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Rover 75 Diesel


oldcars

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have this back now and a lighter wallet :)

New clutch is in, lighter and better it is too. Caliper was rebuilt so that saved a few quid. Reverse lights and parking sensors now work too. New bit of loom added from  scrap car and some dodgy wiring fixed on the back lights. Waft me up scotty!

I started adding up all the costs on this last night, stopped and had a strong lager i had bought before it cost more that the clutch replacement  :mrgreen:

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Women as a rule won't be seen dead in a 75. Therefore turning up as the groom in one makes that statement that you WON'T change your ways now your married. You WILL continue to embarrass them.

It was the bride i took to the church in it, she loved it  :-D

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Sticking caliper has been replaced now, started sticking again.

Got some time last night to look at the rear lights. For ages one bulb as been out but the bulb is ok. Kerbside top bulb. I thought it was down to water in the lights, so i replaced the lights with some MG7 ones. This fixed the issue for about two days. Couple of the connector pins on the loom looked rusty so i cleaned these.

The bulb only has one filament. This bulb works as should when the brakes are pressed, but when the lights are on it does not light up. It always works as a brake light. I am lost, i thought for a bulb to work as two things is had to have two filaments? 

I have caravan electrics on the car as well. What do i need to do to get to the bottom of this?

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There is one bulb for taillight and one for brake light (in each cluster).  They don't use dual-filament bulbs.

 

There is however a "clever" BMW feature that will illuminate the brakelight bulb at a lower intensity* if the tailight one has failed.

 

I suspect this is the heart of your issue - once you get the proper tailight bulb (and the brakelight) working, all will be well.

 

 

 

*fairly sure this uses pulse width modulation - like some Corsas and Vectras - which is indeed a way of using one bulb with a single filament for tail and stop.  The difference here is it only does it in "emergency" not as a matter of course(a)

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There is one bulb for taillight and one for brake light (in each cluster).  They don't use dual-filament bulbs.

 

There is however a "clever" BMW feature that will illuminate the brakelight bulb at a lower intensity if the tailight one has failed.

 

I suspect this is the heart of your issue - once you get the proper tailight bulb working, all will be well.

Thanks, i understand but have no idea how i go about fixing this. I think i firstly need to find out what is meant to work when, on these MG7 lights. I have a feeling its a wiring issue as the same thing happened on the standard rear lights. If i wiggled the connector it fixed itself, but this no longer is a quick fix.

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A beard on the R75 forums tried squeezing the bulb holders (bulbs out, obvs) to make them a better contact.

 

I'm not familiar with the Mg7 lights but I imagine they are the same in everything but appearance.

 

You need to get the "proper" taillights working - also not sure if it applies to R75, but many canbus systems will stop power to a circuit if there's too much current draw - so make sure you have the right bulbs in the right places and no short circuits.

 

Also - everything here points to the possibility of an earth problem.

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Will both sides be earthed? This could be the issue as im sure this all started when i replaced the foam backing on the lights due to a leak years back. I cannot remember this side having an earth.

 

Could the connections be the issue as i am sure all the bulbs are ok.

 

This is the bit i cut off a scrap car a few weeks back so i could play without braking anything. Two of the pins are rusty but i have cleaned them up the best i can on the car.

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Both sides are earthed through the connector - the black wires go back to earth points E10 and E11 - unfortunately I can't find a diagram for where they are - but will be in the boot somewhere.

 

Also you have just reminded me of a Volvo 360 I used to have.  The indicators used to blow a fuse every now and again - it was infuriating - until I figured out that it happened in wet weather because the trailer socket was filling with water on longer trips in the wet and shorting out the system.  Might be worth a look?   

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Super cheers. I know the earth is fine and clean then as it was looked at the other day. 

Looks like this is just going to be a case of checking everything. Towing electrics are all well as i towed the caravan the other week and all caravan lights were spot on.

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