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Kiltox and his shit/shite hybrids - 280k mile ex-Dermist Passat!


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#61 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 08:09 PM

Autoaid should definitely be the shiter's choice for breakdown cover - was just recovered 60 miles and again didn't need to pay up front like the terms say I should 42 quid a year.
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2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
1998 S VW Passat 1.9 TDI (ex Dermist)
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#62 ONLINE   egg

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 08:42 PM

Good to hear. I'm another autoaid-er. What's up with the Panda?


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#63 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 09:47 PM

First off was rough running - surging at idle really badly (2k plus rpm) Got some pez then parked it up to have a smoke and check it's levels. Topped up the water (has a leak) then tried to start it and it wouldn't. Bump start was also fruitless Breakdown guy found fault codes for camshaft sensor and manifold pressure
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#64 OFFLINE   phil_lihp

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 09:54 PM

I didn't have to pay up front either, perhaps Autoaid have started paying the recovery firms directly. It does seem to make more sense.
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#65 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 09:57 PM

Weird though because Equity Red Star underwrite another breakdown product, Autonational Rescue, that is twice the price because it's not "pay and claim"
2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
1998 S VW Passat 1.9 TDI (ex Dermist)
1998 R Rover 216 Cabriolet

1996 P VW Golf 1.8 Auto (ex sporty-shite)

#66 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 06:25 PM

I assume I should test sensor wiring on the cam and crank sensors before buying new ones - anyone know what to look for to determine if there's a wiring problem between the sensor and ECU?
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#67 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 10:58 AM

Most engines should run with a MAP sensor disconnected. Also usually can run (albeit rough) without a cam sensor - as long as there is a crank sensor active.

Without a oscilloscope, you can't check the waveform of the actual sensor to accurately determine that. One way to test the wiring would be to see if there was a break/high resistance (like >100 ohms) in the wiring with a multimeter in continuity test mode.

No idea on Fiats, but Crank sensors usually cause a whole world of pain on a lot of cars when they start failing. A common (painful) symptoms is that the engine runs fine for 20 minutes or so, until warm, then suffers a FTP. Also double check that the sensor pickup isn't dirty. Sometimes they collect swarf and dirt, which confuses them. A quick clean then fixes them.

For my breakdown cover I use Nationwide Plus account. £10 p/m for breakdown, mobile phone insurance, worldwide travel insurance, 12 months extra warranty on home appliances and 3% interest on money in the account up to £2500. If you have a joint account with the missus with them, its still £10 p/m - but covers both people instead!
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#68 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 01:43 PM

I do have access to a scope

I'll clean and test for continuity in the hope I can get it running enough to get into the workshop first. Need to fix the Audi exhaust to make room though!!
2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
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#69 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 09:29 PM

Audi exhaust almost has me beat - think I'm going to need to chop it at the downpipe and sleeve it back together

Or give it a gallon of unleaded and a match
2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
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#70 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 11:16 PM

Had another play with the Panda - strongly suspect that there is an earth problem because the clock keeps resetting itself despite the battery being strong enough to turn the engine over still
2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
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#71 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 06:33 PM

Started digging around the Panda (or "lot 77" as I've taken to calling it) today. Just look at the lovely interior!

image.jpeg

Don't think it's had a service for a long time

image.jpeg

First steps are to replace the leads and plugs (the leads disintegrated in my hands) and clean up all of the chassis grounds. Probably replace that gopping filter too
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2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
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1998 R Rover 216 Cabriolet

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#72 OFFLINE   jayroller

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 07:14 PM

I've just spent a good few minutes trying to work out what you'd put the question mark on that last picture for...

 

I think I needs a drinkie...


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I know a genuine Panaphonics when I see one.

#73 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 11:02 PM

Looks like the idle motor in the throttle body has had its day - but it's built in and not removable so I'll need to source another throttle body.

Starts much easier now having given it a good clean though
2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
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#74 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 09:58 PM

Waiting for a throttle body, hopefully be here tomorrow

Meanwhile, that back seat

Before:

image.jpeg

During:

image.jpeg

After:

image.jpeg

Far from perfect but should be useable without contracting some kind of plaguey death
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2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
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#75 ONLINE   Rusty_Rocket

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 10:02 PM

Nice effort. I like these cars!



