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(DIY Service?) CRV Another MOT.


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121 replies to this topic

#61 ONLINE   omegod

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 01:18 PM

I do a fair bit of mobile servicing and tend to charge £99 for quality oil, oil,air and ,where needed, fuel filter, fluid top up's as well as new plugs. This usually leaves me with 40-50 quid for my time which I think is fair as the rest of the car gets a good look over with any advice left for the owner.  

 

Engine flush...i'd rather boil my balls ! 



#62 OFFLINE   gordonbennet

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 01:58 PM

Can't recall ever using flushing oil, if i get a new to me petrol car and if after giving it an oil change it dirties the oil quickly i give it another change after about a thousand miles, that usually works, both the Subaru and Landcruiser the oil is staying clean as a clean thing.

 

Diesels not so easy to tell with some makes with nooks and crannies that don't allow a full drain, so tend to go by what state the visible parts inside the filler cap are like, and what the dipstick and sump drain plug looks like (and have a poke nose inside sump if possible), any doubts a second change sooner.


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#63 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 05:11 PM

I use tweet5 but only 5% discount. I used to use mbclub30 but that and yours now don't work. We need bigger discounts!


It might not work because they have another promotion on at the moment.
2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
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1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
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#64 OFFLINE   Parky

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 07:15 PM

Now, everyone speak after me!
 
I will not put any hocus pocus snake oil into my engine.
 
Again, all together now!
 
I will not put any hocus pocus snake oil into my engine.
I will not put any hocus pocus snake oil into my engine.
 
And once more! Una voce!
 
I will not put any hocus pocus snake oil into my engine.
 
Has this now been understood by everyone, or are there still any questions?


Yeah, but that nice Quentin Wilson wouldn't lie to us in exchange for money, would he?? I need never need rebuild an engine because of his wonderful Amsoil stuff. It's got particles in it, and we all know that particles are good for an engine don't we?
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#65 ONLINE   Pillock

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 07:25 PM

Yes, particles are good for everything - engines, shiny hair, oiling your snakes. I couldn't live without particles.

 

Quentin certainly wouldn't lie in exchange for money. He once accidentally slipped with a jewellers screwdrivers set near a series of car odometers, but that was a misunderstanding.


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#66 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 07:33 PM

I used an engine flush on the Forester when I changed the oil - not sure how much good it did but it certainly made the oil drain out faster, and it was only 2 quid or so.  I also got a jen you whine Subaru oil filter off the Bay for only a fiver more than the cheapest Chinese pattern crap.  The oil I used was a grade thicker than what it says in the book (I usually do that on higher mileage engines), but still rather more sophisticated than the Asda 20W50 mineral oil I use in all the old stuff.



#67 OFFLINE   Parky

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 10:46 PM

I noticed that Comma flushing oil is more expensive than a supermarket or DIY store conventional oil. I would be inclined to use some cheap stuff that meets normal spec for a few hundred miles in order to clean up some of the gunk, and then put in some decent stuff with a new filter.

Daft question but has anyone ever tried brimming an engine with diesel or petrol in order to dissolve gunk? Part of me says it's a bloody stupid idea but another part of me says it would probably work. Please feel free to assassinate my character forthwith.

For the record, my tame mechanic cleans out manky gearboxes by filling them with diesel and letting them soak for a bit. Seems to work well!
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#68 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 11:02 PM

I'll just leave this here...

 

http://mustangforums...h-this-car.html


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#69 OFFLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 11:12 PM

I took in a Peugeot 306 diesel that was owned by a lady for the last 10 years. NEVER changed the oil. It was like jelly and wouldn`t come out. 

 

Put some diesel into the oil and ran the car for a bit. It seemed to work. Pretty sure engine flush is just something similar to petrol/ diesel/ paraffin


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#70 ONLINE   forddeliveryboy

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 11:49 PM

Use paraffin in careful amounts when the filter's almost rotten through and the oil's turned into 50w320. Just don't rev or load the engine with thinner inside, just use it to dissolve sticky old oil at idle.



#71 OFFLINE   gordonbennet

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 02:51 PM

I took in a Peugeot 306 diesel that was owned by a lady for the last 10 years. NEVER changed the oil. It was like jelly and wouldn`t come out. 

 

Put some diesel into the oil and ran the car for a bit. It seemed to work. Pretty sure engine flush is just something similar to petrol/ diesel/ paraffin

 

Bloody hell, when i was but a lad the tyre place i worked for was owned by the tightest bastard ever walked this earth, we had a few Tranny vans all with the good old Perkins 4108 engine, gutless sod but would go on for ever, which is just as well.

