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You can sometimes get what you want - Land Rover 90 Now Alvis TA14


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so would one winter kill it and how badly do they leak?

From Bob the Morris man, no one winter ouldnt kill it, but like any old BL tin you need to routinely maintain it - grease the nipples, change the oil and every summer rub down and re treat the woodwork with a decent preservative such as sikkens. The secret i is starting out with a good frame and not one that has dry or wet rot in the ends already. Wooden frame parts are relatively inexpensive (this from the man who just makes his own as and when) and can be replaced a bit at a time.

He keeps trying to persuade my son to get a traveler and pop a 1.3 A series in it. My son disagrees and wants a V8 something or other....

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You could consider an early CR-V/Rav which are more complicated but are a whole world better in reliability than Landrovers or Morris Minors.

 

 

The reason the parts for theold crocks your looking at are available is that they always need work to keep them going so parts are cheap and usually crap.

 

Buy amk1 giffer owned CR-V with a base spec and it will last you years if you service it, plenty of parts in the scrappy and they share engines with similar age Accords not that much will go wrong.

 

Change the rear diff viscous clutch fluid and the 4 wheel drive is reliable.

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What I'm after is practical advice/experience of the Minor Traveller and the Land Rover. 

 

They're not hearing you, brother.

 

(Apart from Ken and Taff and sorry if I missed anyone else)

 

 

 

Maybe change the thread title to 'Tell me about series Land Rovers'?  @Albert Ross is your man on these - where is Albert, anyway?  Mr Ross to the enquiry desk please!

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Morris Minor you'll need to talk to Tony Hawks about them.

 

I've had several Minors and even ones with wood as a structural feature and do really like them but an un-modded one is just not up to being a useful means of transport but nice occasional use second car.  Struggling to reach terminal velocity with a 44 ton artic behind you will age you prematurely. Anyone with a screwdriver can steal it. Car in front (with ABS) stops at roundabout and guess what happens next. If modded it's difficult to know where not to throw money, engine + 5 speed box with discs at the front is a start, then a rear axle to cope and some real shocks at the front if only the metalwork didn't rot over the past 50 years there'd be something to bolt it all to.   I'd go for something 20/30 years younger if it's your only car and then an occasional short trip with dogs on a motorway would not be so frightening.

 

Had a few series 2 and 3 Landys as work vehicles (UK, Europe, Africa, Asia) but was so happy when they started giving us Toyota HiLux 4x4 instead.

 

How about a Citroen XZ diesel plus an old moped (or two) hidden in the cupboard under the stairs. Here's one which is available.

 

post-7239-0-36514900-1437648928_thumb.jpg

 

and this fit's in the boot

 

post-7239-0-04566100-1437649045_thumb.jpg

 

and has been here

 

 

where dogs are welcome and only 1500km drive.  Welcome to retirement.

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I have had loads of later Series Land Rovers, Defenders, Rangies and been lucky enough to have driven virtually every type to have been built. They are all great but you can't beat a Series 1. They are the dog's bollocks. 80s are my favourite, I always wanted one and it hasn't disappointed. Friends have Series 1 86s, 88s, 107s and 109s they are also brill.

 

I've had mine a few years now and use it every day, much for the things you describe. Generally it is very reliable as long as given regular exercise, silly things like the SU pump points sticking and the dynamo belt going slack are the only things which really have let it down.

 

As you have had them before you will know how they drive and all that. The 2 litre engine is mega under-rated, it's got loads of torque and is a real pleasure to drive. Sounds nicer and is more economical than a 2.25. Expensive to rebuild, though but they tend to keep going even when totally borked. It is not fast but will keep up with traffic, motorways are a bit grim but I have no overdrive - it runs at HGV speed though.

 

Spares I think are not quite as much of a problem as some make out... sure a few bits are expensive but they tend to be those parts you would seek during a restoration back to standard spec, not basic wear and tear stuff. Dunsfold have virtually everything but can be a bit snooty; see also LRSeries (Mr Blanchard junior) and John Craddock both of whom are still dipping into ex-MoD stocks bought 40 years ago. The Series One Club also have a spares scheme and various goodies are being remanufactured. Electrics are all vintage Lucas so autojumbles can be very fruitful; a new Autosparks loom isn't dear and is about as simple as you can get this side of an Austin 7. Brakes can be expensive to sort - I had my master cylinder and fronts bored then sleeved in stainless with new seals. Fit and forget. Series 2/3 rears fit using BMC/BL adapters on the hydraulic fittings and only the most dedicated rivet licker will notice.

