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Moogs Motahs - sinking the seat


The Moog

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Started to tackle the mot jobs today.

 

Saab bush ordered on eBay. Then onto the PAS leak.

 

Leftt the car running on a clean bit of concrete, then turned the wheel left to right and back a bit.

 

Moved the car back and no drips or leaks evident.

 

Next - car up in the air to have a look trying

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Couldn't see anything obvious

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Found a cable tie covered in gunk so removed that

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Cleaned everything up

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Still no joy. So a quick call to my knight in dark overalls and he said to bring the Swedish beast over.

 

Before that I slurped some fluid out of the car

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And lobbed some magic fix in

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Tootling over the car started making strange noises. I did the usual checks - does it go when braking?

Does it only happen under accelerating? Does turning make a difference?

Does taking it out of gear make a difference?

Is it linked to engine speed?

 

Answers were no, no ,no no and yes.

 

Popped the bonnet

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Had a hunt around and found the issue

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Hard to see there but the tensioning bolt for the alternator was loose and rubbing against the belts. This was missing a nut

 

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Pushed it back together hoping it would hold. Bonnet down ready to go. Car just clicked. Bugger

 

Quick check and the battery terminal were loose, the negative had popped off.

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Off I set, the alternator held together by hopes and dreams. They lasted all of 500m before the noise started again.

 

Time to get

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No proper tools to hand but inspiration decided that a keyring could be a lock wire

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the glove was previous friction based solution. It wasn't successful. No shit Sherlock.

 

That held perfectly.

 

Njgleeds got it up on the ramp and after a poke about agreed that couldn't find the pas leak. All cleaned up with brake cleaner and dried off.

 

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At the same time we had a poke at the suspension bush. The bolt holding it on looked full of Norwegian chrome.

 

A little tickle with a breaker bar resulted in bolt becoming two bolts.

 

Quick trip to eBay and new secondhand lower wishbone ordered to come next week.

 

 

Mr njgleeds has also prodded me to try a roffle with this rather than a straight sale. So once a MOT has been procured it will be up for roffle.

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I have been trying to find that damn PAS leak since 2012. The best guess I've come up with is that one of the pipes has actually gone slightly porous as it never seems to have come from a single specific source.

 

The central locking is usually provoked into waking up by fiddling with the driver's window. No, I've no idea either. It's done it since I got the car.

 

Bolts for the alternator may well be in the glovebox, I took the belts off when I needed to move the car around after the coolant had been drained as I didn't want to wreck the water pump bearings.

 

Nice to see the rust moths haven't been nibbling too badly. I've not even looked under it since I last had it in for an MOT.

 

Note if you decide to change the ATF - it needs the old school type F fluid, do not put Dex-any-number in it, or the box will be scrap in no time.

 

If this winds up for raffle, you do know I'll feel obligated to enter, even though I've less than nowhere to put it.

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Great Saab update! Would be interesting to compare my Vantman-Holbeck 900 with yours. Mine is also an auto, year younger, lacks a sunroof but is a 16v. I suspect your engine and box combo makes most sense as it’s a bit of an old school 3 speed slogger in these i think. I find it a relaxed old thing to pootle around in.

 

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Well you can do a back to back comparison when you buy a ticket or two Bjorn!

 

Cheers for help Zel. Neil had a spare but so all back together.

 

Underneath as a bit of surface rust and there are some places where it would benefit from a little tickle from the sparkle stick. Overall it is a solid old beast.

 

The sunroof drains have me stumped. They feel truly blocked and coat hanger action doesn't seem to help. It is probably worth dropping the headliner to fix them and do the headlining whilst it is out.

 

Only issue is that they can be very fragile at this age and breaking it will be a pain.

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The 8v engine works far better with the auto box than the 16v in my experience. The 16v is more rev happy, meaning you tend to just get into the power band when it drops a gear unless you've got your foot to the floor.

