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Focus 1.6 manifold removal


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19 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 07:26 PM

Contemplating replacing the exhaust manifold as its blowing. Obviously this is going to involve undoing the studs that go in the head, any tips here to avoid a sheared stud and secondly any tips at the other end for shifting rusted up exhaust bolts?

#2 OFFLINE   Parky

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 09:09 PM

Plusgas, lots of. Apply liberally several hours before attempting to remove anything and that might save you a load of hassle later. If accessible I try and wire brush as much of the old rust off first so the Plusgas doesn't have so much to try and penetrate.

Might help with the rusted exhaust bolts too but in more extreme cases you might be looking at dusting off that old blowtorch in the shed in order to apply maximum heat.

Obviously ensuring you aren't using naked flames near petrol tanks and hoses! Good luck!

#3 OFFLINE   twosmoke300

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 09:17 PM

It's a ford so everything will be seized/ rusted solid . Ford could make plastic rust I'm sure .

Guess who is bitter cos he had to work this morning on a fucking transit cos the prop coupling was seized on solid ! Grr
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#4 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 09:38 PM

Might farm it out to the garage then. I hate doing anything to do with exhausts, I've took a manifold off before but it was years ago and it went fine plus access was easy and I wasn't doing it at the side of the road it was in a garage.

#5 OFFLINE   castros_bro

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 02:03 PM

Hi, wot is the engine? Zetec SE? I have one I dismantled earlier so could send photos as you cant.see bugger all when its still in situ. Worst was the rusted manifold to flexy coupling at a silly angle in a cramped space.


put a picture of 6 spanners here

#6 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 03:29 PM

Yes the 1.6 Zetec SE. I can get the actual replacement for the flexi for £30 but the garage said labour would be negligible between replacing the manifold and grafting a new flex on. If a stud shears then its head off time i imagine given the access?

At a guess I'd say it looks like an hour or so labour if you had access to a lift so might get the garage to have a look. I hate giving easy jobs away but when it's financially not worth tackling laid on your back on the drive you have to.

#7 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 03:49 PM

I did one not long ago. One of the easiest manifolds ever, did the swap in 1.5 hours start to finish. If the nuts are seized the whole stud unwinds = so wind it back in again. Aftermarket ones don't last that long so it's a toss up between that and the possible/probable arse rapeage by Ford.

 

You do the manifold the head bolts from up top and are surprisingly easy to get to once you overcome the fear of doing it.


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#8 OFFLINE   doobietoo

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 03:57 PM

Did the Golf exhaust today strangely enough as I had a broken stud. plus gassed it then took it for a short drive then while it was still warm re plus gassed it then loosened the other nuts just half a turn waited for it to cool down a bit then wound them all off.This left me with the broken stud. Luckily it was long enough to put two nuts onto which I tightened against each other and wound the stud out... easy. replaced the broken stud and bolted it all together again. took me an hour ....

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#9 OFFLINE   castros_bro

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 05:39 PM

Has yours got the cat between the ex-manifold and the fexi, where the downpipe should be? if so.then the cat mounting to engine brackets~bolts will be a rusty pain.

#10 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 05:48 PM

The ford ones are I believe £95. The aftermarket ones are £45. Since I last posted, I've been out and had a look, whipped the heat shield off, sprayed on loads of Plusgas onto the threads, doesn't look too bad access now I've faced the beast. Most difficult bit looks the Cat/manifold joint as the bolts here looked rusted/seized to fuck, again a blast of Plusgas and hopefully it will start to release. In any case if the bolts shear I can just put a M15 bolt through. Might give it a go now... I'll post when I'm giving it a go!

#11 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 09:31 PM

£95? Buy the Ford one. Aftermarket ones last about a year.


MASTER RACE MOTORS.

 

1989 F  730i. Prestigious.

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Money talks, but it don't sing and dance and it don't walk. And long as I can have you here with me, I'd much rather be, the Reverend Bluejeans, babe

 

 


#12 OFFLINE   steveo3002

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 11:37 AM

did you ever change it...mine needs doing now :(



#13 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 11:52 AM

I've got a good one if you want,I took off the black one. Took me all of 20 minutes to swap it.

Not that dear new, £45-50 or so.

#14 OFFLINE   steveo3002

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 12:11 PM

ordered already but cheers..so no snappage on the bolts then?  and it wiggles out with everything in situ?

 

did the o2 sensor reuse?



#15 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 12:15 PM

Yes, 22mm open end spanner removed it. If it won't budge I've got one you can have.

4 15mm nuts then a central 13mm bolt you might miss. Some 17mm nuts underneath. You might need the grinder on those though.

#16 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 12:15 PM

Done about 3 of them since I originally posted.

#17 OFFLINE   steveo3002

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 12:20 PM

good stuff...yeah i think the joint ones will need mr angle grinder on them



#18 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 12:31 PM

Some nuts from tool station probably do. Mine came out no problems but I'd greased them prior to installing them.

#19 OFFLINE   steveo3002

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 04:48 PM

yeah new one comes with a fitting kit anyway 



#20 OFFLINE   steveo3002

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 02:42 PM

just did it ..wow a job that went ok on that car 

 

head studs all wound out like new , o2 undid without any sweat 






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