kelvin2008 Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 I have tonight started on removing the head on my 1.9 non turbo 306 as ive got an awful lot of oil in the cooling system coolant. Does anyone know if im going to have to remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds or can I get by with just dropping the down pipe? Id rather leave as much on the head as possible as I just intend to change the gasket and see how it runs after as I have a bad feeling it could be a cracked head which would render the car uneconomical to repair. Its done 225 thousand miles. Any tips on cleaning out the oil from the cooling system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 I worked at a Peugeot dealers about 15 years ago, did a lot of heads (but done a lot of others since), I think I would usually leave the exhaust manifold connected to the downpipe, would zip out the nut (v.v. deep socket) on the timing end engine mount and throw a jack under the engine to help with clearance, and usually take the inlet off as it was a bit cumbersome, important bit is to pay attention to the timing marks, so that the pistons are all midway. I remember watching the master technician doing his own car in a couple of lunch hours, put a new cam in as well, thought he knew better, broke the cam into three pieces as he zapped the head on, cracked a bearing cap as well, marvellous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tony Hayers Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 As yours is the non turbo it makes it a bit easier as when I did the HG on both of my XUD turbo's I supported the exhaust with a axles tand so it didnt shear or break the oil supply & return pipe for the turbo.As for clearing out the oil I used a bottle of radflush from a local motorfactors, it did take 2 or three goes to do it but once you have done the HG and got everyting back together fill it with plain water and run the engine up to operating temp (5-7 mins should do) then drain out the hot water and it should get most of the oil out of the system (repeat a few times)The main thing is to flush out and reverse flush the cooling system to make sure that you have no blockages. And never spin the engine over on the starter when the cambeltbelt is back on and tightened, always turn it over a few revoloutions with a spanner via the crank pully to make sure the timing marks line up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelvin2008 Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 Thanks for the tips, It seems the general view is the manifolds have to come off then, best get out there with the torch again, its at the end of the drive up on ramps behind two other "projects" with the tools in the garage so have to keep walking backwards and forwards and through a gate. Im relying on the works van for everyday stuff now things cant get much more inconvienient im sure you have all been in the same boat! always happens in the winter doesnt it! As for the timing do you think it will be ok if I tippex marks on the timing belt alongside marks on the sprockets and then zip tie the belt to each sprocket to stop it moving? I see the camshaft sprocket has to come off can it stay to one side with the belt zip tied to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 That jogged my memory, there's a drilling/s on cam pulley which lines up with holes in head for locking pins / suitable size drill bits / bolts, and something similar for the flywheel, jeccy pump, it's a really good system as it locks everything where it should be, but the cable ties thing is good also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timewaster Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 I know a man with a 306 non turbo engine sittiing in his shed, in Cambridgeshire.I dont know what he'd want for it, but it ran fine when he pulled it out of a car that someone had mistakenly left in a town centre car park and returned to find it utterly trashed by the local pre teen in breds.I can ask for you if you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelvin2008 Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 Finally got the manifolds off tonight, had to drop the downpipe as well, I think im going to get a engine locking kit tomorow before I take the cambelt side off. I might be up for that engine if I could have the head off it if mines cracked but I cant see myself changing the whole engine, id be towing it down to the weigh bridge before then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelvin2008 Posted February 21, 2009 Author Share Posted February 21, 2009 Heads off, looks to have been skimmed fairly recently and its got a real thick head gasket, I have been "given" another head off a turbo version all I have to do is take it off. Does anyone know if its ok to put a turbo head on a normally aspirated XUD? my original head has the round ports, I wont be trying to fit the turbocharger or anything just put the head on, will I have to swap cams over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 That's a bugger, looks like someone already tried and failed, I'm not certain, but I think turbo cams are generally the same as normal, and where the compression ratio is lower it's done by dishing the pistons. You really don't want to have to faff about with valve clearances unless you have to, so maybe best leave the cam put, although worth whipping it out and pouring some petrol or something in the combustion chambers, or down the ports, and check it doesn't leak past the valve seats, tighten the cam back in slowly and evenly, they can snap like a carrot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timewaster Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Kelvin, I asked the question. He only wants to sell the whole lot, inc gearbox. I can see his point I suppose, who is going to want a headless block?Anyway he says £120. He's the stingiest bugger I've ever met so haggling would be a challenge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Buy it and drop the whole lot in, you don't have to buy any gaskets and you could be driving tomorrow, minimal faff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelvin2008 Posted February 22, 2009 Author Share Posted February 22, 2009 Thanks for asking, not for me im afraid, ive got the turbo head off and next to my original it does indeed look the same, got a head gasket from GSF peterborough over twenty quid! could have got a headset off ebay cheaper but didnt want to wait for posting, got the gasket for the thermostat housing for 70p much more like it. Headbolts have been measured and havent stretched a bit, they didnt seem tight enough when I undone them to me and are plainly fairly new still with all the silver paint on. I stuck the hose down the radiator filler and let the oily water flow out the top of the block into a load off buckets underneath the engine till it ran clear, going to do the same with boiling water from the kettle next and then get the compressor out and dry it all off down the headbolt holes etc. suppose im enjoying it really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 The headbolts may not have streched, but seriously consider buying new. You dont want one shearing when you torque the head down do you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Do buy new head bolts, you'll regret it if you don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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