Jump to content


Welcome to Autoshite

Welcome to Autoshite, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Autoshite by signing in or creating an account.
  • Start new topics and reply to others
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Customize your experience here
Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo

Korean Cortina


  • Please log in to reply
944 replies to this topic

#871 OFFLINE   dollywobbler

dollywobbler

    Beard in Wales

  • Full Members
  • 22,122 posts
  • 1 thanks
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 09 January 2017 - 11:34 PM

Eesh. Glad it's not catching a nail, so you may be in luck. The Dyane had similar but it was a nail catcher. Bit easier to sort out on a Dyane though...

1986 Citroen 2CV Dolly (In fewer bits) 1997 Vauxhall Omega 2.5TD (smoother)

1997 Honda S-MX (JDM YO!) 1999 Perodua Nippa EX (Tiny)

HubNut Blog      HubNut Vids    Twatter


#872 OFFLINE   Pete-M

Pete-M

    ALL VXLs ARE SHIT.

  • Full Members
  • 8,639 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationThe Glorious Peoples Republic of Liverpool.

Posted 09 January 2017 - 11:39 PM

Know anyone with a large ultrasound bath? While it is out. They do a marvelous job of getting all the crap out of galleries.

214837.png 180526.png

Never knowingly inoffensive.


#873 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 11 January 2017 - 07:26 PM

We have a huge one at work, but it's for cleaning optics so needs to be kept spotlessly clean. Otherwise that would have been ideal. I'll take it to the place who will be doing the honing etc, and they will be able to clean it better than I can.

 

I've stripped it down to the bare block now, so here are the pictures to date.

 

This is why I dislike gasket sealant!

20170110_2131081.jpg

 

I'm now glad I'm doing a full overhaul!

20170110_2255291.jpg

That explains the mark on that bore at least.

 

Big-end bearings fairly worn too:

20170110_2255511.jpg

 

But main bearings even worse:

20170110_2255191.jpg

 

None of them have worn down to the steel backing of the shell though, so I'm hopeful the crankshaft is OK - not examined or measured it yet.


  • Banger Kenny and Hooli like this

#874 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 12 January 2017 - 09:56 PM

I'm taking the block and crank in for (hopefully just) a hone and polish tomorrow, so given the block a bit of a clean up. I will get them to give it a thorough clean afterwards too.

 

20170111_2057031.jpg

 

20170111_2057501.jpg

 

In the meantime I will strip and check the heads, then when the block is ready I can taken them in if they need a skim, or if new guides or seats are needed.


  • Pete-M, Banger Kenny, Skizzer and 5 others like this

#875 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

danthecapriman

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 2,578 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationWaterlooville, Hampshire
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 12 January 2017 - 10:44 PM

Brilliant progress.
When my Ford V8 was stripped the crank bearings looked similar to yours, I got away with only needing the crank polishing so hopefully yours will be ok.
I didn't get so lucky with the block though! It needed a full rebore.
1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#876 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 13 January 2017 - 10:52 PM

Have you (or anyone else) had experience of the Piper 270 cam? That's what I had on my wishlist back in  the day, and would seem to be a reasonably mild upgrade so as not to spoil driveability.

 

My SD1 Vitesse had an uprated camshaft, which I think was a Hurricane or summat. It had Rhodes lifters to supposedly improve driveability but it really didn't do much to improve power and they didn't half clatter sometimes. It would rev higher than a standard Rover V8 but although that sounds like a good thing it really did begin to get rough at high revs. So rough that I rarely used the extra poke the cam allegedly delivered and spent far too much time cursing the lack of low rev grunt caused by the sporty cam.

You know the lovely low down grunt the V8 has? Say goodbye to that with a sporty cam. The 3.9 EFI cam will up the poke without removing low down grunt.

 

I'm really struggling to decide on the camshaft. I don't want to lose much low down torque, but that said, I'm actually happy with the pull even my worn cam has at low revs. So I'd think that a mild upgrade can't be worse than that! And the SD1 weighs around 400 kg more than the Stellar, with a 3.09:1 rear axle ratio versus my 3.45:1. So on that logic, I am still thinking of an uprated cam, as I'll be spending more time at higher revs than an SD1 would.

 

I'm also wondering if the Rhoads lifters maybe hadn't fully pumped up until after the torque peak for the Hurricane cam? Certainly from a bit of Googling it would seem they're normally only reserved for more extreme cams.

 

I guess price will have to come into it somewhere!



#877 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,145 posts
  • 3 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 14 January 2017 - 12:33 AM

Not seen this thread before, bloody excellent!