 

Once, and it was once he actually agreed to fund an oil change on one of them, just one though, can't remember why maybe the oil pressure light wouldn't go out, when we'd all recovered from shock and got back up off the floor we undone the drain plug, nothing nada, red hot the fugger was and we had to poke about with bloody sticks in the plug hole till eventually we were able to dig some coal out the sump,  if Scargill had seen us he'd have the miners picketing the dump for taking their jobs..

 

That was my first job and a superb lesson in how NOT to look after vehicles.


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#72 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 09:36 AM

Most people buying a car for a thousand or so will be uninterested in history, so long as it runs well they will probably chance an arm on it. Myself on the other hand I'd like to see at least some evidence of maintenance in the last few years. A few dog eared service books from 10 years ago doesn't mean much now.

#73 OFFLINE   LC Torana

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 10:04 AM

I'll just leave this here...

 

http://mustangforums...h-this-car.html

Honestly, I couldn't breathe for laughing so much.  Just brilliant.


Before you criticize anyone, walk a mile in their shoes.  That way, after you've criticized them, you're a mile away and you've got their shoes.


#74 OFFLINE   Bren

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 10:19 AM

Most people buying a car for a thousand or so will be uninterested in history, so long as it runs well they will probably chance an arm on it. Myself on the other hand I'd like to see at least some evidence of maintenance in the last few years. A few dog eared service books from 10 years ago doesn't mean much now.


I beg to differ - people want new tyres/ brakes/ unlimited mileage warranty for a grand.

This price range seems to attrat the biggest mouthbreathers.
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#75 OFFLINE   Taff

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 10:44 AM

I noticed that Comma flushing oil is more expensive than a supermarket or DIY store conventional oil. I would be inclined to use some cheap stuff that meets normal spec for a few hundred miles in order to clean up some of the gunk, and then put in some decent stuff with a new filter.

Daft question but has anyone ever tried brimming an engine with diesel or petrol in order to dissolve gunk? Part of me says it's a bloody stupid idea but another part of me says it would probably work. Please feel free to assassinate my character forthwith.

For the record, my tame mechanic cleans out manky gearboxes by filling them with diesel and letting them soak for a bit. Seems to work well!

 

I've brimmed engines which were seized. I used red diesel (because it was there and free, not for any great scientific purpose). In both cases it worked and unstuck the engine. It took a lot to fill all 8 bores, mind you.


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so, it's 2am & I'm driving past prostitutes in short strappy dresses with bare arms and legs. I want to stop and offer them 10 minutes in a heated car, but no police officer is going to believe that.


#76 ONLINE   stephen01

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 12:36 PM

I beg to differ - people want new tyres/ brakes/ unlimited mileage warranty for a grand.

This price range seems to attrat the biggest mouthbreathers.

 

Yep, they expect brand new for this money, not something that will easily be 10+ years old and covered 100K plus, then they'll point out a scratch and expect 200 quid off..


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#77 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 01:28 PM

Most recent car I bought had a sheaf of bills from last 3 years - much more relevant than a couple of tax discs from 2003 and an oil change at 32,000 (car had done 114k)

I think it just depends, some people are very realistic as to what they are getting, others are part of the 'Don't get done get Dom' brigade, howling in outrage as the £600 Fiesta they bagged six months ago requires a track rod end or something.
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#78 ONLINE   Tamworthbay

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 03:53 PM

Never tried it myself but I wonder if using a diesel oil in a petrol car would act as a mild flush as they have a lot higher levels of detergent in them. But there is always the risk of loosening off something that has been stuck for ages and then finds its way into something critical. I never use flushing oil but always put a cheap oil in any car I get and use it for a couple of weeks before swapping out to better stuff.
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#79 OFFLINE   worldofceri

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 05:27 PM

I'll just leave this here...
 
http://mustangforums...h-this-car.html

 
LOLZ!
 

 I decided to go ahead and flush it to make sure all the bad stuff got out. I hooked up the hose, ran water through the engine, started it up and was waiting for the water to come out clean (The engine never went above idle so I was told this would be ok). Anyways, About 3 minutes into this, then engine starts shaking and shuts off. I figured it was all cleaned out so I plugged it up, added the oil and figured I was ready to go. WRONG! The car won't freaking start now.[/size]


135264.png 797844.png 865455.png
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#80 ONLINE   stephen01

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 09:26 PM

This is all done, Didn't use an engine flush however I plan on changing it again in the next 4-5k. 