 

An 80 will be the most pricey, and arguably the least practical. There's bugger all room in the back, no dash storage, the steering is shite (and alloy boxes crack), yada yada. I love them though (I think you have owned one before? So probably 'get it'). 86s and 88s are a bit more refined, more room, ride better etc. You mentioned the want for a Station Wagon so I assume one of these would be what you really want.

 

A Minerva is a top vehicle, there are still loads around barely out of service with the Belgian army, the ones I have driven have all run and gone well. They are all steel but generally only rot really badly around the windscreen which is interchangeable for the galvanised Solihull job anyway. If you buy from the continent they will be cheaper but a lot of people seem to be having the same idea now. All are of course LHD and soft tops, so perhaps not ideal.

 

The values are a bit mad now but if you have always wanted one and are going to keep it...  :-D

 

Edit to add this which is fabbo: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-1956-Land-Rover-Series-1-petrol-/171863984907?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2803e44b0b

 

$_57.JPG

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Don't bother with the Morris Traveller unless you are going to keep it in a heated garage. Even the ones that look sound are only one winter away from despair. 

 

Wooden frame. In British weather?  Forget it.

 

Consider a Minor Van instead. No easier to find but no wood to rot and just as practical for dogs. Can be fitted with side windows if essential.

 

However, as someone else approaching gifferdom, the Land rover does appeal to me from the maintenance point of view. Easy to get under, to jack up on those rare occasions it is necessary, engine work without bending down as far.....

 

Petrol engined 90, easy to make into a station wagon.post-17481-0-46906700-1437651471_thumb.png

 

£2500  If a V8 doesn't appeal, be patient, there are 4 cyl. ones out there.

 

http://www.gumtree.com/p/land-rover/land-rover-lr90-4c-3-dr-with-new-soft-top-low-mileage-tow-bar-hard-top-drives-superb-any-trial-welc/1125247995

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

As some of you may have twigged, I have purchased the red beastie seen above. There will be no collection thread as Mr Spud has kindly agreed to bring it down, but it has given me an excuse to hit ebay for some bits for it (don't worry no checker-plate will be applied) but I have bought an Ifor Williams canopy for it so that the dogs can be transported. I'm hoping it will be my main car fairly quickly so my Suzuki Alto will be going, although after 43000 miles in two years I doubt that I shall get much for it

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YOU GET WHAT YOU NEED...AW YEAH.

 

Me coat? I was just going anyway, ta wack innit eh.

 

Nice car. RESULT. :grinning-smiley-043:

 

Happy :dog: :dog: :dog: :dog: happy humans.  WINNAR.

 

P.S. I've never seen one of those over 'ere; closest thing was a Defender in a shop once. But those cost 50 G's and we don't get that much rain here in SoCal...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm still smiling and pretty sure I have made the right decision, so much so that today Webuyanycar has become the new owner of my Suzuki Alto.

 

I've been using it for work but otherwise not done much with it so far; ok I've fitted the Ifor Wiliams top to the back, fixed an indicator and reverse lamp and sorted the blow in the exhaust. Next on the list is replace the barrel on the driver's door lock. I bought a pair of barrels so will do the passenger one as well to match the key, but that can wait for the weekend. It's a pleasure to have a vehicle again that's like a big meccano set.

 

post-3477-0-67007300-1442504309_thumb.jpg

 

I will be putting the spare wheel back on the bonnet and a dog mattress in the back for them when they go out in it.

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Just seen this thread and have to say you made the right choice in the end. A well maintained landie will out live us all.

 

I'd hesitate on putting the spare on the bonnet as they reduce visibility quite a bit and make it so fooking heavy that you have to take it off every time you want to do the slightest thing in the engine bay. Have a look at swing away carriers as an alternative or fit a hydraulic ram under the bonnet.

