Jump to content


Welcome to Autoshite

Welcome to Autoshite, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Autoshite by signing in or creating an account.
  • Start new topics and reply to others
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Customize your experience here
Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo

Korean Cortina


  • Please log in to reply
998 replies to this topic

#901 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 07 February 2017 - 09:55 PM

Pack the oil pump with vaseline, then it'll prime a lot more easily.

 

It's actually dead easy to prime as it is, with the remote filter head. All I've done before is pop off one of the hoses, connect a funnel to that and fill with oil.

 

And now for something controversial!

 

20170207_2003051.jpg

 

I've not gone for the upgraded cam chain, but remained with the original type. I was thinking of something like a Cloyes duplex chain, but the company who've supplied the bits reckoned they weren't all they are cracked up to be. Although arguably a better design, apparently the quality can be a bit variable and they've seen a couple of actual failures. Whereas with the originals they don't tend to actually suddenly fail, just gradually become slack.

 

Anyway, it's now on, for better or worse...

 

20170207_2058381.jpg

 

And a quick before and after comparison!

 

 


  • Pete-M, Banger Kenny, Skizzer and 4 others like this

#902 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Lancia Gamma

  • Full Members
  • 6,471 posts
  • 58 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 07 February 2017 - 09:58 PM


And now for something controversial!

 

 

A tin of Celebrations, I agree they are better than Quality Street.


  • Banger Kenny, RobT, mat_the_cat and 1 other like this

#903 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 09 February 2017 - 10:22 PM

I put the spacer and sprocket on the camshaft earlier this week, but noticed a strange wear pattern on the spacer:

 

20170208_0649021.jpg

 

I can't think of anything which would have caused this! Any ideas?

 

Once that was on I smeared the chain and sprockets with assembly lube:

 

20170208_2225271.jpg

 

Note the oil thrower which I think is only fitted to the very early 'rope seal' engines - certainly what I've read. Although mine has been converted to the later lip seals I've left it in place as it can't hurt.

 

Cleaned out the inside of the front cover and oil pump:

 

20170208_2226291.jpg

 

Copper greased up all the retaining bolts:

 

20170208_2228311.jpg

 

Mounted the cover, then tapped the new oil seal into place:

 

20170208_2252241.jpg

 

Next job is to reassemble the oil pump - I will pack it with vaseline for ease of priming but I need to buy a tub first!


  • M'coli, Banger Kenny, alf892 and 7 others like this

#904 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 09 February 2017 - 10:22 PM

Duplicate post for some reason!

 

EDIT - very strange, I edited this post to remove the pictures and it removed them from the first post too!

 

EDIT2 - Arrrgh! Re-uploaded to post 1, and it's put them back on both.



#905 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Lancia Gamma

  • Full Members
  • 6,471 posts
  • 58 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 09 February 2017 - 10:39 PM

That was more exciting to read the first time ;)

 

I do like a proper rebuild thread, looks like you're doing it properly. That wear looks like where a seal has run to me, but they don't have one there do they?



#906 OFFLINE   Honey Badger

Honey Badger

    Rank: BL Wedge

  • Full Members
  • 974 posts
  • 9 thanks
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 09 February 2017 - 11:15 PM

Qualiy thread Mat, you make the rebuild look easy.


  • mat_the_cat likes this

#907 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 09 February 2017 - 11:35 PM

I do like a proper rebuild thread, looks like you're doing it properly. That wear looks like where a seal has run to me, but they don't have one there do they?

 

No, no seal there so a bit of a puzzle!

 

Arguably doing it properly would be to replace all parts with new - valves, guides, springs, rockers, pistons etc. But (quite aside from the financial side) I like the idea of checking/measuring and replacing where necessary. Somehow feels more involved than just opening my wallet and renewing everything, if that makes any kind of sense? I suppose it's similar to the satisfaction of keeping an older car running reliably.


  • KruJoe, Banger Kenny, alf892 and 5 others like this

#908 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 10 February 2017 - 08:17 PM

Vaseline purchased this afternoon, although I did wonder whether the contents of my basket gave the wrong message...

 

20170210_1409121.jpg

 

Then I packed the (previously upgraded) oil pump to help priming.

 

20170210_1839051.jpg

 

Cleaned out the cover and oiled the pressure relief valve, and all back together now!

