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Project Capri. Wiring loom. pg.35.

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#991 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 16 August 2018 - 10:31 PM

I did find one online somewhere at one of those replica number plate and sticker places but can’t find it now. I’ll have a look later see if I can find one.
1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#992 OFFLINE   fordperv

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Posted 17 August 2018 - 10:17 AM

Dmb make replica window stickers, you now have to send your v5 to them for number plates, if anyone doesn't want to send theirs to them I can supply you with an email address of another place that makes them
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Sir slidealot, knight of the roundabout

#993 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 11:41 PM

My word, it’s been a while since I’ve updated this thread.

I’ll be honest! I’ve done virtually nothing. It’s been sat in the garage gathering dust.
I got to the point of finishing the brake pipes, that went a bit wrong annoyingly and I got frustrated so left it. Then other things came up and I’ve just ignored the Capri since as winter turned up and that’s always a depressing sack of shit for me and not car fixing weather.

Mojo has been returning of late though. I’ve bought a few small bits and bobs I needed so I’ll have them to hand when I start again.
The problem with the brake pipes is still as I left it... basically, I used my original long front to rear pipe (factory original pipe) as a pattern for the new copper one. Bent it to shape, exactly! Took ages to gently feed it into the car. Which was a twat because it’s so long, and I didn’t want any scratched paint. It also runs awkwardly through the engine bay then down the transmission tunnel (above the fucking prop, so I had to drop that and its mounts to get it in properly) then got to the end near where it joins to the rear brakes pipes etc and...
... it’s too FUCKING short!! By about an inch.
I was so angry I was on the cusp of tearing the new pipe out from under the car and putting the shitty original back in. Luckily I stopped myself doing that and gave up instead.
Plan to fix this issue is to cut the new pipe back to where it’s straight, form a new end, then use a pipe joiner section with a new length of pipe from that upto where it joins the rear brakes pipes. It’s not strictly factory where a joint will be but fuck it!

I also had the problem with the heater box. One of my control cables was snapped and I’ve looked everywhere and these are unobtainable! Shit!
Ok, so I then found a used set of cables and switches for a mk1 which given my heater box is the same as a mk1 should fit? Nope! Cables are different lengths.
Much more recently I spotted a rough used complete mk1 heater box on eBay for not much so just bought that based on the fact that I know that part is the same and it can’t hurt to have spare parts if it turns out to be crap. I couldn’t see the cables in the listing pics either.
It turned up one day and on opening it up, it looked pretty good actually! And most importantly it had both its control cables, both of which worked freely.
Took the one I needed off and compared it to my broken one and it’s spot bollock on!! Hoo-fucking-ray!
Swapped them over and oiled them both up to make sure they stay free. So the heater is now finished, and I’ve got another for bits now too.

Other than that, I’ve done a few odd bits to other parts and some painting too. Not much but something.

Anyway, that just brings this up to date and proves I’ve not just given up! Not fully anyway. More progress soon, weather dependant of course...
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1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#994 OFFLINE   fordperv

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 08:43 AM

I can forgive you Dan it's been blooming cold over the past month or so and you really don't want to rush building it back up due to the risk of damage, enjoy and savour it
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#995 OFFLINE   AndySnapper

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 08:53 AM

Do it at the pace that suits your Mojo and circumstances and you will enjoy it more.

 

I'm confident you will achieve a stunning result Dan.

 

Andy


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#996 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 08:55 AM

I can forgive you Dan it's been blooming cold over the past month or so and you really don't want to rush building it back up due to the risk of damage, enjoy and savour it


I don’t mind the cold so much, I work outdoors all year anyway. It’s the relentless rain that kills it for me.
I’ve got the garage, and I can work in the engine bay with the car still in there but anything else the car needs rolling out onto the drive. It’s not properly weather tight yet and I’m not getting it wet! Also, there’s few things worse than rolling around on a soaking wet floor when you’ve got to work under the car!

It’s ‘supposed’ to be dry(er!) this week so I might get the wiring loom out, at least the engine bay section, and keep that handy. At least then if it rains I can get that cleaned up and re-taped on my workbench.
Once that’s done I can install it and then begin building everything else back into the engine bay. The loom needs to go in first though as it’s runs are under most other things.
If it’s dry on the weekend I’ll roll it out and try to finish the brake lines.
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1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#997 OFFLINE   nigel bickle

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 10:08 AM

Put the glass in. Dry job, from above, and will help dry it out.
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#998 OFFLINE   Christine

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 10:51 AM

When it gets a bit warmer the copper pipe will expand and it will be long enough . .. :-P


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#999 OFFLINE   fordperv

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 11:07 AM

I don’t mind the cold so much, I work outdoors all year anyway. there’s few things worse than rolling around on a soaking wet floor when you’ve got to work under the car!