 

The really fun bit being that due to the gearing, in the mid range the 8v auto is actually quicker than a manual 16v. Much to the surprise of my mate who had said 16v manual when I booted it at about 50 and he found that I basically just left him standing.

 

I just find that it's really well matched to the box and the car in general. Just the lack of overdrive that lets it down. Budget for low 20s mpg in daily use, she'll just about crack 30mpg on a run if you're gentle...but I've found that driving style actually makes relatively little difference in that car (unlike the Activa!).

 

For the sunroof drains, from what I recall they come out down in the wheel arches. Worth trying to blast them clear from the bottom with some compressed air? Thinking about it... they're meant to have rubber boots on to act as one way valves and stop the drains gurgling at speed... they've not just got gunked up have they?

 

She's been a bloody good old motor, and is one that I really do regret having had to sell.

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Said it before but we do live in an amazing age. Payday yesterday so ordered slider pins for the getz and a new caliper for the mx5 from eBay.

 

Both were delivered this morning - can't really beat that.

 

The getz drivers side wheel has been getting hot and squeaking a bit. Starting with simple things and am replacing the sliding pin and boots.

 

Jacked up the getz easily enough. Nice to have a car that isn't lowered or very low (looking at you Saab and mx5)

 

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First challenge - the car has got locking wheel nuts. Not a problem as it came with the box with the key in. Except I chucked it away about a month ago, thinking that I had changed them for normal nuts. Except I hadn't, that was a different car. Idiot boy sometime.

 

Cracked out the undoey tools

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Worked really well

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Discs look ok

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Pads look ok as well

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Caliper up and off

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Pins new and old

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All greased up and back together. Took it for a quick run and the wheel wasn't getting hot so fingers crossed it has fixed things.

 

Mx5 up next. A new shiny caliper was only £40 delivered so pointless rebuilding the old one. I ordered a 1.8 caliper as GM upgraded the brakes when he had the wee beastie. d429c97ed2bec6872525ec0fb9e6e7bf.jpg

 

Plastic bag in master cylinder to minimise fluid loss

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Caliper cracked off

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Then things got a bit complicated. The calipers looked similar but the slider pins on the new one were the opposite way round. So a big slider pin was on the bottom in new caliper versus the top on the old one. Many head scratchings and double checking left me none the wiser.

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Luckily the caliper came with a new carrier so should be the case of whip the old one off and fit shiny new ones.

 

Erm well that was easier said than done. Needed angle grinder, plus gas and then the undoey tools.

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The bolts just rounded but once I managed to get a flat on it I could get it off.

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After asking the scotoshiters I learnt that the 1.8 calipers are different to 1.6 in that the pins are the other way round( which makes sense). Gm should have some replacement bolts he can lob in the post then I need to bleed the car and jobs a good un.

 

 

Current fleet updates

 

Mx5

Needs caliper fitting then bleed the system. Then front drivers pads need fitting. Next money will hopefully roll bar fitted and then track tyres

 

Saab

Needs lower wishbone plus lower shock bushing then in for a retest before being moved on.

 

406

Needs central locking fixing, a new clutch at some point, dents pushing out, full service, probably cambelt, the interior stripping and cleaning, tracking done, winter tyres fitting, a/c regassing and new stereo fitting

 

Rover

Needs m series head or scrapping (joking Neil).

 

Getz

Need rear arches derusted and painted, hoping that brakes are fixed and that's it. Ideally would fit reversing sensors and also a better car aerial as the radio reception is a bit pants.

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ouch, those rusty bolts put up a fight ! I'll rake around the parts box and dig some out for you tomorrow afternoon.

 

Where are you getting calipers at that price from ? I might order a pair of them myself

eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-FRONT-LEFT-BRAKE-CALIPER-FOR-MAZDA-MX-5-I-1-8I-NA-BPF1-1993-1998-/202123656481?txnId=1713469721010

 

I have ordered a driver's side one as well now as for that price is a bit of a no brainer.

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Today has been one of fettling.

 

First up he wee red beastie. New caliper and bolts turned up yesterday but due to lurgy I couldn't start it till today.