 

20170210_1853381.jpg


  • Pillock, Pete-M, anonymous user and 9 others like this

#909 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 17 February 2017 - 07:15 PM

This week I've been waiting to go over and collect the heads and pistons (which they'd offered to put though the washer for me, no charge), so I've been busying myself with other things. It's a 140 mile round trip so I can only really do it on half day Fridays.

 

Anyway, I stripped down the starter, cleaned it up inside and out, lubricated the bearings and gave it a coat of paint.

 

20170217_1732441.jpg

 

I wanted to torque down the front cover, as it would be a lot easier to do the cover bolts now rather than with the engine in. But I was reluctant to tighten just the lower bolts without the water pump in place, and I can't fit the pump now as I need the clearance to lower the engine in! So after cleaning up all the threads I used some spacers to allow the long water pump bolts to clamp down the cover, which I'll remove before fitting the pump.

 

20170217_1723401.jpg

 

Heads were collected this afternoon, and look nice and shiny!

 

20170217_1724181.jpg

 

As one had already had a skim, they took more off the other to match them up, and compensate for the thicker composite gaskets. I also asked them to machine the guides to accept oil seals.

 

20170217_1725181.jpg

 

20170217_1728401.jpg

 

I was initially not too sure of this, as I was worried that the earlier cast iron guides actually needed the lack of seals to allow enough oil to lubricate them. But a lot of people have had this done, and some engines are designed with these guides and seals, so I figure it should be safe to do so. I guess the graphite in the iron helps with lubrication, and *some* oil will still pass the seal.

 

The pistons are pretty clean now, but I still will need to clean out all the grooves with a broken bit of ring. So that will probably be my task for tonight!

 

20170217_1842091.jpg

 

I've dropped off the flywheel with them for lightening and balancing, so will probably collect that in a week or two.


  • Banger Kenny, Bren, tooSavvy and 5 others like this

#910 OFFLINE   Asimo

Asimo

    Hondamatic

  • Full Members
  • 4,370 posts
  • 13 thanks
  • LocationRe-booting....
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 17 February 2017 - 07:58 PM

Doesn't the flywheel have a balance weight (and the crankshaft pulley at the other end) making it necessary to balance the entire rotating assembly as one? I thought that was always the case with V8 engines.

#911 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 17 February 2017 - 10:38 PM

Not in this case at least - the crank, flywheel and vibration damper are all balanced separately. You might be able to get away with just lightening the flywheel, but my understanding is that things like casting voids, porosity etc may mean that by evening removing material you are actually unevenly removing weight. So best to get it balanced again afterwards.


  • Asimo likes this

#912 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 20 February 2017 - 08:46 PM

The pistons still had a bit of carbon on the crown, so I spent about 3 hours last night cleaning them up including the ring grooves.

 

20170219_2046191.jpg

 

I had to do that particular job outside for reasons of domestic harmony! But re-ringing was done this evening whilst sat in front of the fire :-)

 

20170220_1954311.jpg

 

All done!

20170220_1951501.jpg

 

One of the big end bolt's threads came away while removing them, but it was simple to tap the bolt out and replace with new:

 

20170220_2015061.jpg

 

20170220_2015401.jpg

 

All the other bolts looked in perfect condition, so I've left them in place.

 

I had a package arrive today too :-)

 

20170220_1956171.jpg

 

I wasn't planning on replacing valves as they are in decent condition; however a bit of research showed that it's a fairly cheap upgrade to fit SD1 Vitesse spec valves. These have a narrowed stem just below the head for less restriction to airflow through the ports. They were deemed adequate by Land Rover for all the later engines up to 4.6 litre, so should flow more than enough for a mildly tweaked 3.5!


  • worldofceri, Banger Kenny, Skizzer and 3 others like this

#913 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 25 February 2017 - 03:33 PM

Here's a better photo of the valves, showing the difference I mean.

 

20170221_230123.jpg

 

I've not started building the heads yet, as I'm planning a little bit of mild porting to the heads to make the most of the cam, so have been doing a fair amount of research beforehand. More on that later...

 

First of all the bottom end needed building up. I was paranoid about scratching my nice polished crank with the con rod bolts, so I protected them with tape. Bearing shells all in place and each cap kept with the respective rod.