Same here I am happy to work in the cold as long as its dry, I hate getting soggy pants, also the pissing down rain seems to make the simplest job take 27 times longer
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#1000 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 03:24 PM

Put the glass in. Dry job, from above, and will help dry it out.


All the glass is actually back in. It’s just lacking most other stuff like rubbers for doors and tailgate, they’re on loose but not properly. Screen wipers aren’t in properly or sealed. Door glass rubbers not in yet. There’s various holes around too where the bungs etc aren’t in yet. Plus I’ve still not finished the wax rust proofing and I won’t risk it getting wet without it!

When it gets a bit warmer the copper pipe will expand and it will be long enough . .. :-P


I hate you!!
1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#1001 OFFLINE   Timewaster

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 06:24 PM


Is there any chance you could tighten some of the angles Dan?

When I worked in the spares place we made brake pipes to the customers pattern, I always made them a good few inches longer as they never get the bends as tight as the original and no one ever complained they were too long.

The customer who had a front to rear pipe for a Princess made up was the angriest I've ever seen anyone when he brought it back having threaded it all the way from master cylinder to the rear wheel to discover I had put the nut on backwards!

Being told if he had left it on the car we could have lent him a tool to reflare it in situ didn't help either.
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#1002 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 10:36 PM

Is there any chance you could tighten some of the angles Dan?
When I worked in the spares place we made brake pipes to the customers pattern, I always made them a good few inches longer as they never get the bends as tight as the original and no one ever complained they were too long.
The customer who had a front to rear pipe for a Princess made up was the angriest I've ever seen anyone when he brought it back having threaded it all the way from master cylinder to the rear wheel to discover I had put the nut on backwards!
Being told if he had left it on the car we could have lent him a tool to reflare it in situ didn't help either.


Haha! I can sympathise with that mans fury though!
On the Capri it leaves the master cylinder and drops down the bulkhead, then there’s a series of bends to get it to follow the shapes of the bulkhead, heel board bit then the floor/chassis. I can probably try to make the curves sharper but it’s bad for access, unless I take the whole length of piping out again. Which I’m loath to do now, it was a real bastard to get it in!
The other concern I’ve got tightening the curved bits is accidentally overdoing it and kinking the pipe. If I do that I’m screwed and will probably have to start again.
I’ve got a hand held flare tool and a new pipe joiner with the right ends so while the fuel tank etc is all still out access isnt too bad to add a section in.

I’ll have a look though before doing anything and see if I can try to stretch it out a bit. I know how I left it last year I was getting pissed off so maybe I just threw the towel in without rethinking it first. Best doing that though than losing it and carrying on doing a shit job!
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1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
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#1003 OFFLINE   JoeyEunos

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 07:43 PM

Meh, I've done very little over the last couple of months, like you say when the weather's so crap it's hard to find your mojo really.

 

Building this beauty back up is going to be lots of fun and really rewarding so saving it until it's warm out and you can actually enjoy the process is the angle I'd be looking at it from.


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#1004 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 12:04 AM

Don't know about the south coast but up in Bristol it's being pleasantly warm! At least warm enough from what it has been that my now thicker blood thinks it's warm.

I was out yesterday and it was quite usable weather. Especially if you're doing stuff inside the car, once you get moving it warms up quickly.

Oh and by the end of the month, the sunsets nearly at 6pm down here!
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#1005 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 09:14 AM

Don't know about the south coast but up in Bristol it's being pleasantly warm! At least warm enough from what it has been that my now thicker blood thinks it's warm.
I was out yesterday and it was quite usable weather. Especially if you're doing stuff inside the car, once you get moving it warms up quickly.
Oh and by the end of the month, the sunsets nearly at 6pm down here!


To be fair to it, it has been ok here the last week or so. Yesterday was like a spring day! Trouble is I was working.
Before this week though it’d been awful, wet and windy.

