Project Memoirs from the Hard Shoulder: bASeman's Spot of the Year award.

[Parky]

Cort is right, a decoke can make a car feel like it has an extra 15bhp. With a better carb it will feel like a different car

[BorniteIdentity]

Does it actually need a new cam?

Aye. I know very little about engines, but you can see that it’s time for a new one. It’s very worn.

 

Totting up the parts like camshaft, headset. new seals. carburettor, clutch it’s gonna be expensive. I dare say it’d be as cheap to buy a broken Mondeo or Escort and shove a zetec and 5spd box in. You can see why some of them have gone that way. Same price, improved reliability and efficiency.

[Captain Furious]

I would say while the head is off it is worth having hardened valve seats fitted. Unless it already has them of course. Valve seat regression from unleaded petrol happens faster than you might expect.

[DodgeRover]

Cam standard £60? Tuned £150?

Head set £20

Cambelt and tensioner £50?

Head bolts £15?

Carb FOC from Dan

Clutch plate only £60

 

Doesn't seem too bad going the other way a buggered type 9 is £250...loads of money to recon it.

Running Zetec donor £300? Plus you'll need to buy bits to get it into the Sierra.

[dozeydustman]

This is one of the instances when IMO the car should be left stock. TBH I didn't even know about the grey grille Sierra until I joined this forum. How many left? A handful, dozen? If you're going to upgrade it then bin the VV carb and put a decent single or twin-choke unit on there.

 

Let the SCENEYO! boys do the modding, there's plenty of them. Using Dodge's guesstimated prices man maths equates to less than a Zetec conversion without the buggering about getting the thing to fit. Pintos are decent engines provided the top end isn't clattering. How fucked is the 1.6 in there?

[BorniteIdentity]

Just for assurances, there was no danger of modz yo. Just a thought that all this buggering around might be a bit futile. I’d not, personally, see a 1600 zetec on carb as a modification - just a relatively sensible plan considering the cost. However, the pinto will remain.

 

I am going to buy a new Weber so, all in, we’re looking at a not inconsiderable amount of money. It’s a difficult time with Santa needing subsidising so it might need to go on the back burner. That said, I might just stick it on the slate and deal with the bill in the future.

[fordperv]

This is one of the instances when IMO the car should be left stock.

 

Let the SCENEYO! boys do the modding, there's plenty of them.

Never a truer word on the internet

[danthecapriman]

Just for assurances, there was no danger of modz yo. Just a thought that all this buggering around might be a bit futile. I’d not, personally, see a 1600 zetec on carb as a modification - just a relatively sensible plan considering the cost. However, the pinto will remain.

I am going to buy a new Weber so, all in, we’re looking at a not inconsiderable amount of money. It’s a difficult time with Santa needing subsidising so it might need to go on the back burner. That said, I might just stick it on the slate and deal with the bill in the future.

A new Weber is the best option imho. It’s done a world of good on my Transit, it’s totally transformed it’s running.

I’d still heavily recommend getting the unleaded inserts done at this time though while the heads off. It won’t do anything for power etc etc but it’ll mean no more additives and possible valve seat damage. I’m going to do the Transit the next time I’ve got an excuse to take the head off.

[DodgeRover]

What weber is going on it? The Chinese knock off ones seem a bargain compared to what is being asked for worn out old stuff - if you can jet them correctly.

Not sure what carb will fit the stock manifold either sorry.

[danthecapriman]

What weber is going on it? The Chinese knock off ones seem a bargain compared to what is being asked for worn out old stuff - if you can jet them correctly.

Not sure what carb will fit the stock manifold either sorry.

One of these I imagine? http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=740

 

Just standard single choke replacements. I’ve got similar ones on both my Capri and Transit. You can get them cheaper elsewhere though.

[Noel Tidybeard]

a 1600 GT also had a bunch of bananas fannymold

[greengartside]

 

Just popped up on my Farcebook feed. Sierra of unknown trim down at Whip Street Motors in Bramford near Ipswich (I think this is at the ‘pit’, would Trig be able to clarify this?) - bonus Orion too.

 

Be quick as these are usually gone within a day or two. I think the number is 01473 830719.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

A quick question here for all Pintosaurus anoraks.

 

I'm lead to believe that simply putting a 2.0 cam in a 1.6 head is, effectively, what the old 1600GT was.  Can anyone confirm this, and that it's a good idea?  It seems silly to be buying a new cam and not take up the option of extra horsies.

 

Ta.

 

 

Yes. The 2000 and 1600GT cams are the same. The 1600 head is more efficient as it has smaller ports - the 2.0 ports are too big as Dave Vizard found out. A 2.0 cam has more lift and endurance so it'll add 5 bhp and rev a bit better. You don't need new head bolts, they aren't stretch bolts. Defo lap the valves in and replace the stem seals. 

 

 

Cam kit:  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-CORTINA-CAPRI-SIERRA-2-0-OHC-PINTO-CAMSHAFT-KIT-WITH-FOLLOWERS-CAM-LUBE-/271984107691

[DodgeRover]

Later bolts are stretch bolts aren't they? - the head type (Torqs or star) is the give away which type they are, that being said I reused my last ones. you don't do the usual torque till yield business though so i wasnt worried

[fordperv]

Spline bolts (early) are reusable and torx (later) are stretch so replace

[dozeydustman]

 

Just popped up on my Farcebook feed. Sierra of unknown trim down at Whip Street Motors in Bramford near Ipswich (I think this is at the ‘pit’, would Trig be able to clarify this?) - bonus Orion too.