  • mat_the_cat likes this

#878 OFFLINE   scdan4

scdan4

    Rank: Austin Maxi

  • Full Members
  • 483 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • Locationsunny swindon on sea
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 14 January 2017 - 09:55 AM

Good work matt. will be lovely when done.

 

(something  I don't understand having just caught up the last few pages: Low compressions being indicitive of cam wear? Surely if the cam is worn, the valves are opened less... i.e. are shut more... Why would that drop compression?)



#879 ONLINE   twosmoke300

twosmoke300

    Rank: Lancia Gamma

  • Full Members
  • 6,637 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationCornwall

Posted 14 January 2017 - 12:16 PM

Can't suck in enough air to fill the chamber fully
  • scdan4 likes this

Saab 9-5 2.3t

Fiat Ducato 11 Jtd

Honda Crf250X

Suzuki TS50x

Kawasaki Ke175d

Prilla Pigsasshole 650

Corsa C 1.0

Saxo 1.5D

Honda Civic 5dr 1.4

Fiat Grande Punto 1.2

 

 


#880 OFFLINE   Pete-M

Pete-M

    ALL VXLs ARE SHIT.

  • Full Members
  • 8,639 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationThe Glorious Peoples Republic of Liverpool.

Posted 14 January 2017 - 01:39 PM

It may have been a Typhoon cam? It had big valve heads from a TVR. The cam certainly didn't do it any favours.

The 4.2 JE engine in my VP EFI didn't have a mad cam, that thing just pulled like a train. Did 244 bhp on the dyno :)
  • mat_the_cat likes this

214837.png 180526.png

Never knowingly inoffensive.


#881 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 20 January 2017 - 10:03 PM

Not much to report, but the sun was shining this afternoon so I did some work outside on my mobile 'workbench'.

 

20170120_1413581.jpg

 

The company who did my exhausts had used paste to seal them to the manifolds, as I hadn't been able to find gaskets to suit them. They were originally from a P5B, being the tightest to the block manifolds I could find, and a larger diameter to anything the local factors had listed for a Rover V8.

 

The paste didn't seal too well so there was a light blow, which I mistakenly thought could be a cracked manifold. So I've decided to make my own gaskets for reassembly. First of all a tap with a hammer to mark where to drill:

 

20170120_1416521.jpg

 

Then slide over the studs and cut roughly to shape:

 

20170120_1434371.jpg

 

One side done!

 

20170120_1521131.jpg


  • Richard, Pete-M, danthecapriman and 10 others like this

#882 OFFLINE   Pete-M

Pete-M

    ALL VXLs ARE SHIT.

  • Full Members
  • 8,639 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationThe Glorious Peoples Republic of Liverpool.

Posted 21 January 2017 - 12:15 PM

MGB V8 manifolds are about the closest to the block ones I've seen for the RV8.

214837.png 180526.png

Never knowingly inoffensive.


#883 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:38 PM

You're right, I did investigate those with a lot of Google image searching...

 

DanAlgarin-BF.jpg

 

However the exit from those is in the middle, which is right where the front subframe is on the Stellar! Not an insurmountable problem, but I was keen to minimise any modifications to the shell, as well as wanting an easy life!

 

The P5B manifolds were a lucky stroke really, as I just found them via an image search, thought they looked about right and following the link they were on an old Retro Rides for sale thread. Much relief when they slotted into place.


  • KruJoe, Pete-M, Banger Kenny and 1 other like this

#884 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 24 January 2017 - 08:47 PM

Update time! The bores are OK, and the scuff mark will apparently just hone out. More good news is that the crank just needs a polish :-) Slightly worse news is that the surface of the block shows some fretting from the HG shifting around, so that won't give the best seal on a new gasket. So I'm getting the deck skimmed to clean it all up - I'll need to get some material removed anyway to allow for the (thicker) composite gaskets I want to fit.

 

The heads are now stripped down; last valve coming out:

 

20170124_1800581.jpg

 

The valves and guides appear at first sight to be in perfect condition. No detectable side to side movement with the valve open, and sliding up and down beautifully. Original Rover valves too!

 

20170124_1804171.jpg

 

The only slight concern is that these are the early type of guide, with no valve seal fitted. Later types are machined for a stem seal, and rely on an impregnated lubricant rather than the engine oil. I've read that you can get the early guides machined to fit the seals, but to my logic that sounds a poor idea as you'd be running the different material with next to no lubrication.

 

As it was showing no signs of burning oil, I'm inclined to leave alone and just clean up/relap the valves. Still need to measure the springs, which I'll replace if needed.


