DodgyBastard Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 It's not mine. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 It's not mine.Does it start and drive? Take its been off the road for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyBastard Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 As far as I know it doesn't run and has been off the road since 2012. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Still worth the money and then some I would imagine. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 axles £200 on its own Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christine Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 And the tyres , they look new ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 As others have said, if you can't be bothered dropping the engine on the floor, the head can be removed with the engine in the car. groovylee, Joey spud, oldcars and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Cheers, how did you find the job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Taking it off on that particular car was okay, but I had a strip of steel bar and some spacers from a previous Reliant head job to lift the head square. They can be a absolute bastard to shift, it's a bit of a lottery. Although you can stack the odds in your favour with the bar. See here: https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/cylinder-head Now you don't need make spacers if you can't be bothered, just find four large sockets and use some big washers to fill the gap. I've got a picture, but can't find it at the minute. I haven't actually finished that particular job (for various reasons) even though I started on it back in 2010 (or maybe earlier). The gasket had failed in such a way as it wasn't pushing any water out, there was no mixing of oil/water. The only thing it was doing was letting water into the cylinder(s). This odd state of affairs meant I could top up once and bomb down the M6 from Glasgow to Carlisle without a hitch, but the week I was going to and from Springburn from Knightswood, it would re-start with a big steam cloud until it cleared and on the fourth day I couldn't start it due to hydraulic lock. Took all the plugs out and made the mistake of spinning on the starter (water shot out of the plug 'oles and into the footwell rather violently), but once the water was out it would start it up okay.  The other thing to remember is not over-tighten the rocker nuts - it WILL piss out oil then and most rocker covers have divots on the top where some ape has tightened it up. Flip the cover over and bash them back out again with the ball end of a hammer. Then just nip the nuts up in future. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 Taking it off on that particular car was okay, but I had a strip of steel bar and some spacers from a previous Reliant head job to lift the head square. They can be a absolute bastard to shift, it's a bit of a lottery. Although you can stack the odds in your favour with the bar. See here: https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/cylinder-head Now you don't need make spacers if you can't be bothered, just find four large sockets and use some big washers to fill the gap. I've got a picture, but can't find it at the minute. I haven't actually finished that particular job (for various reasons) even though I started on it back in 2010 (or maybe earlier). The gasket had failed in such a way as it wasn't pushing any water out, there was no mixing of oil/water. The only thing it was doing was letting water into the cylinder(s). This odd state of affairs meant I could top up once and bomb down the M6 from Glasgow to Carlisle without a hitch, but the week I was going to and from Springburn from Knightswood, it would re-start with a big steam cloud until it cleared and on the fourth day I couldn't start it due to hydraulic lock. Took all the plugs out and made the mistake of spinning on the starter (water shot out of the plug 'oles and into the footwell rather violently), but once the water was out it would start it up okay.  The other thing to remember is not over-tighten the rocker nuts - it WILL piss out oil then and most rocker covers have divots on the top where some ape has tightened it up. Flip the cover over and bash them back out again with the ball end of a hammer. Then just nip the nuts up in future.Cheers, i have read that site a lot very handy indeed. Tackling the job starting monday night. My radiator contents look like mushroom soup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Oh and while I remember, get a wire coathanger and cut a bit out. If you take the block drain plug out and give it a good rodding. They like to silt up round the rear liner. Erm, don't go mental tightening the thermostat housing. Loads have been broken giving it just one more turn. Plastic top fuel pumps are great for fire brigade roulette. Don't forget to re-torque the head. Either by the old-school Proclaimers method, or on the same day after running up to temp and leaving it at least a hour cooling before giving it another tweak. oldcars and tooSavvy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 Oh and while I remember, get a wire coathanger and cut a bit out. If you take the block drain plug out and give it a good rodding. They like to silt up round the rear liner. Erm, don't go mental tightening the thermostat housing. Loads have been broken giving it just one more turn. Plastic top fuel pumps are great for fire brigade roulette. Don't forget to re-torque the head. Either by the old-school Proclaimers method, or on the same day after running up to temp and leaving it at least a hour cooling before giving it another tweak.Cheers, Mine has a metal fuel pump this was replaced early doors. I will clean the drain block as you said, did it when i got it but i will need done again.Will update here when i start the