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Moogs Motahs - sinking the seat


The Moog

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My Dad fixed an indicator stalk with Araldite whilst we were on holiday in Italy once.

 

Upon return to the UK a new indicator stalk was purchased.

 

The new unit is still in its box on the shelf and the repaired unit is still on the car and working fine.

 

The repair was in 1974, must have been a proper quality bodge.

 

But as you say, it is only £20 and at best that will get you a couple of randoms in the next rofule

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Whens a free car not a free car is the life long question. 

 

Just ordered a camshaft and associated bits including cam belt. Most of it is general service stuff to be fair but the costs mount up quickly. This is why I never keep track normally! 

 

Current Rover spent list is

 

 £0   Car
 £0   Tyres
 £36.00 Battery
 £8.00 Waterpump
 £39.00 Camshaft
 £4.00 Rotor arm
 £8.00 Sparkplugs
 £3.00 Coolant sensor - gauge 
 £6.00 air filter
 £6.00 thermostat
 £64.00 Rimmers - Bolt, oil filler cap, timing belt, tensioner, cam gasket, oil seals
 £20.00 oil
 £15.00 Coolant
 £7.00 Coolant sensor 
 £216.00 Total
 
Will need exhaust patching (or depending on state some of it replacing) to get through MOT at the very least. 
 
 
 
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Whens a free car not a free car is the life long question.

 

Just ordered a camshaft and associated bits including cam belt. Most of it is general service stuff to be fair but the costs mount up quickly. This is why I never keep track normally!

 

Current Rover spent list is

 

£0 Car

£0 Tyres

£36.00 Battery

£8.00 Waterpump

£39.00 Camshaft

£4.00 Rotor arm

£8.00 Sparkplugs

£3.00 Coolant sensor - gauge

£6.00 air filter

£6.00 thermostat

£64.00 Rimmers - Bolt, oil filler cap, timing belt, tensioner, cam gasket, oil seals

£20.00 oil

£15.00 Coolant

£7.00 Coolant sensor

£216.00 Total

 

Will need exhaust patching (or depending on state some of it replacing) to get through MOT at the very least.

Ah, yes but...

 

Feeling of smugness when sat along side some prick in a PCPd Audi that costs half as much again every month just to borrow from VAG so they can fund legal hate mail to Vulg and knowing your big green lump of longbridge loveliness will get you home just as quickly and probably in more comfort.....Priceless

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As pointed out above it was worth trying to fix the dizzy spacer plate and save £30.

 

Filled with putty and hole drilled in it.

1035eca023dd155ae2a812a61d38ff66.jpg

 

Then a case of countersinking the screw

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Once roughly there. Cleaned it up

062d0cf523e619a360d60779bbeb8ed7.jpg

 

Then some go faster black

c5661a868c306fc766f8a889ceb92959.jpg

 

Once dried didn't look too bad

9a8b04910c04f392055a324f8f7916f2.jpg8f9346b8ff4e1237cfd4adbb0b1e6906.jpg

 

 

Last time left the radiator covered in krust. Gave it a quick brush back and then a coat of black

23a42fd2773cbd924b31bad5e3bb44ec.jpg

 

Comes up a treat.

 

Safety hound has got a rover addiction. Wandered out to see what I was doing

ce1bc2a1276385fff487c0938adee11f.jpg

 

Then sat waiting for me to let him in the back seat for his sleep

5b1d335f5cb0053af51f2154dffbc148.jpg

 

406 showed up some codes yesterday

15eef077ca7cfb817485f2c7c88e59a0.jpg

 

EGR was unplugged hence that code.

 

MAF was removed and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner.

770bbbf1641efcaee10fcfcdef544250.jpg

 

Doesn't seem to have made any difference although the code went. New MAF ordered as only £30 - there goes the saving :-)

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Couple of hours ago this turned up c254382cf60ae5c2ebd899f9dc6a7913.jpgf10ac65bdd66dabb58b7a1b9a86f5cad.jpg

 

Ignoring all the important jobs I cracked on with it.

 

New camshaft cleaned and oiled. You can see the wear on the old one

 

264009a62c92f0361ec21e0610dc19df.jpg396ee83456e0af6456c1e527fbc80b06.jpg

 

Then the mating surfaces were carefully cleaned before reassembly

 

 

54fae4dbfd84256aec9071bfd01ad41c.jpgfb62a701535970fc4461cc1869c3af4b.jpgc3453545f2a716ee254f53733720b4ea.jpg99f3750c8708ab11cec11284f8a8eb0d.jpg8e7086fb1c442b48b561040a969ff873.jpg

 

At which point I realised what a bellend I had been. In my haste to take out the bolts I had take the head bolts for this side out.

 

I have put them back in and torqued to correct number in correct sequence. I am not sure if it is going to effect it or not.

 

Whilst flustered I also managed to break the timing belt cover - will see if I can find another one.

 

ed1f6a441f49526487334efb31db7a42.jpg

After cup of tea I set to putting the camshaft in. After 20 mins of trying I have called it quits. It won't sit flat in the head.

 

f43a45a84a7dc7ce0153af12c0960662.jpg

 

I don't want to force it by doing the bolts up unless someone says that is ok

cb4c4dfbb0c2d4b3df0985353ba22ce8.jpg

 

There is a gap both sides and it isn't obviously caught on anything. I checked with old camshaft and that is the same. (I know it is missing oil seals and also will need a smear of sealant)

 

Any hints or tips?

 

 

 

To feel some success I changed to the new oil cap. 31ede6a2bf96861abcf9664ad642a6ba.jpg

 

Also found this in HBOL

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I

Don't take this as gospel put there's usually a procedure in tightening camshaft bolts similar to a cylinder head. this will gradually pull the cam down onto the valves. What does the HBOL say?

That. When you fit the cam it has to compress some valve springs in that setup. Doing it in the right order means you don't strip threads or bend the shaft.
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Did you make sure the cam timing marks were correct if the crankshaft was on the tdc mark or that all 4 pistons were midway whilst it was fitted? 

 

If installing it in a different position to the old one when removed, it might have opened a valve as it was tightened that then came in to contact with a piston, therefore no further movement and ended as it did. 

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Did you make sure the cam timing marks were correct if the crankshaft was on the tdc mark or that all 4 pistons were midway whilst it was fitted?

 

If installing it in a different position to the old one when removed, it might have opened a valve as it was tightened that then came in to contact with a piston, therefore no further movement and ended as it did.

Simple answer is no.

 

That sounds like what I have done.

 

Can't find any heads so will see if I can get it welded up.

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The patch bolt is the one with a patch of preapplied threadlock type gunk. You can see it in the HBOL picture.

 

Yours look like they were patch treated, you can see some of the compound left in the threads.

 

Just clean the threads up and put threadlock on (guessing that HBOL tells you to put it on plain bolts but not patch ones)

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