  • danthecapriman, Banger Kenny, alf892 and 7 others like this

#885 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 27 January 2017 - 09:30 PM

I've cleaned up the heads this evening, and they are now sat by the fire to dry out.

 

20170127_2007211.jpg

 

I've also taken the file to some of the rough cast edges on the oil drain holes. It seems a good idea to get oil back to the sump as fast as possible, especially given that my oil capacity is lower than standard as I've cut and shut the sump to clear the crossmember.


  • Banger Kenny, Skizzer, DeeJay and 1 other like this

#886 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,145 posts
  • 3 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 27 January 2017 - 09:36 PM

I might have missed it but what about an oil cooler to get the capacity back up?



#887 ONLINE   Bren

Bren

    Rank: Lancia Gamma

  • Full Members
  • 5,287 posts
  • 1 thanks
  • LocationI dunno man - i only just got here meself!

Posted 27 January 2017 - 09:44 PM

You can drill a couple of 6mm holes at the timing end of the lifter valley to get the oil back to the sump more quickly.

Have you done any calculations regarding your composite gaskets? You don't want to reduce the compression too much plus you will need to think about tappet preload - shims under the rocker pedestals.

#888 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 27 January 2017 - 10:44 PM

You can drill a couple of 6mm holes at the timing end of the lifter valley to get the oil back to the sump more quickly.

 

Already planned! Plus if I get them at the right angle they will lubricate the timing gear and chain more effectively. I had wondered about an oil cooler, but I don't think it's needed - the oil temperature doesn't get abnormally high. Maybe an extra tank in line with the remote filter, but in all likelihood the litre less oil probably isn't an issue. I will be changing the oil pretty frequently anyway.

 

With getting the block and heads skimmed the compression ratio should be around the same - don't want to increase it significantly otherwise I run the risk of not being able to bolt the inlet manifold down. I will be checking for lifter preload as a matter of course.



#889 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 30 January 2017 - 10:36 PM

The block and crank are ready, so I'll be collecting them this Friday and dropping off the heads for a skim. As well as parting with cash for lots of shiny bits!

 

The only unknown at this stage are the pistons. To me the ring groove appears too wide - certainly there is a (relatively) large gap with the old rings, although it needs to be measured with new rings. However, I'd imagine the aluminium would wear more than the rings so am expecting the gap to be similar with new rings.

 

Which means I'll likely need to replace the pistons, unfortunately :-(


  • Skizzer likes this

#890 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 03 February 2017 - 07:39 PM

It begins!

 

20170203_1858081.jpg

 

20170203_1855521.jpg

 

I picked up the block and crank today :-) I've left the pistons there as they'll put them through the parts washer, but they reckon that visually they look to be OK.

 

They had a look at the heads and apparently one has been skimmed, the other not; so they'll measure from the head datums and take a different amount off so that everything matches up and gives round about a 9.5:1 compression ratio with the composite gaskets.

 

I did see their head castings they do for race engines, but wasn't brave enough to ask the price!


  • KruJoe, Banger Kenny, Skizzer and 4 others like this

#891 OFFLINE   Skizzer

Skizzer

    Rank: Tommek Dirtbeast

  • Full Members
  • 5,162 posts
  • 1 thanks
  • LocationMumbles
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 03 February 2017 - 08:13 PM

Mmmmm, engineering. Phwoar.
  • catsinthewelder, mat_the_cat and Hooli like this

75N Vauxhall 2300S | 76P Renault 16TL | 79T Rover 3500 | 82Y Jaguar XJ-S HE | 83A Jaguar Sovereign | 84B Talbot-Matra Rancho | 91H Audi 80 2.0E | 91J VW Golf Rivage cabrio | 99T Land Rover Discovery V8 | 06 Alfa Brera 2.2JTS | 14 BMW 428i

Please don't help crowdfund the running of the AS community Ford Sierra base at www.paypal.me/sierrabase


#892 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 05 February 2017 - 08:56 PM

Had quite a busy weekend, but made minor progress by replacing the core plugs. They'd have probably been OK, but for the cost it's a lot easier to change them now!

 

20170205_1139171.jpg

 

20170205_2022091.jpg

 

The biggest result has been permission to build it all up in the sitting room - nice and warm with less risk of condensation.


  • KruJoe, worldofceri, Banger Kenny and 4 others like this

#893 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,145 posts
  • 3 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 05 February 2017 - 09:06 PM

Building engines indoors is for winners.

 

When I eventually get to fit out my workshop (just a house to finish first) I'm putting a log burner in to save that conversation.