 

20170222_195936.jpg

 

I oiled up the pistons and rings before compressing them, and smeared the shells with assembly lube before tapping them down the bores.

 

20170222_212113.jpg

 

20170222_204547.jpg

 

20170222_204044.jpg

 

You'll notice no protective tape at this stage - after the first one it was tricky to remove, and by adjusting the angle of the engine I could get the bores vertical to avoid scratching them, and guide the rod in from below whilst reaching up to tap the piston from above. I was quite surprised at how long it all took (probably around 3 hours), but I was really taking my time and not rushing anything. A very satisfying job, especially turning the crank and watching the pistons rise up and down :-)


  • Banger Kenny, Skizzer, catsinthewelder and 6 others like this

#914 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Lancia Gamma

  • Full Members
  • 6,471 posts
  • 58 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 25 February 2017 - 04:06 PM

I've only fitted pistons to an engine twice, both times I know exactly what you mean about when it all moves properly. That's only bettered by when you trash the knackers off it & it begs for more. You know you did it right then.


  • Skizzer and mat_the_cat like this

#915 ONLINE   twosmoke300

twosmoke300

    Rank: Lancia Gamma

  • Full Members
  • 7,941 posts
  • 30 thanks
  • LocationCornwall

Posted 25 February 2017 - 04:47 PM

''Tis a lovely feeling that smooth but slight schhh sound of new rings in honed bores and a fresh crank . Like silk
  • alf892, mat_the_cat and Hooli like this

Skoda Octavia 1.9tdi - the boring modern 

Fiat Ducato 2009 l3h2

Honda Crf250X

Suzuki TS50x

Kawasaki Ke175d

Prilla Pigsasshole 650

Saxo 1.5D

Land Rover 90 2.5 petrol

Honda CB250N super wet dream

 

 

 


#916 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 25 February 2017 - 08:22 PM

That's only bettered by when you trash the knackers off it & it begs for more. You know you did it right then.

 

I'm very much looking forwards to that part! But with a massive amount of nervousness...


  • Banger Kenny and Hooli like this

#917 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Lancia Gamma

  • Full Members
  • 6,471 posts
  • 58 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 25 February 2017 - 08:30 PM

I'm very much looking forwards to that part! But with a massive amount of nervousness...

Yeah I was much the same on my Bonnie after I'd rebuilt it and in my Disco when I'd changed the rings.



#918 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 26 February 2017 - 03:10 PM

Minor update with photos from last night (I'm currently having a break from lapping the valves in!) Now that the bottom end had been built up, I could finally put the sump in place. I'm not generally a fan of silicone sealant, but the sealing faces aren't in the best condition, and LR did away with the gasket anyway on later engines. So I went with that, but I do have a method which I believe minimises the risk of sealant being squeezed out and floating around in the engine.

 

Not too much applied to start with, and central to sit in the corresponding groove on the sump:

20170225_1557031.jpg

 

I'd had a minor leak from the back of the sump for a while, which I realised was not helped by the lack of this plate. New one bought from Rimmer Bros, with the longer bolts required.

 

20170225_1544121.jpg

 

20170225_1618281.jpg

 

There's a large gap between bolt holes on the rearmost main bearing cap so this helps to spread the clamping force. I guess without it there's a chance the seal will fail under vibration.

 

Sump now in place:

 

20170226_0658591.jpg

 

What I did was tighten the bolts down until the sealant was making contact all the way around, but not enough to force it all out of the joint. Then I waited until it had set, before torquing everything down evenly. The sump is a bit of a mess TBH - I had to cut and reweld it to clear the front crossmember, but the welding was done while I was still very much learning! I'm wary to grinding it all back in case I uncover a pinhole which causes it to leak; as it holds paraffin OK at the moment am inclined to leave well alone.

 

Back to the valves I guess...


  • Banger Kenny, tooSavvy, Rusty_Rocket and 3 others like this

#919 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Lancia Gamma

  • Full Members
  • 6,471 posts
  • 58 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 26 February 2017 - 03:53 PM

It's looking like an engine again.



#920 OFFLINE   Danblez

Danblez

    Rank: BL Wedge

  • Full Members
  • 766 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationSouthportish
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 26 February 2017 - 10:27 PM

Really enjoying this, good work!
  • mat_the_cat likes this

#921 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 26 February 2017 - 10:32 PM

Good new, bad news and a delay.