I think, if it’s dry this weekend I’ll push it out of the garage and try to get something done. From memory the interior sound deadening sheets are about ready to be stuck in, at least in the main cabin area. I think I’ve still got some waxing to do in the boot.
I’ll dig out the engine bay wiring loom today too if I get time. Once that’s cleaned and re-taped it can go back in. Once it’s in I can start throwing all the other engine bay bits back in too. Which shouldn’t take long!
I’m keen to get the engine running ASAP too. It’s been some years since it last ran.
1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#1006 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 30 March 2019 - 11:28 PM

Ok, so today I finally did something to the actual car, not just bits & bobs on the bench.
It’s been lovely today, so this afternoon/evening I’ve made a restart on the brakes.

Regulars might remember I pretty much finished on this last year at a low point by doing a job I utterly hate. Brake pipes!
I’ve never liked doing these, but on this it’s a case of replacing the whole lot of them. None of the old ones were good enough to go back onto the car so it was a case of buying a new kit for the car, bending them all up and fitting them. It doesn’t quite go like that when it comes to actually doing the job of course!
Basically it ended last year with the front - rear pipe not being long enough so I got mad and gave up.

Today’s job was going to be something simple but that I could do and finish and then say ‘great, that’s done’ and finish on a positive. Then maybe next time I work on the car I’ll feel better about it!?

So, since I’ve got all the parts on the bench, all painted and ready to go I decided I’d get the front brakes fitted and finished. Easy.

E623CF49-B7E7-43A1-B0A2-EADF3ADEC9EB.jpeg

Everything gathered together from my workbench, tools assembled and ready to go! Callipers were reconditioned just before the car came off the road so they’ve just had a good clean and coat of vht paint. Hoses, the two stubby pipes, pad fitting kit, locking tabs etc - all new, I even bought new lock nuts and star washers for the brake hoses. The only things I’ve reused were the discs and pads, these being almost new when the car came off the road too so I kept them and they’re easily good enough to reuse.
The reason for the old sponge? You’ll see later in another pic!

12C53F35-E225-415E-BBD6-EC5C39B09C6F.jpeg

BB81964D-00A2-4583-8A70-034B0961740F.jpeg

I didn’t get any pics of it ‘in progress’ but here’s the finished article on one side. Everything went together beautifully, it’s so nice to work on this car as it’s so clean you don’t even need gloves to do stuff like this! There’s not a single speck of dirt, dust, rust, nothing!
There was a slight issue however. The copper stubby brake pipes turned out to be slightly wrong...
They come pre shaped with unions and flares ready done in either metric or imperial. I tried the threads on mine and needed Imperial so bought those. However when trying to fit this to the new flexi hoses the Imperial unions wouldn’t fit!
They needed metric threads! God knows how it’s ended up happening but I’ve got Imperial threaded callipers with metric hoses so I had to cut back the new stubby pipes, remove one of the imperial unions, replace it with a metric, then remake the appropriate flares! It’s worked fine but I don’t know how it’s ended up like that as the new hoses are identical to the old ones and the callipers are the same. Unless it’s always been like this and I’ve just never noticed? Either way it’s now sorted!
The old pads were cleaned up, regreased and fitted in place with new pins, R clips, springs and squeal plates.

E811BF9C-B356-42DB-9C03-CE90FA2E5454.jpeg

Other side - exactly the same.

EB5BA69F-B6D5-404C-B8AA-FF98E00ACC37.jpeg

Inside the engine bay showing the way the hoses come through the inner wing and bolt onto the new pipes.

The front brakes are now finished with the exception of brake fluid. Can’t do that until the rears are done!

I spent a bit of time today while doing the brakes checking stuff under the wings and also painted a few odd bolts/nuts etc that had been missed during assembly of various things. I’ve been painting them all as I’ve been going so nothing looks half arsed or is allowed to be left bare steel and go rusty. It’d look shit otherwise!
Here’s a few pics of the underside at the front and how clean the inner wings etc are! They look absolutely superb!

B933CC1E-38C1-4432-85D6-0C9DCA56AF68.jpeg

993D3CA4-851A-42FF-B95B-2C9E68FE0641.jpeg

FE065DC6-0538-4241-9CFB-30D246BA5746.jpeg

Inner wings and struts/springs.

073433AD-379D-4B81-9AE5-CDD6AE78324F.jpeg

Inner wing where it joins the outer wing at the front with the headlamp bowl. This is normally a bad rot spot on a Capri as all the road dirt and water get flung up into this area.

