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DodgyBastard

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How the hell did you get that silver one for just £60?

 

I don't know, the last 3 xud turbo powered cars I've had have been incredibly cheap, my green one was £120 and required a few patches welding for the mot, the 306 sedan was £80 plus £40 to transport it, it was barried/scene monged so I took the engine and scrapped the rest.

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Arses - air leaks can be such a twat to find

 

It's definitely getting air into the system, after tow starting it, got it running and dying at the unit, occasionally when starting air bubbles were coming through the hose from the filter housing.

Would enough air in the pump cause it to die then not restart for a while?

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35287308146_cc656d57e6_o.jpgDSC_0545 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

I had a bit of free time yesterday afternoon to have a play with this. I was concerned that the cheap £8 ebay stop solenoid I fitted might be faulty so I removed it and tested it on the battery, I could see the plunger opening and closing each time I connected and disconnected it with some jump leads.

I decided to wire it all back up but fit a bypassed solenoid to the car and leave it running for a while to see what happened to the solenoid connected to the system. After a couple of minutes the plunger popped out into the closed position and that's when I knew it was an immobiliser fault.

 

35160435362_127c4515c8_o.jpgDSC_0544 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

with the ignition on, I plugged in the keypad which instantly popped the plunger on the solenoid into the open position, plugging and unplugging achieved the same result so I stalled the car and and fitted my ebay solenoid. when fitting it, I decided to give it one last turn to tighten it when it sheared off leaving the threads of the solenoid stuck inside the pump. I used a hammer and flat blade screwdriver to remove the sheared thread then took the solenoid from one of the 305's and fitted that.

I'm slightly concerned about the keypad. With the ignition turned on both red and green lights are illuminated but the code is no longer required.

I found this bit of advice on another forum which I'll stick here for future reference.

 

 

if you have the red and green lights on at the same time that is a diagnostic signal that the key pad is not comunicating with the immobiliser unit. this can be caused by various things.

FIRST
check the crash switch has not popped up, look in your owners pack for the location of this.

if your car has a flip down key pad then the wiring breaks where it hinges, remove the pannel untape the loom and repair with solder not crimp connectors.

the corroded multi plug issue is a correct identification of a fault
xantia it is on the osf inner wing behind the head light
zx its inside the black plastic box on the inner wing, you need to remove the relay plate and ite screwed into the inner wing, from memory its a bit ov a bugger to get at
also on zx there is a bulkhead connector on the drivers side under the wiper scuttle, these are a real problem with water and green crud.remove the wiper arm and scuttle trim and you will see it sat there. down the hole in the mibble of the plug is a torx screw you need to undo. once that is undone the plug should pull appart, if its green ang horid clean it with a nail file or somthin similar and pack with vasalien then rebuild and try

if you are not surewhere the engine multi plug is then follow the engine loom from the fuel pump back, eventualy you will find the multi connector

if you have a diesel pre hdi then you also have a black relay with a red slide lock fastened with a r clip this is the controle relay, unplug this for 30 mins n then plug it back in, try again

if you have a petrol version then there is no way of bypassing the imobiliser because the imobilisation is built into the ecu and all the signals are digital code so you cant just twist wires together. the only optin here is to find the fault.

if you have a saxo diesel the above mensioned relay is on the front pannel and as the engine moves it breaks the wires in the loom to the relay, find the broken wire and solder

if you have a diesel pre hdi then you can bypass the imobilise but its not easy, the block on the fuel pump with 4 or 5 wires going to it has to be removed to reveal the stop solenoid, trouble is it is fastened on with shear bolts which need to be drilled out or the rufffffff aproach is a hammer and chisel but take care not to damage the pump or stop solenoid. once this is gone then you will have a single wire going to the stop solenoid fastened with an 8mm nut.
remove the old wire and connect in a new one from an ignition live sorse and hey presto u have no imobiliser.
so far as i know there is no way of twisting or connecting a live to any of the 4 or 5 wires on the orrigional unit to bypass it as again the signals are all digital

disconecting the key pad once the imobiliser is disarmed is useless as the thing will still arm again without the key pad

one last thing
if you have just changed your keypad number this may have caused your problem, when you press buttons on a daily basis then the contacts stay clean, those not pressed get shitty then you change the code, see where im going. if this is the case you may need to get another key pad ie borrow one if you can, return your car to the orrigional code using the replacxment pad then on the old number your old pad should work

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Guest Hooli

Note to self, never engage 4x4 system on tarmac roads. Front axle is a live axle so the clunking it makes when cornering is unbearable...

 

Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

 

No centre diff on selectable 4wds so no surprise it axle tramps.

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