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Reliant Rialto


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448 replies to this topic

#391 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 04:08 PM

Mate just text, all fixed. Will collect it Thursday and take it to the MOT station as its now expired. Front wheel bearing, kingpin, and drop link, new brake pipe, front and one rear cylinder and new pads fitted to. Hand brake is adjusted too he says. Result. Been missing the wee car.


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#392 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 04:25 PM

Collected this, plan was to mot today but it blew a lamp bulb on the way home so was left there. Had a quick look but two of the screws holding the grill on seem to have seized. Handy this needs to come off to see why is up with the headlamp bulb. 



#393 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 09:08 PM

No it doesn't.... Just reach up from underneath the body :-) infact the grill provides no access to the headlight bulb.

#394 OFFLINE   bub2006

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 11:33 PM

I remember when my headlamp blew in my robin and it was snowing. A slag hammer was needed to get through the snow stuck under it!
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#395 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 11:15 AM

No it doesn't.... Just reach up from underneath the body :-) infact the grill provides no access to the headlight bulb.

On my Rialto i remove the grill, then the three screws holding bezel on the lamp, then remove it and unplug the connector from the bulb, then replace and put it all back together. Is there an easier way?



#396 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 11:56 AM

yes,reach up underneath the wing and pull the bulb holder out :-)


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#397 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 12:03 PM

yes,reach up underneath the wing and pull the bulb holder out :-)

Cheers, that should make things a bit easier.



#398 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 02:22 PM

I actually give up.

 

Reason(s) for failure
  • Parking brake lever has no reserve travel (3.1.6b)
  • Brake cable has wires broken and is significantly weakened (3.5.1b)


#399 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 02:24 PM

need a new handbrake cable,and it its over adjusted(due to needing replacement) ill take it off your hands :-P


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#400 ONLINE   Mally

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 03:15 PM

Cable was 'almost' broken on first test, mate adjusted it.

Tester yanked it on rollers, cable frayed and stretched.

Needs new cable.

You should be very grateful it didn't break on an hill and run into the back of a Triumph Herald like mine did.


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#401 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 04:08 PM

Cable was 'almost' broken on first test, mate adjusted it.

Tester yanked it on rollers, cable frayed and stretched.

Needs new cable.

You should be very grateful it didn't break on an hill and run into the back of a Triumph Herald like mine did.

I always leave mine in gear  :mrgreen:

 

Wish i have just got a new cable rather than getting the other one adjusted and greased. The cable is now on back order.



#402 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 09:26 AM

New cable has arrived. Might have a go at this myself. Looking at it i don't think i have to take the drums off, is this correct?



#403 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 12:49 PM

correct,two clevis pins with split pins,then hardest bit is getting it off the pulley,make sure thats well greased.make sure your drums are adjusted first before adjusting the cable


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#404 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 01:43 PM

I had all the good intentions to fit this but in the cold and wet i gave up. Took it to my pals ramp and he fitted it. Gave me a chance to get the clutch adjusted better and the piviot bit greased. End result is this. Result, it has taken me long enough.

 

MOT History

Mileage recorded at test, parts failed or had minor problems

Date tested19 February 2018 PASS
Mileage38,796 miles
Test locationunavailable until further notice
Expiry date18 February 2019

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#405 ONLINE   Mally

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 04:10 PM

Excellent! It will soon be the only one left and be worth squillions.


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#406 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 08:41 AM

Put Asda fuel in this the other week as i was on fumes. Ever since its been a nightmare to start in the mornings. Ok later on in the day but churning away in the mornings. Never had this bother for years with it. Put some decent fuel in it last night and went for a longer run. Its running spot on but again hard going to start this morning. Hopefully it will get better.



#407 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 09:38 AM

Now we have decent fuel in this its starting better. I think the lockring that holds the choke behind the fiberglass panel has come off, as the choke pulls the dash panel out. Going to sort this at the weekend if the snow plays ball. 


