Kiltox Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Autoaid should definitely be the shiter's choice for breakdown cover - was just recovered 60 miles and again didn't need to pay up front like the terms say I should 42 quid a year. egg, loserone and Landy Mann 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Good to hear. I'm another autoaid-er. What's up with the Panda? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 First off was rough running - surging at idle really badly (2k plus rpm) Got some pez then parked it up to have a smoke and check it's levels. Topped up the water (has a leak) then tried to start it and it wouldn't. Bump start was also fruitless Breakdown guy found fault codes for camshaft sensor and manifold pressure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil_lihp Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 I didn't have to pay up front either, perhaps Autoaid have started paying the recovery firms directly. It does seem to make more sense. loserone 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Weird though because Equity Red Star underwrite another breakdown product, Autonational Rescue, that is twice the price because it's not "pay and claim" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 I assume I should test sensor wiring on the cam and crank sensors before buying new ones - anyone know what to look for to determine if there's a wiring problem between the sensor and ECU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Most engines should run with a MAP sensor disconnected. Also usually can run (albeit rough) without a cam sensor - as long as there is a crank sensor active. Without a oscilloscope, you can't check the waveform of the actual sensor to accurately determine that. One way to test the wiring would be to see if there was a break/high resistance (like >100 ohms) in the wiring with a multimeter in continuity test mode. No idea on Fiats, but Crank sensors usually cause a whole world of pain on a lot of cars when they start failing. A common (painful) symptoms is that the engine runs fine for 20 minutes or so, until warm, then suffers a FTP. Also double check that the sensor pickup isn't dirty. Sometimes they collect swarf and dirt, which confuses them. A quick clean then fixes them. For my breakdown cover I use Nationwide Plus account. £10 p/m for breakdown, mobile phone insurance, worldwide travel insurance, 12 months extra warranty on home appliances and 3% interest on money in the account up to £2500. If you have a joint account with the missus with them, its still £10 p/m - but covers both people instead! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 I do have access to a scope I'll clean and test for continuity in the hope I can get it running enough to get into the workshop first. Need to fix the Audi exhaust to make room though!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Audi exhaust almost has me beat - think I'm going to need to chop it at the downpipe and sleeve it back together Or give it a gallon of unleaded and a match Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Had another play with the Panda - strongly suspect that there is an earth problem because the clock keeps resetting itself despite the battery being strong enough to turn the engine over still Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Started digging around the Panda (or "lot 77" as I've taken to calling it) today. Just look at the lovely interior! Don't think it's had a service for a long time First steps are to replace the leads and plugs (the leads disintegrated in my hands) and clean up all of the chassis grounds. Probably replace that gopping filter too SiC, Jim Bell, egg and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayroller Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 I've just spent a good few minutes trying to work out what you'd put the question mark on that last picture for... I think I needs a drinkie... Barry Cade, anonymous user, DeeJay and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Looks like the idle motor in the throttle body has had its day - but it's built in and not removable so I'll need to source another throttle body. Starts much easier now having given it a good clean though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Waiting for a throttle body, hopefully be here tomorrow Meanwhile, that back seat Before: During: After: Far from perfect but should be useable without contracting some kind of plaguey death CGSB, oldcars, anonymous user and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Nice effort. I like these cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HH-R Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Everything electric is absolutely shit on these, favourites are the connectors to the ECU coming adrift and getting dirt in, camshaft sensors, crank sensors, ECUs failing, coil packs. I had a wiring fault (I think) on the camshaft sensor - every single day when it refused to start it would chuck up the EML and it was always camshaft position sensor circuit A. I expertly fixed it myself with electrical tape and it cured the stuttering but still wouldn't start every single morning. No one could/would diagnose it or fix it, I always got it back as "no fault found" because either no one would listen when I said it starts fine when it's warm or the damn would start for them if left overnight. I lost loads of money on parts roulette and taking days off work so just got shot and cut my losses before I had a breakdown myself. One of two dabbles into modern cars I've had that cost over £1000 that both ended up disastrous, never fuggin again. Batteries have to be tip top on these to work properly, I think even if they can spin the engine over OK sometimes there's not enough power left to keep the ECU and injectors stable. The clock resetting is a classic sign. Might be worth seeing if you can try another one in before buying though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Did the camshaft sensor wiring break in any particular place? Still haven't ruled it out but I do think the throttle body is my main cause of the problems I have at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HH-R Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Mine was right where it went into the sensor on the top of the engine. I think it was so tight from the factory that vibrations etc pulled it. Not sure if they're all like that but I could see the individual coloured wires going into the sensor. I boshed loads of tape on it to take the strain off those wires and it did improve it. Costs nothing to try anyway! Kiltox 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Please tell me yours hadn't done 180k miles and you didn't get rid of it at auction mat_the_cat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HH-R Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Nope, I had 2005 which wasn't *too* bad, lots of stupid faults on it like a dry joint on the wiper motor and a leaking washer bottle. Took it from 35 to 40k and sorted all of the issues when it got rear ended and written off. Got pretty much what I paid for it 18 months earlier so not too bad... I replaced it with a 2009, 1 owner, 50k on the clock and it just broke down constantly. I think I got rid with about 58k on clock and 20 years knocked off my life. They have a good rep though, maybe I was just unlucky? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longblackcoat Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I've got a 2009 Panda, and nothing - NOTHING - has gone wrong since I've had it. 15000 utterly troublefree miles. I rate them. anonymous user, theshadow, Inspector Morose and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartacus Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 That was filthy inside, honestly who let's a car get that bad? oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 New* throttle body fitted, no change. Ran the self learn clear function on my diagnostics to reset stored values in the ECU - now revs less high when it pulses but it's still erratic and now the EML is flashing because it needs to get up to temperature to complete its self learning and I'm hesitant to do that with such a porous cooling system. Don't think it'll fix it anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Starting to think it has OMGHGF and has been boiled up..... Anyone got a woefully cheap 1.1 MPI FIRE engine before I frag it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aston Martin Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 The 1.1 is supposed to be dreadfully slow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 The 1.1 is supposed to be dreadfully slow.For a small runaround I don't think it's that bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aston Martin Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Throw in the 1.2, more readily available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Will it work with the ECU and wiring I have though? Gets expensive if I'm having to replace that too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Cade Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 That Panda is giving me a twitch, I just want to give it a cuddle and protect it from the big boys. DONT YOU DARE HURT IT. The Moog and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Cavcraft 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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