work, will be next week now as i have a few bits to do on the caravan this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 If you weren't 4000 miles away I would have done it got all the tools,would make it my 11th reliant head gasket change haha.Don't wait 500 miles to retorque,it will have blown again by then, I retorque for 4 or so hot and cold cycles,no driving.the ally expands and contracts that much that I can usually get a full turn on the nuts the first time it's been run.and by the 4th time no movement.never had one go again after doing that. xtriple, oldcars and Eddie Honda 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 If you weren't 4000 miles away I would have done it got all the tools,would make it my 11th reliant head gasket change haha.Don't wait 500 miles to retorque,it will have blown again by then, I retorque for 4 or so hot and cold cycles,no driving.the ally expands and contracts that much that I can usually get a full turn on the nuts the first time it's been run.and by the 4th time no movement.never had one go again after doing that.Thanks for the tips. I have been reading up, some folk run them with no coolant for 2 mins or so, it this what you do? Don't like the sound of it to be fare. If you were nearer i would take up your kind offer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I just bung the coolant in and crack on with the job. Whilst a lot of the sacrifice-a-virgin-at-midnight-on-a-full-moon-whilst-standing-on-one-leg-with-toes-crossed stuff might not be detrimental, some of it isn't really necessary. All that's needed is a good seal. To achieve that, a flat block, liners sticking out within spec, flat head, correctly torqued, correctly re-torqued. Job done. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 I just bung the coolant in and crack on with the job. Whilst a lot of the sacrifice-a-virgin-at-midnight-on-a-full-moon-whilst-standing-on-one-leg-with-toes-crossed stuff might not be detrimental, some of it isn't really necessary. All that's needed is a good seal. To achieve that, a flat block, liners sticking out within spec, flat head, correctly torqued, correctly re-torqued. Job done.Cheers, makes sense mate said the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Yes,I am an advocate of running it dry for approx 4mins,this allows the laquer on the gasket to melt,thus creating the seal,2ithout being disturbed by antifreeze and coolant seeping in. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 Yes,I am an advocate of running it dry for approx 4mins,this allows the laquer on the gasket to melt,thus creating the seal,2ithout being disturbed by antifreeze and coolant seeping in.Thanks, i take it you had no issues from doing this if you have had the pleasure* of doing 10Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Battle will comence next week on fixing the OMGHGF. I will take as may pics as i can when im doing it. It should all go well* as never done anything like this before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 I made a start of the fixing of the OMGHGF. Interior stripped out, some very dodgy fag lighter wiring found Shame the last owner cut a hole in the dash for it, need to find something to cover it up. Oil dropped, coolant dropped, all hoses off, carb off, rocker cover off. May have found the cause of the small* oil leak. Rocker gasket was like a biscut, crumbled and bits missing . Left the bolts for the manifold soaking and back tonight to do more.  What is odd in the coolant is very clean, oil ok too. Pipes clean but radiator sludgy. I suppose i will one know when i remove the head. Banger Kenny and uk_senator 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 i do hope that it didnt just need the coolant system flushing out,perhaps its had headgasket done in the past,hence clean oil etc,but wasnt flushed out of crap? oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 i do hope that it didnt just need the coolant system flushing out,perhaps its had headgasket done in the past,hence clean oil etc,but wasnt flushed out of crap?It had a new radiator fitted by a mate, and a new waterpump when i got it. Ran for about 12 months fine with no oil sludge, the oil sludge only appeared abut two months back. I was expecting the coolant to be a lot worse what it was, just the radiator that sludge. Head not off yet, what would you do, keep going with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 if you have got that far then yes,but be prepared for a fight! and check the block carefully for cracks around the studs oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Thanks Dan i will do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 top tip,leave the manifolds on. gives something to grab/lever /hit to get the head off! groovylee, oldcars and Eddie Honda 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Good idea, let you know how i get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 CGSB, mat_the_cat, Asimo and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Got the head off last night. Gasket looked ok but one head bolt on the back at the drivers side was only on finger tight . You could see where the oil had leaked though into one of the small waterways as the back, hense why a very small oil amount was in the water. Also explains the oil leak from the back, with this and the rocker gasket. Also noticed one engine mount is broken, front drivers side. Is this easy to replace at the same time, any tips? CGSB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 I would thoroughly check the head stud that had a loose nut in case the stud thread is stripped in the block.Hopefully tightening it was just forgotten by the last guy in there. oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Well done SR, keep at it nigel bickle and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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