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#408 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 11:27 AM

the choke should be on the right hand side,but shouldnt pull the dash out as there is an access panel behind it thats screwed to the body,so maybe the whole panel is loose


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#409 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 12:26 PM

the choke should be on the right hand side,but shouldnt pull the dash out as there is an access panel behind it thats screwed to the body,so maybe the whole panel is loose

From memory when i was doing the head gasket, the gold collar that holds the choke into the dash, behind the middle access panel, was only held on by a couple of threads. In sure its that, will get a look at the weekend and pop the drivers side panel off for a look.



#410 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 09:13 AM

Took 4 turns of the key to get this started this morning. I think the starter was sticking, battery is fine on volt meter. Started fine after i had fueled up too. What can be done about a sticking starter?



#411 OFFLINE   bub2006

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 09:16 AM

Trying twatting it with hammer and some wd40. Worked on my robin.
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#412 ONLINE   Mally

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 10:06 AM

My first Reliant was aluminium body, had a big cover over the engine inside the car.

Pull back cover, hit starter with hammer, simple.

Only 6v though so didn't spin for long.


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#413 ONLINE   RayMK

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 04:02 PM

It's usually dirty solenoid contacts which cause the sticking problem and yes, a clout with a mallet will often shock them back into service. If the voltage dips significantly when it sticks, it could be a variety of more mechanical problems - it is easy to check by trying to start with the lights switched on. Lights going dim when the starter switch is operated indicates that the motor is absorbing lots of amps (as it should). Remedy is to remove the starter and check the bearings and the engagement mechanicals. Don't lubricate the engagement gubbins because that will harbour dust and crud and jam it up again. A thorough clean is usually all that is required.   Lights not going dim means that the solenoid contacts are worn, possibly the starter motor brushes are stuck or worn or the ignition switch is getting a bit tired.  Apart from access, it should be easy to diagnose and fix when the hammer blows cease to work.


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#414 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 04:21 PM

It's usually dirty solenoid contacts which cause the sticking problem and yes, a clout with a mallet will often shock them back into service. If the voltage dips significantly when it sticks, it could be a variety of more mechanical problems - it is easy to check by trying to start with the lights switched on. Lights going dim when the starter switch is operated indicates that the motor is absorbing lots of amps (as it should). Remedy is to remove the starter and check the bearings and the engagement mechanicals. Don't lubricate the engagement gubbins because that will harbour dust and crud and jam it up again. A thorough clean is usually all that is required.   Lights not going dim means that the solenoid contacts ar worn, possibly the starter motor brushes are stuck or worn or the ignition switch is getting a bit tired.  Apart from access, it should be easy to diagnose and fix when the hammer blows cease to work.

Thanks Ray, i will pop the lights on tonight and start it up. I will let you know.



#415 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 10:06 PM

Clean Bendix and lube with graphite powder.
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#416 OFFLINE   somewhatfoolish

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 10:51 PM

Dry lube is an alternative to graphite and anything called Turbo Lube is bound to make starting at least 300% faster*.

 

turbolube_medium.jpg


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#417 ONLINE   RayMK

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 11:45 PM

Clean Bendix and lube with graphite powder.

 

.....or rub the relevant surfaces with an artist's 4b pencil.  I've always done it on spark plug threads as well - less mess than copperslip and it works equally well.  


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#418 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 09:15 AM

Started ok last night, lights did dim when i started it up. Started this morning ok to but it was still not 100%. I will need to get a look at it. Need to dig out the haynes manual and find out where the bendix is on it, i have no idea  :-o



#419 OFFLINE   bub2006

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 10:06 AM

Remove starter and Bendix is the gear that gets thrown forward when starter engaged. A shaft with cog on that engages on flywheel to turn engine over.
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#420 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 10:18 AM

Cheers bub. Now i understand the bendix will be sticking hence no starting.  :-D






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