 

In that order, the heads are now close to being built back up again. Something I feel a bit more confident with, as it's known territory and you can't really assemble them wrongly! Although this time I've tried a bit of mild porting - mainly to remove this step in the inlet port just below the valve seat:

 

20170224_144104.jpg

 

Here you can see I've started to have a go at it, but still more to remove and hardly very well blended in to the rough, as cast finish in the rest of the port:

 

20170224_145044.jpg

 

Finally, pretty much there:

 

20170226_1742531.jpg

 

The worst of the roughness removed (by hand!) and the sharp edge smoothed out. Repeat 16 times, and job done! Actually, the exhaust ports had much less work to do, and are less critical anyway as there's much more of a pressure differential. It still took most of the weekend though...

 

Then an hour or so to lap all the valves in:

 

20170226_1829571.jpg

 

I'm paranoid about traces of lapping compound remaining behind, so I degreased both heads thoroughly, followed by pressure washing in the rain. So obviously I had to dry them out again!

 

20170226_1932421.jpg

 

And now for the bad news - spot the problem?

 

20170226_2207001.jpg

 

Annoyingly I tapped one of the valve seals in off square, so that had to be removed as it was all out of shape. I've got another one on its way, but it's going to be a couple of days before I can do any more. As it happened though, there would still have been a delay as I measured the valve springs and there's a fair amount of variation between them. So for the price they are, and peace of mind I'm going to replace them as well at this stage.


  • Banger Kenny, Honey Badger, Asimo and 3 others like this

#922 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 28 February 2017 - 10:43 PM

The valve springs and final valve seal arrived today, so I had a bit more of a play with the heads this evening. I've cleaned out all the threads; partly to make assembly easier and also to check all the threads are in good condition.

 

20170225_171812.jpg

 

Valves now fitted, lubricated with assembly grease.

 

20170228_205724.jpg

 

I managed to use the kitchen table as a workbench, which was handy!

 

20170228_205333.jpg

 

All done and ready to fit!

 

20170228_211950.jpg

 

20170228_212042.jpg

 

I'd like to clean the head bolt threads in the block first, before I fit them. However, despite my Grandad leaving me a seemingly endless collection of imperial taps, there's no 7/16" UNC. There is a 7/16" BSW, which has the same pitch but a slightly different thread angle...so close but I daren't risk it. Once the new tap arrives I will be able to crack on...

 

 


  • Banger Kenny, Skizzer, catsinthewelder and 9 others like this

#923 OFFLINE   Lacquer Peel

Lacquer Peel

    Rank: Isuzu Florian

  • Full Members
  • 8,774 posts
  • 13 thanks
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 01 March 2017 - 10:27 AM

Cracking work Mat. It's good to see the stages of the rebuild and how understanding Mrs. The-cat must be.

#924 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 04 March 2017 - 07:55 PM

I got my tap earlier in the week, so cleaned out all the heads ready for new bolts.

 

20170301_212938.jpg

 

I've gone for the stretch bolt option, as I really think you would struggle to get an even clamping force based on torque alone - with such coarse threads there's masses of potential for error. At least with stretch bolts you know it'll be uniform, even if it did take a 4 foot breaker bar to tighten! Ideally some ARP studs, but I can't justify well over £100 for those.

 

Composite head gaskets:

 

20170301_211620.jpg

 

Heads both on and torqued down, valley gasket temporarily in place to keep dust out:

 

20170301_230316.jpg

 

Then next day it was on to lubing the camshaft. I'd been using general engine assembly lubricant for the rest of the wear surfaces, but for the cam and lifters I wanted something better until they break in:

 

20170302_213048.jpg

 

I wanted to fill the sump at this stage too, as otherwise when filling via the rocker cover, it might wash off all the cam lube!

 

20170302_212055.jpg

 

20170302_212153.jpg

 

Then it was just a case of lubing each lobe and lifter, and sliding into place. I'll probably put the rocker covers on for now, as I have to rebuild the rocker gear and than might take a few days.

