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Yellow/sunroof 406 V6 Coupé Manual - £650 MOT November


RichardK

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There are a few little jobs - it has the V6 sump edge leaks, which I'm assured are normal but if you want to sort it on purchase it can be done here - I need to get money in, space isn't a problem. The strut tops feel tight when it's on the ramp, wheels off the ground, though it felt okay when driving. Interior is pretty good, a few marks - though I noticed the driver's seat latch sounds like it's working but isn't latching (the forward motor thing works) - I can have a look at that when I've found a diagram of where it actually is, it was working so I'm guessing it's stuck in the open position for some reason. Bootlid has a small dent (I've got an undamaged one to fit) and there are minor bits on the body. It's a £1000 V6, not a £3K one, fundamentally, but being so rare it's worth the effort. Battery has been kept topped up, electrics work...

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Had a flick through the thread. Did you ever get that cambelt changed? Or even any record of when it was last done?

 

Being (pretty much) the same engine as mine, its not a cheap job at a garage and the vast majority of places won't touch it. :?

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Had a flick through the thread. Did you ever get that cambelt changed? Or even any record of when it was last done?

 

Being (pretty much) the same engine as mine, its not a cheap job at a garage and the vast majority of places won't touch it. :?

 

 

Nope, if I had, it wouldn't be for sale for £500 - it's done a handful of miles in my ownership and I took the cover off to check belt condition, looked good :)

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Yeah I know, bit of a cheeky one. It was more just a ponder if it's ever been done in its lifetime tbh.

 

I've got told I need to shift the Astra off the drive before I can think about getting anything else :?

 

Wanted to hang on to it though, as the Gooner still isn't 100% yet - AT needs a few fluid changes to hopefully fix it.

 

So I'm probably out for now. (Really do want a 406 coupe before they get extinct and I like yellow cars!)

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Oil change done, 5W/40 full synth, genuine filter. Now had a proper listen, and the only thing notable is I think a lazy/stuck cam follower, it's got a tap on the forward bank. Steering tested, the struts judder - definitely top bearings sticking, probably not that big a job when I've got compressors, air tools & a lift with the car already raised. Droplinks are still making me cry, why Peugeot put the bottom link in such a stupid place is beyond me.

Pictures soon of it in current state. Don't all jump on it at once. Seriously though, insanely pretty car with a lovely engine, gearbox & chassis, very comfortable, and I'm considering if I should just sell the Twingo on as a project instead at this rate :D

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Well, if anyone can be tempted... please form an orderly or disorderly queue!

 

I'm almost tempted to Roffle.

 

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Going to try a dremel on the lower droplink bolts. F@#&^*$%#ing stupid design. Should the rear ARB move up & down freely? I think it should (with some resistance because of bushes), and it doesn't, which is probably why the droplinks failed in the first place.

 

 

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So suddenly my whirlwind of socialising and so forth has ended, and I got time this weekend to look at the 406 some more. If anyone wants it at £500, be quick, because I've started fixing more parts!

 

First, the droplinks - holding me back from just doing it the obvious way (remove rear calipers) was the knowledge that they failed because the £@&*(%ing ARB had seized. In fact, it makes perfect sense - I stopped driving the car because I hit a rapid (but not pothole) undulation on the A38, there was a clonk from the rear, and it handled funny which made me really worried the droplinks were doing something more serious - that clonk was almost certainly the ARB being forced to move, then refusing to move back, making the rear end a bit weird.

 

Turns out that the solid lumps of rust I'd assumed to be the things holding the ARB on were more solid that I'd feared, and with some tapping to remove the worst and a 16mm socket carefully tapped, removed, tapped - the nuts were revealed and undid without drama.

 

So the ARB is now mostly removed, bar one nut obscured by the fuel tank filler neck. Personally I think it needs a new ARB and bushes, but some people might sand back the old one and try powdercoating it (because it seized, all the powdercoat cracked, and now it's rusted. I suspect the time - money equation favours just buying a new bar).

 

Once the ARB is free to move, the new droplinks will be worth the effort of fitting and bonus, the car will probably ride and handle like a 406 coupé should. Particularly if new dampers go on too.

 

Of course, if the back end is sorted, it seems stupid not to sort the front end given strut top bearings are hardly the most expensive items in the world.

 

But if I do all these things the price will go up, obviously!

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Possibly. I'd consider a swap, if anyone's got anything I'd like.  They can even bring bits and finish jobs before taking it away...

 

I liked it a lot to drive and look at. Only reason it's not insured right now is the XJS going on, weirdly I believe it's still taxed, how they do that when a car should have MoT & Insurance, I don't know, but I haven't made a SORN since I'm always thinking "it'll be fixed this week".

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Possibly? 190E in need of an engine, isn't it? Wrong gearbox though... How are the rear subframe mounts, I might know of a 2.0E with a good engine and duff mounts depending on what my friend wants to do with it ;)

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Details: MTD 504

 

Cutting deck etc. intact - all safety interlocks working.

Engine non-running, seemed to have compression. Tried a new coil, no luck, it's sparking though. Suspect flywheel key sheared and timing out. Attempt to remove flywheel & check whilst taking shortcut to brace (no flywheel tool) went A Bit Wrong, and broke a blade on the fan.

 

Needs a replacement engine or someone who has spares & a clue to sort it.

 

Was going to ask £150 for it, and it comes with another B&S powered mower that had a working engine but I raided it to see if the coil was compatible and CBA putting it together because engine aside, the self-propelled bit wasn't working and the control cables had seized.

 

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All the bits for the mowers should be there bar the top of the air cleaner on the ride on because I didn't have that in the first place. The chewing gum tub has various screws & stuff removed :)

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Right, as promised/threatened, price has gone up, because this week it's getting the rear ARB finished and two new strut top bearings (about £40 each plus I'm gonna have the joy of fitting them). Feel free to dive in beforehand... but tested 406 V6 where almost everything works and has just been serviced & has new droplinks, ARB bushes and strut top bearings... it's still a pretty good price, I think :D

 

Alternative option is Roffle @ £12/ticket...

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What's happening with this now? I appear to be in the market for a nice car.

 

Also, silly question, but how is it on juice?

 

 

Current status - MoTd, running (serviced oil & filter, not airfilter yet), front strut bearings need replacing (£40/side, maybe less but that's what Febi with ballbearings costs), rear drop links ready to install, rear ARB free on nearside, needs one bolt doing on offside then new bushes (£14 pair) can be installed.

 

There's a sump oil leak (drips) and one noisy tappet on the forward bank. Might clear with use, the car's had little use for some time hence the seized ARB I expect. Could be reassembled and ready to go in a couple of hours.

 

Has one key with damaged remote switch. Fixable, but I wanted a spare before repairing it. Has a spare bootlid without dent.

 

How it is on fuel is down to how you drive. It's a nice power to weight and will sit around 30-33mpg if you drive sensibly and legally, be aggressive and you'll probably drop it to 20. It's rapid enough without needing aggression, being a manual :)

 

Nice interior, generally pleasant to be in :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

After ordering the wrong part (21mm instead of 22mm except it looks VERY different)...

 

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The other side is a little trickier to do, and I can't hook up the droplinks until I lower the car and get some blocks under the suspension, but the 406 is probably 1/2 hour away from hitting the road. Spray-greasing the strut tops and working the steering a bit seems to have reduced the judder too, which is probably down to dried grease and standing too much - so I'm thinking I don't need new ones, but can just drop the struts, relube the bearings and go.

 

Really tempted to just drive this, it was so nice and with the droplinks & bushes done...

 

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