 

As I left it

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Shiny things attached

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Fluid attached

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On to second side

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Dugggggggaduggggga all comes apart easily this side

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Got my money's worth

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Copper washers treated

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Bled and shiny

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Pedal feel is still the same. But at least brakes shouldn't be an issue in the future.

 

Onto the other resident. Mr Njgleeds kindly led the way with the mot failure sheet.

 

Up in air

 

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Let's check PAS leak

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Drier than a James Bond martini.

 

Last week in attempting to get the shock bolt off, we managed to shear the locating stud. A secondhand lower wishbone was acquired to fit, along with a new lower bush.

 

The beauty of Saab's is that they are pretty easy to work on. No MacPherson struts but rather double wishbones.

 

Bolts out, arm off, old(new) arm on, bolts tighten

 

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You can see the broken bit on the bottom one.

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Bush lubed and changed then put back together

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Off to MOT and got a lovely new cert

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To celebrate it has come to work with me, I mean a Saab in an educational establishment carpark who would have thought it.

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Saab will be hoovered, cleaned then put up for a premium Swedish roffle.

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Saab is an interesting car - it definitely needs another gear. At 65 ish on the motorway you wait for it to change up but it doesnt happen. 

 

Bimbling along at 50 is nice although wind noise with the window issue is a little intrusive.

 

Drives lovely though, definitely feels a child of the early 80's rather than anything more modern. the seats are comfy but lack any side bolster so any erik carlsson like dreams are shattered as you go sliding off into the middle pretty easily. 

 

If it was a turbo and or 5 speed I think I would probably be holding on to it. 3 speed and non turbo just dont float my boat. 

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I have to admit that I stopped noticing the engine noise at speed after a while, it's proven quite happy to sit at an indicated 75 from one end of the country to the other and back without breaking a sweat. I'm pretty sure that third in that is higher geared than fifth in the Lada...that really does scream a bit at motorway speeds!

 

No space...hence why I sold it...but yes I know I'll end up getting a number anyway...

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My neighbour knocked today and asked if I wanted his ramps.

 

He built them 50 years ago and they have been collecting dust.

 

They are amazing as are really shallow and long and feel like they are made of girders.

 

Perfect for mx5 fettling. ca6a918b613b2a9feafdbedd0f108299.jpg

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In whatever storm is supposedly going on outside, I sensibly* decided to fit the front winter tyres I have.

 

You can see the difference in them

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I also used the tyre alignment gizmo for the first time. Makes fitting the wheel simple

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Only thing to note was that the front left brake disc screw was loose and so might be the occasional rattle I heard. All tightened up

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Few tinkerings this morning

 

First off won a window regulator off eBay for 99p for passenger side on the Saab and found a driver's side NOS for £39 so ordered both. I have also bitten bullet and ordered rear boot struts for £30.

 

So a car I am selling has now cost me another £70..!

 

Sun is out so attacked the rear boot lock on the Saab. These are lovely card to work on as everything is pretty easy to get at and logically designed. Door card is few turn screws and poppers

 

Back of the lock

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Unbolted and removed

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Anti rust gunk then lube soaked into barrel

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Zero joy. I think the keys have worn so much they won't turn the boot barrel.

 

Back together

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Also cleaned and fed the sunroof seals. Car is dry inside which is good.

 

Then onto 406. Back window has been steaming up a bit.

 

Found a little puddle in the boot. I think changing the tyres in the rain meant it got in then.

 

Holes drilled then bare metal painted. Looks like it is bleeding!

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Love little things like this

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406 has a hook to hold open boot floor.

 

The 406 is next in line for serious work once Saab is sold. It needs interior taking out for a proper clean. Sort out driver's door c/l and then pop the sent out if the rear passenger door.

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Quick fettle before work this evening trying to fix c/l issue. It locks then unlocks straight away. If I lock all the other doors manually it still does it so I think it is something to do with drivers door.