 

20170302_213522.jpg

 

20170302_213716.jpg


  • Richard, Lankytim, M'coli and 9 others like this

#925 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 04 March 2017 - 10:17 PM

Minor update this evening - i cleaned up the several mm of black crud from the rocker covers, and plonked them in place. I've gone for cork gaskets because, as Morgan owners probably can appreciate, I like having a functional part of my car made from wood:

 

20170304_2041081.jpg

 

I know a lot of people don't rate them, but I've honestly never had a problem with them on several engines. I much prefer the look of the early rocker covers too, which have cleaned up nicely :-)

 

20170304_2044591.jpg


  • anonymous user, loserone, Skizzer and 11 others like this

#926 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 05 March 2017 - 07:52 PM

Today's job was to take a look at the rocker shafts.

20170305_1637041.jpg

 

At first glance they didn't seem too bad after a quick clean up - only slight play in the rockers on the shafts. But a closer look showed scoring and a noticeable wear lip on the shaft.

20170305_1553251.jpg

 

Plus some of the rocker cups had started to break up.

20170305_1553421.jpg

 

You can buy the shafts fairly cheaply, but the problem lies with why they wear in the first place. Logically the aluminium arms should wear before the steel shafts, but what happens is any bits of metal floating around in the oil tend to embed themselves into the aluminium and grind away at the shaft.

 

Pattern rockers are available, but not to the same tolerances as the original, so there is a likelihood of too much oil flowing through, flooding the top end with oil and reducing the pressure elsewhere. Genuine rockers are £30+ EACH!

 

But then I remembered I had stripped a scrap engine for spares around 10 years ago. I didn't know anything about the engine, apart from it had thrown a rod through the crankcase and looked even more filthy inside than mine! But I'd salvaged the rocker assemblies 'just in case', so it was time to clean them up and assess for wear.

 

20170304_2311461.jpg

 

Happily there was next to no wear at all - just a polished area on the bottom of the shaft where they go first!

20170305_1551201.jpg

 

And here's where I am at the moment - I need to make sure they are clean. Not just for cosmetics, but the centre of the shaft is partly blocked with sludge so will restrict flow. Plus there are oilways within the rockers which I've unblocked with an appropriately sized drill bit.

20170305_1554241.jpg

 

There's a little bit of corrosion and wear on the shaft where the spacer springs have contacted it, but I can't see that being a functional problem at all.


  • M'coli, Banger Kenny, loserone and 8 others like this

#927 OFFLINE   dollywobbler

dollywobbler

    Mr HubNut

  • Full Members
  • 24,084 posts
  • 26 thanks
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 05 March 2017 - 11:02 PM

Great stuff! Doubt I'd ever have the patience to do a proper engine overhaul.

1986 Citroen 2CV6, 1995 Lexus LS400
1997 Honda S-MX, 2001 Perodua Nippa
HubNut Blog      HubNut Vids    Twatter


#928 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 06 March 2017 - 06:53 PM

I'm not sure I really have the patience either - I just want to finish the job and drive it!

 

But I can certainly see where the cost goes when paying for a *thorough* professional rebuild. Fair enough, they'll be able to work faster than I can with experience and better equipment, but even so there's a hell of a lot of hours going into the job.


  • Banger Kenny and Hooli like this

#929 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,352 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 06 March 2017 - 10:35 PM

The end is in sight (hopefully!) I started building up the rocker shafts earlier this evening, which was quite enjoyable.

 

20170306_1946481.jpg

 

Lubricating the shaft before sliding on each rocker, with a spring washer on each end to retain them.

 

20170306_2004331.jpg

 

Pushrods in place. (Fortunately, as the cups had not yet disintegrated, the pushrods had not visibly started to wear).

 

20170306_2018111.jpg

 

Both rocker assemblies now in place.

 

20170306_2119161.jpg

 

To do list:

 

Rotate engine to check nothing jams

Fit engine mounts

Secure dipstick tube

Flywheel (still not collected it yet)

Clutch

Fit engine

Fit inlet manifold

Crank pulley

Water pump

Prime oil system

Fit distributor

Exhaust manifolds

Start!!!


  • Banger Kenny, catsinthewelder, DeeJay and 5 others like this

#930 OFFLINE   stuboy

stuboy

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,328 posts
  • 6 thanks
  • Locationashford kent

Posted 06 March 2017 - 10:49 PM

call me nieve.. Vaseline?


END of the road for the  MONTURDO !! :-(  :-(  :-(  

Long live fozzie the Focus  :wub:  :wub:  :wub:   





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users