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Moogs Motahs - sinking the seat


The Moog

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Would that not flag up code light? Hadnt thought to scan it. Will do that tomorrow to see if anything pops up

It didn't in the presidential Renner. Just poor mpg. Until MOT time when its hydrocarbons were 6 times the permissible limit. That was when the sensors came in for scrutiny. If the upstream one is not reading, the ecu assumes the worst and massively overfuels to avoid an overlean fuel air mix that would heat up the cylinder head too much. Of course the cat can suffer as a result, but in the Renner's case I got to it in time.

 

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Its weird, sometimes with an Auto a 3.0ltr can give the same mpg as a 1.6.

Well that's one I tell myself when I'm in the S430

I think that's often because those big engined cars have a much better gearbox than the smaller engines. Better in that they have torque converter lockup in lower gears and they use it more often. Also more gears for efficiency.

 

I know the AW55 in my old Laguna and Saab 9-5 would lock up in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Also as the engines have more torque and power, so they don't have to change gear as often. Changing gear means lockup disengaging and so losses in the fluid during the shifting process. Being more advanced boxes and engines, they often do other clever stuff too. Like the AW55 deliberately slipping when changing to smoothen and quicken the changes.

 

Once a gearbox has gone into lockup, the engine drive is directly coupled through the gearing. Hence no hydraulic losses, that usually make them suffer.

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I think that's often because those big engined cars have a much better gearbox than the smaller engines. Better in that they have torque converter lockup in lower gears and they use it more often. Also more gears for efficiency.

 

I know the AW55 in my old Laguna and Saab 9-5 would lock up in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Also as the engines have more torque and power, so they don't have to change gear as often. Changing gear means lockup disengaging and so losses in the fluid during the shifting process. Being more advanced boxes and engines, they often do more clever stuff too. Like the AW55 deliberately slipping when changing to smoothen and quicken the changes.

 

Once a gearbox has gone into lockup, the engine drive is directly coupled through the gearing. Hence no hydraulic losses, that usually make them suffer.

The revs to speed difference between my old gooners 5 speed autobox and the new gooners 6 speed manual is pretty similar, which surprised me a bit.

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Is best way to check sensors by reading them with OBD2 and see if they are switching?

 

I reset the trip computer so will get a real reading, but I don't think it is far off.

 

I would expect the mpg to be more like 26-27 ish. As said these aren't massive frugal. Focus and the civic both with 1.6 autos got about that .

 

Shame she doesn't want her old Saab back (too big) that was miles better.

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Check the running temp too. When the Nippa's temp sensor was duff, it was running over-rich as the ECU didn't think the engine was up to temp.

It gets warm (about a third on temp gauge). Hadn't thought about thermostat. Will see how easy that is to change.
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Decided to quickly change the thermostat last night before going out.

 

One of those jobs that should take 5 minutes right. Except it was being done by torchlight.

 

Airbox lid off.

 

c83e46dae471cc9bc8f0c34b44f83873.jpg

 

Next a 15 minute battle to get the bottom bit out. There was a hidden bolt at the back which was a pig to get at.

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Finally accessed the thermostat.

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Access was shit so the battery was off next. acf1d652eee477b88fcedc857caefc93.jpg

 

After that it was pretty straight forward.

 

Next up was plugs - were a little skanky

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Air filter was a bit manky as well

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Aside from driving the car after not topping up the coolant all seems well. Will see if it effects the mpgs

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  • 2 weeks later...

So took the getz up to Scotland for the weekend.

 

On the way up doing 75mph the mpg said 26.4.

 

I had left a bottle of cataclean at Moog in laws house so lobbed that in. Return trip said 30.2 on way home which was an improvement.

 

I also did a brim to brim calc and used 39.5l for 300miles.

 

Doing sums that comes in at around 34 mpg - which is probably rightish for this.

 

Are these computers that far off?

 

Edit: I wonder if it is doing it in US? The temp is on farenheit for outside temp.

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Scanned the 02 sensors a38b3db24dca55a5f298df362d03f026.jpg

 

I think this might be the problem.

 

I unplugged the sensor under the heat shield and that flatlined the first sensor. So definitely will be the one in the exhaust

 

Hunting for the parts is a bit of a pain as they seems to flag up the first precat sensor - not the exhaust one.

 

Edit: ignore that found some on ebay

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  • 2 weeks later...

As the weather wasn't too bad I decided to have a go at the Puma gearbox mount. I ordered one from eBay (it was very cheap) before Christmas

 

 

The issue is that with a lower front strut brace it knocks. Normally caused by worn engine mounts. As it is coming from gearbox end I thought I would start there.

 

Firstly I had to fix my jack. The little bung has disappeared so just gaffer taped it for now. fc82a20c6e27d8ff953f284f2f9dd99e.jpg

 

In time honoured tradition it was off with battery and battery box to get at the offending article

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Cam cover gasket still needs changing. I used a pattern part last time and it hasn't sealed well.

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And now it is revealed

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Then the fun began. It was a real nightmare to get off. The bolts holding it to the chassis were only accessible a little bit requiring a ratchet spanner and a million turns.

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After about 20 mins the old mount was off. It is really floppy and I could easily twist it. I am sure it has seen better days

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Just a case of reassembly is just putting stuff back isn't it..... Errrr no.

 

First challenge was the new mounts bolt holes were too small.

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After some gentle hammer taps I decided to enlarge them with a drill. No expense spared workshop time

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I stopped taking photos after this.

 

The mount then could be assembled but I couldn't get the bolts that go into the chassis in. After about an hour of swearing I had one in and one partially in. With grumpy missus Moog I called it a night.

 

Will go back and start afresh tomorrow.

 

Putting things away I noticed that part of the reason it isn't that simple is that the lower strut brace is holding the gearbox up. Therefore there isn't enough room to lower it to get easy access to the bolts.

 

Will have another look tomorrow but might have to take the brace off before reassembly of the mount.

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Round two

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Decided that whipping the airbox out might help. c1ccfbdcb43c5fcbecbd12315740b18f.jpg

 

Managed to get the bolt out, cleaned and then back in. Rachet spanners are a god send.

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Not 100% sure about the quality of the mount. The part that bolts to the gearbox mount means threads just reach top of nuts. I think they are meant to protrude bit more.

 

Did them up tight and all seems firm. Worst that can happen is that I have to replace the mount again, now I have the knack.

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All back and in for a test drive.

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Difference to knocking on strut brace... Zero.

 

So choices are 1) replace other two mounts 2) take some metal off the gearbox case 3) ignore it

 

Choosing 3 for now. Will be moving this on in the near future as I have already lined up a replacement.

 

Before then I need to do something about the rust rear arch.

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Can't you spacer the brace with washers or put a dent in it to clear ?

The brace comes off the lower arm bolts so spacers I don't think would work.

 

A dent would :-)

 

Not sure how it would effect its structural integrity

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