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DodgyBastard

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38793045811_a0afc78d23_c.jpgDSC_0370 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

Today I fitted a new spring to the Camry which failed its mot on Thursday with a broken front spring. The old spring had broken in half so was relatively easy to remove apart from every nut and bolt being old and rusty. The replacement spring was massive and was a bit of a faff to compress and fit but I got there eventually. Hopefully I'll get it in for the retest during the week.

 

23928642857_b0549621d5_c.jpgDSC_0369 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

It's seems like a waste of a car letting my dad have it, he drives it occasionally and covered 1200 miles last year, it's left in a damp garage which really isn't doing it any favours. I'm tempted to sell it and get him a generic shitter to use when he needs it but I'm unsure what to sell the Camry for and what to buy in its place. My dad likes the car with it's leather interior and cruise control but doesn't particularly enjoy the poor fuel economy from a 3.0 v6 auto.

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Also managed to get the 360 sorted, it turns out that the hose between the tank and the fuel filter had kinked and was struggling to send fuel through, I managed to chop the hose down and catch most of the fuel pissing out, I filled 2 x 20 litre cans and also managed to get petrol absolutely everywhere including up my sleeve and all over my clothes.

To celebrate getting the Volvo going I dug out my spare set of GLT alloys and fitted some tyres to them.

 

37906819245_6c035bbf3a_c.jpg360 glt by srblythe, on Flickr

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I also had/have a few of those problems with mine.

 

Coolant leak - mine was a failed soldered joint where the tubes meet the top tank on the radiator. Had that stripped and resoldered by a local rad specialist.

 

Oil leak - they all do that sir. Most of the oil on mine was leaking out of the side inspection plates on the block, don't know if it's the same on the 2.5 but on mine there's two side plates and one at the front. The side ones had had their gaskets replaced with crappy cereal box card and the front one still had its original gasket so it was doing a very good impression of a sieve. All replaced with pukka rubberised cork gaskets (bought the material and cut them myself) then a smear of hermatite and they're dry as a bone. Also did the cam cover gasket while I was at it, this was weeping slightly in a couple of corners.

It's still got a slight weep from the sump gasket but it's a massive improvement as it was pissing oil out when I got it.

 

Lumpy idle/cuts out when cold - mine does this and it's also very difficult to start when it's been standing for more than a couple of days. Someone's blanked off the fuel return pipe to the tank, and I reckon it's a misguided attempt to prevent the fuel draining away and make the car easier to start when cold. It hasn't worked, if that was the intention. The fuel pump went pop not long ago leaving me stranded - had to be recovered home and I bought the last NOS fuel pump from GM6 Spares which has it running again. The roadside tech reckoned the blanked return pipe had put the (crappy aftermarket) pump under undue strain so it had failed.

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I was going to say that no return pipe is likely to cause the needle valve to leak due to excess pressure too.

 

Plus I think the return pipe also means the fuel near the engine is cooler (as it's always being changed) so less vapourisation issues in hot weather.

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  • 2 weeks later...

24212416177_d3aef516cf_c.jpgDSC_0752 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

24212415207_045647abf2_c.jpgDSC_0754 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

24212416977_86030e988d_c.jpgDSC_0750 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

24212419517_fa85c4a381_c.jpgDSC_0746 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

24212421827_70e233c887_c.jpgDSC_0743 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

The Senator seemed to be running a bit hot when in slow moving traffic and dying intermittently so I took it back to the unit and had a look at the oil filler cap and there seemed to be a small amount of mayo, the previous owner did mention it losing water and had concerns about the head gasket so at least now it is looking quite likely that it has failed.

I'm planning on having the head gasket and water pump replaced but I'll sort it closer to summer, the Senator isn't really a car for driving in the winter, the blowers are crap too and barely give out any heat.

Any Opel/Vauxhall lickers got a good source for a head gasket set or is ebay my best bet?

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Spotted this for sale on facebook

 

27332680779_8290bcc9ba_c.jpgDSC_0809 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

38228517135_d655411531_c.jpgDSC_0811 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

38228518435_594df28818_c.jpgDSC_0808 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

Last thing I really need is another car but a 406 with mot until September 2018 for £350 was just too difficult to resist. I'm informed that it's the 2.1 xud with 12v head and a mitsubishi turbocharger. It starts, drives, handles and stops nicely.

Needs a radio code though.

Will be a perfect WBOD and will save some of my other stuff from rusting away if I can stop using them as much.

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Before the glow plugs shat themselves I was well impressed with my 2.1 XUDT 406, it's got seemingly endless torque and seemingly a 10mph higher cruising speed than the 1.7s I'm used to. It's a bit 'dull modern car' for me (especially the steering) but I reckon as a WBOD it'd be hard to beat (apart from the fact it won't start if it's cold, obvs)

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Beware on an M plate that will have the horrendous electronic carb and AFR control.  It's not a simple matter of "stick a Webber on" due to the cat - which (having discussed this with my MOST tester) it being a 1993 or newer car has to be tested as cat equipped.  Even when these carbs are working properly they're not great.

 

...hence me binning the lot on mine and grafting the throttle body injection setup from a 1.7i Niva onto it.  That injection system is dead simple, works ten times better than the electronic carb, and is actually very reliable.  Car drives *so* much better with that setup.  It's like comparing a single carb Saab 900 with a 16V injection in terms of power delivery.  Also gets rid of the distributor, coil etc replacing it with a pair of coil packs.  So again one less bit of maintenance.

 

Only real headache would you believe it has been sorting the accelerator pedal.  Oh, and I had to hack about one cooling fan bracket as it interferes with the crankshaft position sensor.  Overall though it just "bolts on" for the most part.  I've just ordered an injection spec tank and fuel pump from Lada (Scandinavian countries got a 1.7i Riva) to tidy that end of things up.

 

It's not been a cheap project by any means - but I don't plan on selling it any time soon and it's made the car so much more usable.  Especially in slow traffic where the serious lack of brainpower from the AFR module lead to the carb guessing what was being asked of it wrong more often than not, or on the motorway where she used to seriously struggle for power at speed.  70mph really was the end of the world with anything beyond myself on board, whereas she'll quite happily cruise at 70mph now fully laden up hills.  Actually quite believe the quoted top speed now.

 

To be honest, what I've created I reckon is how the late Rivas *should* have left the showroom in the UK.

 

If that car's rust free and doesn't have a stupid mileage though it's probably worth a few quid.  They're not that hard to find though (especially in saloon form - Estates are rarer).  I'd say the Senator would be the pick of the two for me...and that's coming from someone who's suffered from being a fan of Ladas for many years!

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