2170952E-4517-47C8-83A4-34BAEF5BAE9A.jpeg

Inner wing/A post/heel board area, shows the black non original splash shields in place to stop the A posts and inner sill ends rotting in future.
Also shows why I needed that old sponge! Yes, it’s to cushion the trolley jack and stop any marks on my underside!!

0D94FC8F-985E-4492-BCD4-1F28384D975B.jpeg

Finally the underside of the engine and front end.
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1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#1007 OFFLINE   AndySnapper

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 09:09 AM

That car is looking so good now Dan  :happydance:


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#1008 OFFLINE   eddyramrod

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 09:26 AM

It certainly is!


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#1009 OFFLINE   Christine

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 10:00 AM

Top marks for the sponge...nothing worse than a scratched trolley jack ..

 

I want a brake pipe flare tool , what one have you got ? Is it good ?


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#1010 OFFLINE   JuridicalGrunt

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 10:21 AM

ive been meaning to catch up with this,it looks amazing i love the colour.  keep up the good work!


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#1011 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 10:50 AM

Top marks for the sponge...nothing worse than a scratched trolley jack ..
 
I want a brake pipe flare tool , what one have you got ? Is it good ?


Yeah I’ve spent a fortune on that trolley jack, it’s like my favourite child I look after it so much! I’d be beside myself if anything ever happened to it!


The brake flare tool ive got is this one https://www.ebay.co....ogAAMXQfFJRQaMI

It’s cheap and looks a bit wank but it works well for what it is. I was going to buy an expensive vice mounted one but for how much I use it V’s the cost decided against it. Plus, these ones being hand held means you can use it to flare pipes still on the car if you need to. I’ve even done a steel pipe on a BMW 3 series with it before (the stupid rear pipe that goes up under the fuel tank and is a twat to remove!) and it flared the steel pipe perfectly.
I wouldn’t probably use it for professional use but at home now and again it’s perfect.

I also have one of these https://www.ebay.co....80AAOSwNXtcNML1
For cutting the pipe, small and easy to use. You still need to file the cut ends down to get a really good flare but it’s better than a hacksaw.
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1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#1012 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 11:52 AM

Having a go at the rear brakes today.

Jobs to do here:
*Come up with a way of extending the front - rear pipe. At the moment it’s a few inches short.
*Fit rear flexi hose.
*Fit short ‘pig tail’ pipe to link flexi hose to first rear wheel cylinder.
*make up and fit final rear brake pipe across the rear axle linking both rear wheel cylinders.

First up then, I’ve got the new rear flexi hose fitted. There’s two little brackets, one on the underside of the bodyshell and the other on the axle.

D64AE627-1535-4F32-A68E-AAD552A301A5.jpeg

Then the ‘pig tail’ pipe. I don’t think it’s actually called that! I just named it that to identify it!
This fits ok, but I still need to fit the wheel cylinder this side and then bend the end of this pipe at a slight angle so it lines up with the cylinders union.

37C1F01C-5CD6-47D7-A05D-9B460122424A.jpeg

The next stage will be to extend the front - rear pipe.
Here you can see how short it is.

E234BC81-FFC8-45CF-93FE-29894F62F861.jpeg

I think my best option here is just to fit a brake line joiner adapter. The original pipe had one right in the middle, but I think I’ll just put mine close to this end somewhere and make up a new longer end section to make up the length. I’ve got a new joiner and pair of unions so I’ll just have a go.
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1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#1013 OFFLINE   mitsisigma01

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 12:01 PM

Looks like you could eat yer dinner off that. Mega clean
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#1014 OFFLINE   Skizzer

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 05:57 PM

What a joy it must be to work on a car that you’ve already got all clean and non-rusty! I’d say I was jealous if it wasn’t for knowing you’ve been through a lengthy, costly and very stressful process to get here.

Oh, and if that’s not called a pig tail pipe it should be. And is now.
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#1015 OFFLINE   nigel bickle

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 06:52 PM

Hell- working on that must be really scary!

One slip of the spanner on that paintwork and you’ll have to start all over again.
Or have you got a secret touch up tin & a really small badgers hair brush?

Seriously Dan, bob on mate.
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#1016 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 07:45 PM

Is the pig tail pipe usually like that?

Is it secured at all?

Looks to me like vibration will eventually cause it to shear at the back plate if left as is.

Would also put the joiner close to securing tabs. Directly over the leaf spring bolt in the photo looks good, tab on both sides.