 

Be quick as these are usually gone within a day or two. I think the number is 01473 830719.

 

 

An Orion is not a bonus, more a booby prize

[Guest Hooli]

I liked Onions, they drove better than escrotes as the proper shape put the balance further rearward & helped the arse out on lowered examples.

[dozeydustman]

I liked Onions, they drove better than escrotes as the proper shape put the balance further rearward & helped the arse out on lowered examples.

 

 

Yes they were a better car than the 'scrote, handled and rode a lot smoother because of the longer tail. IMO compared to period competition, they were less roomy if you were big or tall, they weren't as refined a car to drive as a Rover SD3, Belmont or 309; and being the sort of chod my friends and I bought in the late 90's as our first wheels, not as reliable nor as long lasting bodywise or mechanically, though this may purely be due to poor maintenance on the part of my chums.

 

Fords RWD cars were always good cars (a few exceptions); great range of engines, slick gearboxes and predictable RWD handling.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

The Onion was only ever slightly cheaper than a similar Sierra. The Sierra was, after a few early glitches, a solid and well designed car that drove very well with ride and handling that was better than a lot of German prestige toss. Really, in the mid eighties a 2.0 Sierra GL or similar (Laser, LX etc) was a lot of car for the dollar.

 

The Orion was a biscuit tin in comparison, like the Escort.

[Captain Furious]

I like Orions too, had two of them as my 2nd and 3rd cars. An E reg red 1.4L I bought off my dad and a G reg 90 spec mercury grey 1.6i Ghia (EFi no less) afterwards. The 1.6i was quite a tasty motor when I got it, by the days standards it could get a move on. Then I had a recon gearbox fitted, they fitted a box out of a 1.6 carb version which has a higher final drive and it really, really blunted the performance and ruined it. I did try to source another inj box for it but ultimately never got round to it.

 

In my mind, I’d like a Mk1 1.6i Ghia now, in reality I never would because I’ve done the meet your heroes thing before and it was a massive let down.

[fordperv]

The orion is a lovely looking car,

Had a black 16i ghia when I was 17 on L plates and loved it, the insurance was cheap as chips as well compared to the xr3i

 

This ones from a meet, a chap approached me to get a couple of pictures of his orion and my saph togetger

[BorniteIdentity]

I’ve noticed myself struggling to see in the old Avensis of late. Collecting an eBay purchase the other night was quite difficult at times; I put it down to it being a particularly dark night, every other motorist having new modern lights and me being absolutely knackered.

 

However.

 

The wife has just pulled out in it and the rear lamps are also notably darker than (I think) usual. The car runs well, and there are no current signs of any other maladies.

 

Thoughts? I’m immediately thinking that the alternator might be beginning it’s declaration. What’s the best way to test? Across the battery or at the bulbs?

 

Cheers for any help.

[Timewaster]

Engine running you want to see a good 14v across the battery.

Try turning some power hungry things on, hrw, headlights, heater blower and other things that might begin with h, see if the volts stay stable or plummet.

[mrbenn]

- Check across the battery first with the engine off to make sure that is ok, should be 12.6 - 12.8v ish if its fully charged.

 

- Start the car, should see around 14 volts or so across the terminals. Then put some load on it - heated window, headlights, heater and check the charge rate isn't falling off.

 

ETA: beaten to it!

[BorniteIdentity]

One other thing. The indicator stalk is on its way out. Indicating left requires a couple of attempts or a slow and purposeful pull.

 

Same stalk also turns on the lights.

 

Coincidence? I have a replacement ready to fit but I never cba to do it for reluctanfe to have an airbag go off in my face Alan Partridge style (!)

[Timewaster]

- Check across the battery first with the engine off to make sure that is ok, should be 12.6 - 12.8v ish if its fully charged.

 

- Start the car, should see around 14 volts or so across the terminals. Then put some load on it - heated window, headlights, heater and check the charge rate isn't falling off.

 

ETA: beaten to it!

I say great minds think alike.

 

My Mrs says fools seldom differ.

[mrbenn]

One other thing. The indicator stalk is on its way out. Indicating left requires a couple of attempts or a slow and purposeful pull.

 

Same stalk also turns on the lights.

 

Coincidence? I have a replacement ready to fit but I never cba to do it for reluctanfe to have an airbag go off in my face Alan Partridge style (!)

 

I've had a knackered light stalk operate the headlamps but not the tail lights so I guess it's plausable!

 

Shouldn't need to disturb the airbag to fit a new stalk.

[BorniteIdentity]

I've had a knackered light stalk operate the headlamps but not the tail lights so I guess it's plausable!

 

Shouldn't need to disturb the airbag to fit a new stalk.

The wheel needs to come off. I even checked the internet and everything. Garage sadly confirmed.

 

No biggy. It will need going soon enough so I should just stop ignoring it tbh!

[mrbenn]

The wheel needs to come off. I even checked the internet and everything. Garage sadly confirmed.

 

No biggy. It will need going soon enough so I should just stop ignoring it tbh!

 

Ah. That's a bugger.

[Angrydicky]

Blimey. Read the title and immediately thought the engine must have started knocking or smoking. To discover it was only a minor electrical fault pleased me no end.

You tease, you.