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Broken Benzes - any interest?


RichardK

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Really overloaded with cars right now, and a few hiccups and stresses suggest the rational thing is to ditch the ones that aren't behaving.

 

In the Blue corner:

 

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2001 Y-plate Mercedes A160 LWB Auto - full auto, not the silly one. 11?000 miles, a bit shabby, MOT expired. Has full-lenth sunroof, half leather, electric windows, cruise control with limiter.

 

Problems are: Needs a good service including aux belt/tensioner, needs a driveshaft or ABS reluctor ring on the OSF, is a bit scruffy around the edges. Missing ABS ring = limp home mode, 30mph limited.

 

In the Green corner:

 

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2002 51-plate Mercedes E320 CDI Estate. 114,000 miles. Full leather, COMAND Satnav/car radio/telephone, aftermarket Golde sliding/tilting glass sunroof (looks almost factory), 7 seater, towbar (detachable) (twin electrics need converting to 13 pin ideally and a new bracket fitting as the original bracket was a mess and prevented the sockets being used they were so far up behind the bumper). Avantgarde spec so has reasonable kit. Engine works very well, pulls like a straight six Benz turbo diesel should. OM613 lump. MOTd until April 2016 IIRC, will check (but reg is KW51GZM if you want to poke the history). Sills are good near jacking points at the back though. Subframe mounts on body good, spring perches good, recent front springs. Aircon worked when car was in regular use.

 

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Problems: Some rust behind rear bumper - not poked it hard enough to see if it's holed. Subframe rubber mounts or trans mounts worn. Scruffy arches/tailgate/front wings/milky headlights, marks on bumpers despite parking sensors.

 

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Big problem - gearbox is "in need of attention". Goes into drive/reverse, gets less than a mile typically then goes into limp home mode. Have replaced pin bushing and cleaned ATF out of ECU, problem still exists. In order of "how likely do I think the problem/fix is"...

1: Quite loud whining audible in car when car is in drive or neutral. Sounds like a knackered tensioner bearing up front, but it's definitely coming from the gearbox. This suggests either whining pump due to low oil pressure (fixable without box coming out) or the ARGH FEAR torque convertor is FUBAR. That is unusual on a post-'99 722.6, but not impossible.

 

2: It's low on ATF due to leaking into ECU, and this has caused issues with the conductor plate, and the speed sensors are playing up - hence the initial symptom of flare 2-3, and the fact that when the car loses drive (it does sometimes), switching it off & on again restores drive with no ill effects. This could mean conductor plate or valve body repairs - the former, "can be done without box out, cost around £125-200 for the parts depending on how lucky you are sourcing one". Valve body is "clean it, replace the springs and solenoids as required, parts fiddly to source but not expensive, job needs almost clean-room attention to detail".

And finally, 3. Yes, 3, the lucky number.

 

That one would be "change the ATF filter and fluid, top it up, and it'll all go away".

 

I think that's highly unlikely. But you know...

 

Anyway. I'd really like to be around £5-600 on the E-class - it's a relatively low mileage engine, has many good parts (diff wasn't noisy etc.) but I cannot be arsed breaking it for parts and have so many projects to get through fixing it - even the filter change - is slipping away from me.

 

The A-class, I've got no idea. Under £250 and I'd probably just leave it in a shed until I have the time/inclination to attack the front hub with heat/impact sockets etc. as I can now get underneath it to do that (horrid) aux belt job. Really though it's quite tired, so it's hard to feel motivated.

 

 

 

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That E-class sounds absolutely ideal auction fodder. If the problem doesn't manifest itself for a mile or so then you're laughing, and that ridiculous cockney know it all from 'Deals, Wheels and Steals' can buy it and pretend to sell it to that unbearable gobshite who trades classic cars.

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That E-class sounds absolutely ideal auction fodder. If the problem doesn't manifest itself for a mile or so then you're laughing, and that ridiculous cockney know it all from 'Deals, Wheels and Steals' can buy it and pretend to sell it to that unbearable gobshite who trades classic cars.

 

I couldn't do it, to be honest. That's why I'm hanging fire so much on it - if I get into fixing it it'll push back fixing the 406's suspension/service, it'll push back fixing the Twingo head gasket, and so on because the parts to do the gearbox service are about £100 with the oil/filters/gaskets (and I haven't done the SLK one yet) and if that doesn't sort it, I'll end up stripping the box but trying to fit it into work. I can't sell a car to someone knowing it has a fault unless they're clearly buying it with that fault.

 

It'll get 5-6 miles some days before spitting the dummy. So sure it's not "broken" broken, but the whine sounds serious.

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