#894 OFFLINE   RayMK

RayMK

    Rank: BL Wedge

  • Full Members
  • 592 posts
  • 3 thanks
  • LocationMidlands
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 05 February 2017 - 09:18 PM

Had quite a busy weekend, but made minor progress by replacing the core plugs. They'd have probably been OK, but for the cost it's a lot easier to change them now!

 

attachicon.gif20170205_1139171.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20170205_2022091.jpg

 

The biggest result has been permission to build it all up in the sitting room - nice and warm with less risk of condensation.

 

Wise move (core plugs).  Two on mine are seeping.  Unfortunately mine is not a V8.  Incidentally, since the departure of my wife nearly ten years ago through lateness, my son and I have newly discovered such indoor freedom.  He has bikes everywhere, even one in his bedroom.  I sometimes think that a bit of female discipline might make me less embarrassed when friends/relatives/daughter turn up unannounced :-D .


  • KruJoe and mat_the_cat like this

#895 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,145 posts
  • 3 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 05 February 2017 - 09:22 PM

I've got a mate who once kept an A65 in the airing cupboard while he was restoring it. The neighbours around his flat were less than impressed when he started it indoors to check it worked before squeezing it in the lift to get it down to ground level.


  • mat_the_cat and RayMK like this

#896 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 06 February 2017 - 10:04 PM

Had quite a productive evening tonight, as first of all I drilled the holes in the valley to allow oil to drain over the timing gear:

20170206_1913051.jpg

 

20170206_1913211.jpg

 

Then put the camshaft in after smearing the journals with assembly lube.

20170206_1927051.jpg

 

I then gave the main bearing seats a final clean-up, and fitted the shells (really hoping that when this picture loads, all the shells have holes in them...)

20170206_1949061.jpg

 

Again used lube on the shells (including the thrust faces of the centre man bearing), and lowered the crank into position.

20170206_2004451.jpg

 

Main bearing caps were cleaned up and lowered into position, with the rear cap having these seals pressed into the side grooves. I also used a thin smear of silicone sealant underneath the rear cap.

20170206_2043181.jpg

 

All in place and torqued up, with the crank still spinning smoothly!

20170206_2107141.jpg

 

Lastly a check that the crank seal is in position. I'd read in Haynes to press that into place after fitting the rear main bearing cap. However to me it seemed easiest to slide it on the crank with it out of the block (with oil on the lip) as then I could see behind the lip to make sure it was seated correctly, and just move it into position whilst torquing the cap down.

20170206_2114351.jpg


  • Banger Kenny, Skizzer, Lacquer Peel and 4 others like this

#897 OFFLINE   dollywobbler

dollywobbler

    Beard in Wales

  • Full Members
  • 22,122 posts
  • 1 thanks
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 06 February 2017 - 10:57 PM

Ace. Because I've watched Roadkill Garage, I know things about breaking in camshafts. Not very much though. How do you do it? And how do you avoid trashing the rest of the engine? Isn't the drill to take it to fairly high RPM straight away?


1986 Citroen 2CV Dolly (In fewer bits) 1997 Vauxhall Omega 2.5TD (smoother)

1997 Honda S-MX (JDM YO!) 1999 Perodua Nippa EX (Tiny)

HubNut Blog      HubNut Vids    Twatter


#898 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,020 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 06 February 2017 - 11:23 PM

As I understand it (and I'm far from an expert!) the idea is to bed the cam lobe and lifter surfaces together, but avoid idle speeds - as this is where (splash) lubrication is lowest but also forces on the nose of the lobe are highest. 2k rpm is a figure I've read, but good to vary it slightly.

 

The new cam has a phosphate coating on the lobes, which helps the oil stick to it, and also acts as a dry lubricant if required.

http://www.phosphati...hosphating.html

I'm also going to be using plenty of assembly grease on it, but haven't coated it yet as that will just attract dust.

 

Hopefully the rest of the engine can take 2k rpm for 20 minutes without damage! I'll obviously be priming the oil pump with a drill prior to cranking.


  • Banger Kenny, DeeJay and Hooli like this

#899 OFFLINE   Pete-M

Pete-M

    ALL VXLs ARE SHIT.

  • Full Members
  • 8,639 posts
  • 0 thanks
  • LocationThe Glorious Peoples Republic of Liverpool.

Posted 06 February 2017 - 11:45 PM

Pack the oil pump with vaseline, then it'll prime a lot more easily.
  • Lacquer Peel likes this

214837.png 180526.png

Never knowingly inoffensive.


#900 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,145 posts
  • 3 thanks
  • LocationNr Doncaster
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 07 February 2017 - 01:02 PM

Excellent work, I do like a good engine build.


  • mat_the_cat likes this




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users