#76 OFFLINE   HH-R

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 10:10 PM

Everything electric is absolutely shit on these, favourites are the connectors to the ECU coming adrift and getting dirt in, camshaft sensors, crank sensors, ECUs failing, coil packs. I had a wiring fault (I think) on the camshaft sensor - every single day when it refused to start it would chuck up the EML and it was always camshaft position sensor circuit A. I expertly fixed it myself with electrical tape and it cured the stuttering but still wouldn't start every single morning. No one could/would diagnose it or fix it, I always got it back as "no fault found" because either no one would listen when I said it starts fine when it's warm or  the damn would start for them if left overnight. I lost loads of money on parts roulette and taking days off work so just got shot and cut my losses before I had a breakdown myself. One of two dabbles into modern cars I've had that cost over £1000 that both ended up disastrous, never fuggin again.

 

Batteries have to be tip top on these to work properly, I think even if they can spin the engine over OK sometimes there's not enough power left to keep the ECU and injectors stable. The clock resetting is a classic sign. Might be worth seeing if you can try another one in before buying though.



#77 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 10:15 PM

Did the camshaft sensor wiring break in any particular place? Still haven't ruled it out but I do think the throttle body is my main cause of the problems I have at the moment
2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
1998 S VW Passat 1.9 TDI (ex Dermist)
1998 R Rover 216 Cabriolet

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#78 OFFLINE   HH-R

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 10:21 PM

Mine was right where it went into the sensor on the top of the engine. I think it was so tight from the factory that vibrations etc pulled it. Not sure if they're all like that but I could see the individual coloured wires going into the sensor. I boshed loads of tape on it to take the strain off those wires and it did improve it. Costs nothing to try anyway!


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#79 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 10:58 PM

Please tell me yours hadn't done 180k miles and you didn't get rid of it at auction :lol:
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#80 OFFLINE   HH-R

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 11:07 PM

Nope, I had 2005 which wasn't *too* bad, lots of stupid faults on it like a dry joint on the wiper motor and a leaking washer bottle. Took it from 35 to 40k and sorted all of the issues when it got rear ended and written off. Got pretty much what I paid for it 18 months earlier so not too bad... I replaced it with a 2009, 1 owner, 50k on the clock and it just broke down constantly. I think I got rid with about 58k on clock and 20 years knocked off my life.

 

They have a good rep though, maybe I was just unlucky?



#81 OFFLINE   Longblackcoat

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 07:56 AM

I've got a 2009 Panda, and nothing - NOTHING - has gone wrong since I've had it. 15000 utterly troublefree miles. I rate them.
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#82 OFFLINE   spartacus

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 08:51 AM

That was filthy inside, honestly who let's a car get that bad?
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#83 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 07:07 PM

New* throttle body fitted, no change.

Ran the self learn clear function on my diagnostics to reset stored values in the ECU - now revs less high when it pulses but it's still erratic and now the EML is flashing because it needs to get up to temperature to complete its self learning and I'm hesitant to do that with such a porous cooling system.

Don't think it'll fix it anyway
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#84 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 10:02 PM

Starting to think it has OMGHGF and has been boiled up.....

Anyone got a woefully cheap 1.1 MPI FIRE engine before I frag it? :(
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#85 OFFLINE   Aston Martin

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 10:33 PM

The 1.1 is supposed to be dreadfully slow.
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#86 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 10:52 PM

The 1.1 is supposed to be dreadfully slow.


For a small runaround I don't think it's that bad
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#87 OFFLINE   Aston Martin

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 10:57 PM

Throw in the 1.2, more readily available.
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#88 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 11:02 PM

Will it work with the ECU and wiring I have though? Gets expensive if I'm having to replace that too
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#89 OFFLINE   Barry Cade.

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 11:48 PM

That Panda is giving me a twitch, I just want to give it a cuddle and protect it from the big boys. DONT YOU DARE HURT IT.


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#90 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 11:55 PM

image.jpeg
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