 

I must admit it was a very easy job, I managed it with 3 very basic tools, there was even a nice little flap for me to access the sump plug, save having to take off the complete under tray, and it was a normal socket not a crazy massive hex bolt or 14mm alan key thingy.

 

Everything was very easy to get to and being a 4x4 I just drove it up onto some blocks of wood approx 6 inches, and had nice access to sump plug.. 

 

6 bloody liters of oil it takes!


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#81 ONLINE   stephen01

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 11:53 AM

recommend me some brake pads.



#82 OFFLINE   Lacquer Peel

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 11:57 AM

Eicher pads from ECP are okay, made in the UK.

#83 OFFLINE   beko1987

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 12:38 PM

Eicher! Used pagid pads before and no one died too!
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#84 OFFLINE   gordonbennet

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 06:17 PM

Check ebay for the trader     ''e-parts-store''

 

He supplies Mintex at very good prices ie, genuine Mintex all round discs and pads on the Outback circa £134 the lot and bleedin huge vented rear discs (WTF is a LC doing with vented rears?) and pads on the Landcruiser for IIRC £70ish...i expected those to be serious money so well chuffed.

 

They did me a slightly better deal by looking up the company and dealing direct (based in Cheltenham), won't bother with anyone else for the forseeable as no one can touch their prices, no complaints with the parts quality either.

 

 

edit, are we sure about Eicher being made in GB, i understood them to be made in India.



#85 OFFLINE   Lacquer Peel

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 07:20 PM

http://www.fleetpoin...n-eicher/24383/

 

The last set I bought definitely said "Made in the UK" on them.


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#86 ONLINE   twosmoke300

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 07:32 PM

APEC all the way . Fitted hundreds of sets and never had an issue . They also do a budget brand in blue boxes

One of the funniest things ive read on here - RIP Dave

 

Quote

 

Brilliant... late in for lunch I fired up an off-brand pot noodle and while carrying it to the lounge successfully spilled it all over myself, burned the piss out of my hand, soaked my phone with the juice, soaked a load of expense receipts I was also carrying and it hit the hall floor and just fucking exploded....it was literally dripping from the ceiling in my newly decorated hallway. The obvious and considered reaction was to throw an immediate, massive paddy and boot the fucker down the hall while screaming, which has made the whole scenario about 18 times worse.


#87 OFFLINE   gordonbennet

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 07:33 PM

Cheers Lacquer Peel, that's put that one to bed.



#88 ONLINE   stephen01

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 04:56 PM

Had all the brakes done on the Honda, which are great, opted to have It done at the garage as I don't have the tools/time/ etc etc. we now stop very well indeed.

 

For the last day or so I've had a strange noise come from the passenger side, a little worse as i'm on rough roads, earlier I looked underneath and it's apparent that the front suspension is leaking, like dripping out, maybe a stupid question but do suspension struts just go that quick, in the past, I have owned several fiats you know, they leak a little, you know like a misting of oil, this however seems to be a bloody load. My mechanic, while not the cheapest I trust him, used him for 10 years, and he'd have told me if he'd have seen a leak so this must have happened all of a sudden.



#89 OFFLINE   scaryoldcortina

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 06:29 PM

When the seal on a gas insert gives way, the oil goes everywhere.



#90 ONLINE   stephen01

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Posted 12 December 2016 - 10:42 PM

​Honda has been as good as gold, done a couple of home services on it the last 20k, with it needing another service I dropped it off at national tyres as it was £45 for oil and filter so not worth my hassle doing it, and the fact that I have zero time to do it myself.

 

​A few points over the last 15-20k. another set of tyres. Thanks to autoshite as I used the tyreleader website. Uniroyal Rainexpert, seems my front pads are getting close to needing changing after 16k and 12 months which I don't think is very good as about 10k is motorway driving but I've already got some new Brembo ones ready for the swap.

 

​I had my MOT done a month early as I'm always getting it done just before Christmas and it's  a pain as I'm always broke with kids and all, anyway, The last couple of years the ball joints have flagged up as an advisory, this year not even flagged up.  just track rod ends which I replaced. always same garage.

 

Back to today it went to National Tyres for the oil and Filter and he asked when the MOT was due as the lower suspension arms were 'severally  rusted' he seemed a little surprised when I said a couple of weeks ago as it should have been flagged up and probably an MOT failure. Also the CV boot is ripped and grease everywhere and should be a fail, again nothing said by my MOT man. National didn't push for the work and just advised that I should get it done.

 

Two questions really, could the suspension arms really be that ​ rusty? I'll take a look tomorrow in the light, CV boot or new cv joint? it does really knock on the passenger side..






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