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Fairy nuff, I was just thinking about what you said in the original post.

 

 


 

A Land Rover is as easy, if not easier to work on, but the parts are bigger and heavier, something I have to bear in mind as I get more weak and feeble, but at least I could probably get under it to keep the chassis in good order without jacking it up.

 

 

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Sorry hairnet, the Alto has already gone, I took the thirty pieces of silver offered by WBAC as I hate having to deal with people when selling cars.

 

Today I have done a couple more little jobs on it, The switch panel was cracked so I got a new one, two accessible screws to undo pop out the hazard and panel light switches. I noticed a bit of green corrosion on the panel light switch connections (the panel lights weren't working) so cleaned them up and I now have working panel lights. Replaced windscreen washer pump so I now have working washers.

 

The driver's door lock was seized, either that or needed a different key to the one I have. I ordered a pair of barrels and decided to have a go at changing them. All the door fittings and panel unscrew easily, but I needed a socket for the window winder handle. (I have now stuck a piece of red tape on the top of my little used socket set) After I had picked up all the sockets and put them back in order the handle came off quite easily.

 

I peeled off the plastic inside the door and took a look at the back of the lock. Eventually with my best reading glasses on I could see the head of a small bolt on the back of where the locking barrel is. Tried getting a socket on it before I realised it had a locking tab. bent those back and unscrewed the bolt.

 

I withdrew the piece from inside the door. That was my first mistake. Then the locking barrel fom the other side, I noticed two small ball bearings drop out, one never to be seen again.

 

I then stupidly reassembled without the ball bearing and surprise, whilst it would unlock the door if locked, it would not lock the handle from outside. Obviously those little ball bearings did something important. had a closer look at the bits and worked out where they went and what they did. Spent a while crawling around underneath the Land Rover trying to find the missing one. I eventually gave up and decided to put it back together with just the one.

 

Unfortunately this was not easy, as I didn't have anything to reverse gravity, and it kept falling out before I could slide the one piece in that holds it there as it had to go in first. I then had my brainwave as a distant memory came back of using a blob of grease to hold things in place. I did not have any grease handy, surprising when it's a Land Rover I'm working on, so I improvised using a bit of Savlon (well it heals things so it can't do any harm can it?). This worked, slid in the back bit and then the barrel the other side, bolted up the little bolt and it all works; I can now lock the driver's door from the outside.

 

I now know, when I do the passenger side, not to pull that internal piece out, but to use the key to pull the barrel out on the outside.

 

A few minutes later the door panel and bits were all back on. I then had a look at the door check which wasn't working. (The door has obviously gone into the hinge post a few times). Unscrewed the cover to find a bolt missing, found a suitable sized bolt in my pile of random crap and now that the bracket is secure the check strap works.

 

I just had time to put all the bits away and clean up a bit before taking the dog to the vet to have his stiches out.

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Following the success* of changing the lock barrel on the driver's door, I thought I'd do the passenger side while my tea was cooking.

 

This time it was a lot easier.

 

Start by removing the door furniture

post-3477-0-77258800-1442679290_thumb.jpg

 

This time I did keep the socket set the right way up

post-3477-0-24458200-1442679373_thumb.jpg

 

You should be able to see a little bolt head with a tab washer in the hole

post-3477-0-26143300-1442679418_thumb.jpg

 

Bent the tabs back and unscrewed

post-3477-0-90403200-1442679520_thumb.jpg

 

Used key to jiggle the barrel out from the other side

post-3477-0-05382200-1442679557_thumb.jpg

 

In the words of Mr Haynes "Reassembly is the reverse of the above"

 

The first time it took over an hour (but that did include sorting out my socket set), this time less than half an hour, most of the time being spent putting all the screws back in the door panel

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Amazingly all the screws came out and went back in, without the usual rounded off screw-heads. Structurally it is very, very, good, I've seen much newer ones an awful lot worse. My aim is to keep on top of it and, hopefully by doing that, avoid any major rot in future. It's nice to have a vehicle where I don't have to worry about the odd scratch/dent, it used to really annoy me when I collected car park dings, now I won't be too bothered.

 

 

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