 

Popped the doorcard off

 

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This is what I am looking at

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Removed and cleaned the plug into the actuator

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Surprise.... No different.

 

 

 

Someone has been fiddling before as screws missing, the armrest was a bit detached and the ew switch fell apart.

 

Fixed the ew switch with the universal sticking solutions

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Left the c/l disconnected so I can at least lock the door. I think I need to order an actuator then replace it.

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The boot lock has never worked on the key at least back to 2012. Central locking meant I never really bothered looking into it!

 

It's always been easy enough to wake it up by fiddling with the power window controls...

 

Driver's window quite likely can be sorted. It worked perfectly until the one day I was an idiot ant slammed the door while it was moving. Reckon something jumped out of line... hopefully it can be persuaded back into line...

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Some bits arrived for the Saab today, baking in glorious sunshine I cracked on.

 

First up was the boot struts.

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Nice and shiny. As mentioned before c900s are some of the best cars to work on.

To remove the struts you remove a clip and pop them off

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All clipped back on and self sustaining boot action achieved

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Bouyed with success I stripped down the driver's door

 

Unscrew lock button

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Screw removed from interior pull

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Torx screws removed

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Then card off

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Plastic barrier removed

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Unclip weather strip

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Remove window glass

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5 bolts and wiggle the regulator out

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AHH fuck. They are different. Go and read ebay advert - not for electric window. So that is a fail then.

 

Nothing for it but to take reg apart. Motor off

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Then circlips off

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This is the problem

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Three options are available

 

1)repair quadrant but is close to £100

2) add weld then file to match profile

3) take to engineering shop and let them fix it

 

 

Seeing as I bought a welder off GM I thought option 2 would work. Summoning the wisdom of the scotoshiters via WhatsApp I started setting it up.

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Then my next door neighbour stuck his head over the fence. He was a professional welder but retired 20 years ago. Always up for tinkering he came round to help. Sadly the wire kept getting stuck in the liner. We got some through but white powder came out. Looks like I need a new liner.

 

So option 3 will be applied on Monday.

 

To cheer myself up I went over to see Njgleeds new Swedish beast. My word what a car

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Good work man, a step in the right direction.

 

IMO windows that close all the way to the top are one of life's little pleasures.

 

I'm now desperately trying to avoid taking advantage of the 3 for £30 offer and I must admit that the windows were one of the reasons I was using to justify not doing so, aside from having no space or need for an fourth car. A couple of glasses of Islay malt aren't helping either, must resist!

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Spent an interesting morning touring the highways and byways in Blackburn and Burnley talking to engineering shops, fabricators and lasercutters. 

 

This involved a lot of teeth sucking and head shaking.  Simply put they dont want to repair it as it is likely to break again, there fore it is a new one to be built, which people dont want to do without a drawing as the teeth are a pain to get at the right angle and it is only a one off so not worth the effort setting up for it. 

 

All really nice about it, but totally drawn a blank. I am going to just buy a repair quadrant from ebay for £70 and take the hit. It means that the saab will be able to shut both its windows which in turn means it is easier to roffle/sell. This is why I will never make a car dealer! 

 

On positive note I took the MX5 and certainly enjoyed the drive :-) 

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Spent an interesting morning touring the highways and byways in Blackburn and Burnley talking to engineering shops, fabricators and lasercutters. 

 

This involved a lot of teeth sucking and head shaking.  Simply put they dont want to repair it as it is likely to break again, there fore it is a new one to be built, which people dont want to do without a drawing as the teeth are a pain to get at the right angle and it is only a one off so not worth the effort setting up for it. 

 

All really nice about it, but totally drawn a blank. I am going to just buy a repair quadrant from ebay for £70 and take the hit. It means that the saab will be able to shut both its windows which in turn means it is easier to roffle/sell. This is why I will never make a car dealer! 

 

On positive note I took the MX5 and certainly enjoyed the drive :-)

 

Send it to me and I will have a go.

Then when I fuck it up you can order one :)

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