Thanks for the tips. I have been reading up, some folk run them with no coolant for 2 mins or so, it this what you do? Don't like the sound of it to be fare.
I strongly advise you not to do this, You wouldnt run your engine without putting oil in it would you? Running without coolant You risk warping the head, damaging the new gasket, damaging water pump barings etc.
Running the engine dry is bad advice trotted out by idiots who have at best limited mechanical sympathy and really should know better. I Hate to see this bad advice run out time and again.
You should do the following:
- Choose a good quality gasket, (not a reliant pratsworld one) - I can point you in the right direction if you get stuck.
- Have the Cylinder Head checked and skimmed if needed, a Light skim should only cost Ã‚Â£30 and will be money well spent,
- Make sure the block is as clean as you can get it, I prefer to use a razorblade, followed by wiping down with meths or petrol.
- When fitting the new gasket smear a little grease around the fire ring on both sides of the gasket,
- Ensure all The plain washers and Spring washers are present and in good condition,
- Follow the factory torque sequence and torque down in stages. to 15 ft lb, 20 ft lb, and finally to 25ft lb. Use a decent click type torque wrench, Norbar, britool or similar,
- Torque the 3 bolts on the spark plug side of the head to 15ft lb only. Do these last.
- Refill engine with coolant/ water / oil before restarting,
- Its ok to check the torque after running the engine a few times, but strictly speaking it should not be needed. When overchecking use the factroy sequence and don't exceed the maximum figure. You should not need to go higher than this.
[Edit - I missed the bit where you said you had it all back together. ] Hope it goes well for you when you restart.