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Moogs Motahs - sinking the seat


The Moog

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Stealth stylz - Matt on RR does the matching welding thing for a living

 

In doncaster

 

I could probably do the dropping off/collecting if it's shitely'd here & back. Might be easier to post but I suspect expensive.

 

Not that I know where in Donny as I'm not on RR.

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The proper fix would be to have the cam carrier and head line bored to the correct dimeninsion for the camshaft.

 

BUT how Tight is it ?

 

Can you mask up all of the orifices and lap the cam into the head and cam carrier with some coarse grinding paste ? There can't be that much manufacturing tolerance on them or any new cam would never fit.

 

It is very 'Neanderthal' in approach and a bit 'two headgaskets on an massiveleynoverskimmed TR7 head.......done for a mate who was very skint' but it might get you up and running.

 

Got to be careful where the shiz gets to, maybe plug up the oil ways with a bit of candle wax, just enough to stop then shiz getting down, but not too much that you can't just pick the plug out afterwards.

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The proper fix would be to have the cam carrier and head line bored to the correct dimeninsion for the camshaft.

 

The issue is that the cam carrier is in two pieces. It needs to either be welded back together or replaced. 

Engineering shops are saying no to possibility of welding mainly because it has broken in some odd places and was just a pig of a job that is unlikely to go right. I took it to three and they all were pretty straight up with me. 

 

Which leaves option two for current engine. 

 

2 A - find a cam carrier and then it will need to be machined to match the new camshaft. the head will also have to be machined as well which ends up in removing the head. 

 

2 B - Find a replacement head (slim chance someone might have one)  

 

 

The other option is find an engine that will fit for not much dosh and lob that in. Economically it is going to end up as more than the car is worth (not that it stops me) Ideally I need to find out if a T Series drops in and then find one that works cheaply.  

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Can the T series head be fitted to the M series block? Had a quick search but no definitive answer. Not sure if block was similar/same, but would be easier to get a T series head than an M one if it could be fitted. 

 

So the T series was a development of the M-Series (M16), which was in turn a development of the O-Series, which dated back to the BMC B-Series engine as found in the MG B.

As can be seen the T16 was the final product of a long evolution of the B series unit harking back to the 1950s. As such it shares characteristics of these older style engines, being of long stroke design and like its predecessor had an iron block

 

http://www.mginfo.co.uk/upgrades4mgs/Engines/Chris_Hassal_T16.html

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Can the T series head be fitted to the M series block? Had a quick search but no definitive answer. Not sure if block was similar/same, but would be easier to get a T series head than an M one if it could be fitted. 

 

So the T series was a development of the M-Series (M16), which was in turn a development of the O-Series, which dated back to the BMC B-Series engine as found in the MG B.

As can be seen the T16 was the final product of a long evolution of the B series unit harking back to the 1950s. As such it shares characteristics of these older style engines, being of long stroke design and like its predecessor had an iron block

 

http://www.mginfo.co.uk/upgrades4mgs/Engines/Chris_Hassal_T16.html

 

 

Obviously* the answer is to fit a B series head then....

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That would need to be done as well - I would have to get that done myself. Plus then all the extra bits like headgasket set, other drive belt etc. Then there is the blowing exhaust to fix, I think it needs a right rear caliper - ignoring any other issues there might be for the MOT. 

 

Putting sensible trousers on I dont think I am going to get this finished.  Missus Moog asked the question this morning about the car and I told her the costs etc. That got a look.  I hate the unfinished business part but resources mean I cant indulge all my whims. 

 

Would I prefer to have a running Rover 820 that would be then sold for a loss or a track day and money for other cars? I think it is number two.   

 

Plus the clutch on the 406 is starting to slip and I have a Saab sitting waiting for tickling. 

 

Cartakeback are offering £160 for the car as it is. will try a spares / repairs ad on here. 

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Has the head been skimmed in recent past?

 

The reason I ask is that skimming a warped head gives a nice flat face to the block.....but possibly a wobbly one to bolt a cam carrier to.

 

I've had this on an astra that snapped a cam.......

 

A garage had done the head gasket and had the head skimmed.....all good for a while till cam snapped.

 

When the head was skimmed only the bottom face was skimmed. As new the head will have had two faces which were true and parallel....so if a badly overheated and warped head is skimmed it needs doing top and bottom.

 

If not you are then bolting a nice ally cam carrier to a wavy surface and once bolted down it will be distorted. If you are lucky it will only make the cam or followers a little tight for a while.....if unlucky bad things happen.

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If it does come to weighing it in, message me on here or FB and I'll ask my mate how much he'd pay/if he'd collect from you. He usually pays more than most, if it comes to it.

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Took some photos for someone from the Rover forum who is interested in the 800 for wings, doors etc and I felt it tugging at my heart strings. 

 

It is too nice a car to scrap and although breaking it might help another one live, I cant help but think it needs to live somehow. Been offered to stash it somewhere out of Missus Moogs sight so may think about putting it back together ish and hiding it. Issue is that is it a non runner so moving it may be a pain. But I could then create a head fund and stick £100 in a month, then perhaps in the spring fix it.

 

BUT 

then my head gets involved 

 

It is still going to cost a chunk to get back running (probably more than it is worth) for a car I am not that fussed about. Out of sight, out of mind - I think once it is moved I am unlikely to get excited about getting it back and then will end up getting rid of it a year down the line. 

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Wow Moogs! Only just caught up with this thread, how I didn't see this thread earlier is beyond me (or maybbe I was just reeling from Turkey trip) Didn't realise how much of an arseache this car was. Shame as it looks really clean. In good order, running and shizzles, you'd probably get close to £1200 or thereabouts.

 

I'd happily have it of you, but truth be told. I have too many Mk1 800s laying about vaying for attention/money. I have no money because 2Homes Mo strikes again. Have you offered it on the 800 forum? A bit of a waste of time to be honest but it's worth a shot sold as a whole car, it would honestly be nice to see a mid-spec Mk1 live on.

 

I'm not much clearer on M-Series engines. If the gearbox is the same, the T-Series could bolt straight in as effectively the front end of the Mk2 is the same as the Mk1 (I.e; front ends can be swapped over)

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