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Reliant Rialto


oldcars

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Collected this, plan was to mot today but it blew a lamp bulb on the way home so was left there. Had a quick look but two of the screws holding the grill on seem to have seized. Handy this needs to come off to see why is up with the headlamp bulb. 

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No it doesn't.... Just reach up from underneath the body :-) infact the grill provides no access to the headlight bulb.

On my Rialto i remove the grill, then the three screws holding bezel on the lamp, then remove it and unplug the connector from the bulb, then replace and put it all back together. Is there an easier way?

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Cable was 'almost' broken on first test, mate adjusted it.

Tester yanked it on rollers, cable frayed and stretched.

Needs new cable.

You should be very grateful it didn't break on an hill and run into the back of a Triumph Herald like mine did.

I always leave mine in gear  :mrgreen:

 

Wish i have just got a new cable rather than getting the other one adjusted and greased. The cable is now on back order.

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I had all the good intentions to fit this but in the cold and wet i gave up. Took it to my pals ramp and he fitted it. Gave me a chance to get the clutch adjusted better and the piviot bit greased. End result is this. Result, it has taken me long enough.

 

MOT History

Mileage recorded at test, parts failed or had minor problems

Date tested19 February 2018 PASS
Mileage38,796 miles
Test locationunavailable until further notice
Expiry date18 February 2019
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Put Asda fuel in this the other week as i was on fumes. Ever since its been a nightmare to start in the mornings. Ok later on in the day but churning away in the mornings. Never had this bother for years with it. Put some decent fuel in it last night and went for a longer run. Its running spot on but again hard going to start this morning. Hopefully it will get better.

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the choke should be on the right hand side,but shouldnt pull the dash out as there is an access panel behind it thats screwed to the body,so maybe the whole panel is loose

From memory when i was doing the head gasket, the gold collar that holds the choke into the dash, behind the middle access panel, was only held on by a couple of threads. In sure its that, will get a look at the weekend and pop the drivers side panel off for a look.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's usually dirty solenoid contacts which cause the sticking problem and yes, a clout with a mallet will often shock them back into service. If the voltage dips significantly when it sticks, it could be a variety of more mechanical problems - it is easy to check by trying to start with the lights switched on. Lights going dim when the starter switch is operated indicates that the motor is absorbing lots of amps (as it should). Remedy is to remove the starter and check the bearings and the engagement mechanicals. Don't lubricate the engagement gubbins because that will harbour dust and crud and jam it up again. A thorough clean is usually all that is required.   Lights not going dim means that the solenoid contacts are worn, possibly the starter motor brushes are stuck or worn or the ignition switch is getting a bit tired.  Apart from access, it should be easy to diagnose and fix when the hammer blows cease to work.

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It's usually dirty solenoid contacts which cause the sticking problem and yes, a clout with a mallet will often shock them back into service. If the voltage dips significantly when it sticks, it could be a variety of more mechanical problems - it is easy to check by trying to start with the lights switched on. Lights going dim when the starter switch is operated indicates that the motor is absorbing lots of amps (as it should). Remedy is to remove the starter and check the bearings and the engagement mechanicals. Don't lubricate the engagement gubbins because that will harbour dust and crud and jam it up again. A thorough clean is usually all that is required.   Lights not going dim means that the solenoid contacts ar worn, possibly the starter motor brushes are stuck or worn or the ignition switch is getting a bit tired.  Apart from access, it should be easy to diagnose and fix when the hammer blows cease to work.

Thanks Ray, i will pop the lights on tonight and start it up. I will let you know.

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Started ok last night, lights did dim when i started it up. Started this morning ok to but it was still not 100%. I will need to get a look at it. Need to dig out the haynes manual and find out where the bendix is on it, i have no idea  :-o

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Yes, technically if the starter shaft has a fast, chunky spiral 'throw' which, on starter rotation, kicks the cog in to mesh with the flywheel - that is the Bendix device.  Later starters are of the pre-engaged type i.e. the starter drive cog is pushed in to mesh with the flywheel by a meaty solenoid and lever prior to rotation.  People do still refer to the lever and drive bit as a Bendix, even though it isn't.  Good luck.  Sounds eminently fixable but you won't have to attack it immediately as it is starting mostly ok.

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