Like the autoshite-priced storage/prep/spray bay, I wonder if 7 months continuous exposure to UV is about where many cheaper quality tents would start falling apart?
I'll use an etch primer whererever possible, but zinc ones seem less reactive with existing paint layers. Single biggest thing with old Cits isn't to apply layers too generously, given the sharp edges and thin panels, for both longevity and appearance.
Great to see more progress, this Ami will be unlike any other when finished!
7 months before it literally disintegrated was something I hadn't expected from a brand like Kampa. These tents are a whole lot of money when new. Nevertheless, in most people's typical holiday use, of a month camping a year.. then 7 years would, I guess, be quite reasonable lifespan for something modern.
Interestingly it wasn't just the top panels which fell apart, but equally the north-facing end / door panel which was always in the shade. It was as if exposure to the air itself caused its failure, rather than direct UV.
Yes.. very much so.. the chipping of paint off the very thin edges is a great problem ..as are the numerous spire clips, and also the doubled up panels, giving ever more sharp edges where the paint just loves to chip off. Unless you can suggest better, the best I can do is to clean up the scabby edges and apply the cold galvanizing directly to the edges and in between the doubled parts. .
" Great to see more progress, this Ami will be unlike any other when finished! "
Thanks to the first part of the sentence, not sure how to take the latter half though.
Unfortunately I can't get the finish I want to achieve on the paint work. The paint I'm using is supposedly the same as worked well for me when I repainted the boat, but Hemple reformulated the paint 2 years ago and I'm now having difficulties with it. I've
also learnt am learning (the hard way) that painting the soft curves of a boat's deck and coachroof is very different to all the hard edges found in car panels.
And only in re-working the front wings did I realise their numerous surfaces - most convex but one or two are almost flat, and then the top-side as it approaches the top of the doors - makes a transition from convex to concave. Of course with every change in plane there's another edge to try and get right. And some of these fade out and two or more surfaces blend together become one. It's remarkably subtle yet complicated..
I must confess to getting sidetracked into a detail which bugged me, but if commons sense had prevailed I should probably have ignored, as when fitted it would hardly be seen . .
^ work in progress.. an interesting twist in the flange to create (which Citroen hadn't bothered with).
Anyway.. a day of my life lost to achieving something that, in retrospect, really didn't warrant half that amount of time.. Have to move on..
. . . well I would do ..if I could get the sodding lid off the (brand new) paint . .
Hand painting (with roller and tipping brush) car panels as convoluted a shape as this is.. not recommended. Next time I'll know better and take it to a paint shop to get it sprayed.. In fact I'll probably end up doing that with this car anyways, as I honestly don't think I can afford the time to do this to the standard I'd be happy with . .
So there we are, the front left wing and the front panel now have their first coat of 2-pack. I need to do the inside of the front panel yet, which has been cleaned and prepped, and has the rear right (grp) wing, which has been until now in epoxy primer.
Unfortunately the front right wing needs rubbing back down again as the paint bubbled. Not blisters but tiny bubbles within the paint, which seems to be related to the hardener ..the last of which I threw away because it was full of bubbles when stirred in the tin.
That's all for tonight. Very slowly making progress in these high temperatures. .