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#1017 OFFLINE   JoeyEunos

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 08:02 PM

That's looking incredible, cleaner underneath than most cars are up top! Properly inspirational stuff.

 

It looks like things are really coming together now, fingers crossed you'll be out driving this and reaping the rewards of the time and energy you've invested by he summer.


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#1018 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 08:54 PM

Cheers guys!

Believe it or not, it’s a pleasure to work on it in many respects. There’s absolutely no dirt, grime, rust, oil, underseal - nothing whatsoever anywhere! It’s so easy to do stuff because everything is so clean and absolutely nothing is seized. Today, I was laying under this doing the work wearing a nice pair of jeans and my best sweatshirt! And I’m still clean!
On the other hand though, like Nigel said, one slip of the spanner...
You do have to take much more care what you’re doing with everything. My heart was in my mouth when I was doing up the lock nuts for the front brake hoses. They go through those nicely painted inner wings and the spanner jaws were a gnat’s cock away from the paint! Even carrying stuff near the car takes extra precautions.

Is the pig tail pipe usually like that?
Is it secured at all?
Looks to me like vibration will eventually cause it to shear at the back plate if left as is.
Would also put the joiner close to securing tabs. Directly over the leaf spring bolt in the photo looks good, tab on both sides.


Believe it or not, yes, that’s more or less how they go. I thought exactly the same as you though, that curly pipe is very prone to vibration damage. It’s a close copy of the factory original though.
Here’s another pic of some other Capri with the same thing.
https://images.app.g...KctJJH9bwPjjw4A

I might try and find some way of supporting it better though? All the rest of the brake lines still have their factory tangs to support them and they’re all nice and tight.
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#1019 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 09:00 PM

Fair enough, can't argue with Ford.


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#1020 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 10:05 PM

Got the brake pipes almost finished this afternoon.
First I needed to clip the long front - rear pipe into place along the rearmost end of the chassis. With that secure, I could attach the new joining piece. I’ve put this right on the very end of the too short front - rear pipe. Reason being, is: A, it’s easier! And B, there’s two of the factory tangs attached to the side of the chassis right next to it, so it’ll be as secure as it possibly can be.
Then I just offered up a short length of brake pipe, cut and bent it to length/shape, slid on the two new unions and flared a female flare onto both ends. It fits perfectly so I’ve tightened it up and tidied everything up so it looks the part.

34ACCB69-94D8-4C85-8197-5097C7CF113D.jpeg

1D7D2C16-EBFA-4AF3-8ED3-0C467AB28E3C.jpeg

The next step was dig out the new rear wheel cylinders, check the unions on all the pipes do actually fit them! Which they do.
The wheel cylinders on this car are actually not the usual mk2 parts. Because this car is such an early one it’s still using many mk1 bits, the axle/brakes being one of them so everything here is mk1 stuff. These cylinders are the old single acting type, whereas a normal mk2 or 3 should use the more recognisable double acting type.
The curled up pipe in this pic is the final one that connects both the rear wheel cylinders together and runs across the rear axle.

8F27B272-9F58-4478-A8F4-402C7AF64F87.jpeg

4303CC57-2177-4A2E-A280-12322D06C99F.jpeg

To get this on I bent it straight, measured the length and marked its centre. The centre point can go on directly behind the securing tab on the rear axle, right above the diff. It was a bit tight to bend it to shape and feed it around the anti roll bar but it’s finally on and in place. It will only go on in one shape and position. Once in place I’ve tapped the securing tabs down onto the pipe to secure it permanently.
I didn’t have the original pipe for this one though so I had to just do it from pics on the web and my best guess/memory.

EC83CA4C-EDDC-47B1-9732-DC9D09CEC532.jpeg

64D49F9F-ED69-4D03-9300-A6ABE1D0FDED.jpeg

Here all the pipes are on and in place, I’ve just curled the ends of the axle pipe up out the way for now so they don’t rub on the wheels.
Tomorrow’s job is to refit all the drum brakes, once that’s done I’ll bend the axle pipes ends down and attach them to the wheel cylinders. Then that’s the brakes done, apart from refilling with fluid and bleeding them up.

EF1B83DB-83FE-41EE-92E0-19F96B671B5D.jpeg

Finally, here’s a shot of the underside at the back end, looking forward. Mega clean!

0058FC45-B5D9-4D82-BD67-5B34F2784BBC.jpeg
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