Porsche 924 white

[inconsistant]

Full of admiration for your work here Mr I, very impressive first time out.

 

Like many I am terrified of welding but seeing someone get results like that without the benefit of years of experience is an encouragement to all of us. Particularly impressed with that inner wing repair panel, nice work!

 

 

Thanks Parky!  Having someone guide me for the first bit made a massive difference, because you do get it wrong before getting it right, and it would be really disheartening not knowing what to change or improve. From what I can tell so far you need a welder that goes down to low power for the thin sheet steel, a gas welder is better than gasless, and then it's getting the right mix of power, wire feed speed and speed of movement. It's a lovely feeling the first time it works. It's like drawing with metal, suddenly you realise you can build things, anything, with metal. If you can afford the gas. Next time I'll look at getting a bigger gas bottle maybe renting which will be a bigger outlay but I won't have to worry about gas for months or years, way cheaper in the end. This disposable bottles are probably good if you've got a small patch to do.

 

Edit: As suggested in the previous post!

[Vince70]

I just wondered if the car show was in Bodiam, I do love the 924 and always wanted one but I think I’ve now missed the boat as it’s now impossible to buy a decent low mileage example on the cheap.

It seemed only about 4 years ago you could buy something straight with low mileage with a bit of history which needed a little light restoration for under a grand but those days are long gone.

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

Good news on the wing.......! I'd not worry too much about the welding - even on a good day we blow holes and end up screaming blue bloody murder. I think I can vouch for every single person picking up a sparkly stick as saying that's why they invented body rollers...... no-one likes welding upside down-EVER.

All hats donned and doffed several times for just getting on with it...... well bloody played sir.

 

As a suggestion - take a look at obtaining an argon mix if possible - I've found that a bit better for welding and you can rent bloody great big bottles for not so much...... but that will depend on how much welding you will have to / or are willing to do.

 

Best of luck fella - excellent reading and an inspiration to those of us stuck on our arses too often

 

EDIT - just seen above - go for the bigger bottle fella.......... it really will make sense in the long run

[danthecapriman]

Good news on the wing.......! I'd not worry too much about the welding - even on a good day we blow holes and end up screaming blue bloody murder. I think I can vouch for every single person picking up a sparkly stick as saying that's why they invented body rollers...... no-one likes welding upside down-EVER.

All hats donned and doffed several times for just getting on with it...... well bloody played sir.

 

As a suggestion - take a look at obtaining an argon mix if possible - I've found that a bit better for welding and you can rent bloody great big bottles for not so much...... but that will depend on how much welding you will have to / or are willing to do.

 

Best of luck fella - excellent reading and an inspiration to those of us stuck on our arses too often

 

EDIT - just seen above - go for the bigger bottle fella.......... it really will make sense in the long run

Must admit, loads of people suggest using Argo mix gas. I tried it and hate it! I stick to straight Co2 for everything now. One of those things I suppose, try it, see how you get on and use what works for you.

 

 

Brilliant work though, the inner wing repair looks bloody brilliant!

[Ian_Fearn]

Thanks Parky!  Having someone guide me for the first bit made a massive difference, because you do get it wrong before getting it right, and it would be really disheartening not knowing what to change or improve. From what I can tell so far you need a welder that goes down to low power for the thin sheet steel, a gas welder is better than gasless, and then it's getting the right mix of power, wire feed speed and speed of movement. It's a lovely feeling the first time it works. It's like drawing with metal, suddenly you realise you can build things, anything, with metal. If you can afford the gas. Next time I'll look at getting a bigger gas bottle maybe renting which will be a bigger outlay but I won't have to worry about gas for months or years, way cheaper in the end. This disposable bottles are probably good if you've got a small patch to do.

 

Edit: As suggested in the previous post!

 

I rent Pureshield Argon for TIG welding from BOC and use the Hobbyweld 5 for MIG. 

 

You really guzzle Argon for TIG but the Hobbyweld 5 (mix of Argon, Co2 and Oxygen) lasts well even though its a slightly smaller bottle.

 

My BOC account rental is about £60/year on something called the Volkszone deal (i've no interest in Volkszone, not even a member but if you quote the deal everyone in BOC seems to know about it). Each refill is about £55.

 

The first bottle of Hobbyweld was about £120 from my local supplier but you own it, no yearly costs and a refill costs ~£45-50. An equivalent amount of disposables would probably be ~£150-200 at a very rough guess.

[inconsistant]

Sunday: Early November. 

 

MOT is booked for tomorrow morning 8am, so I'd better get everything back together...

 

After a Saturday morning struggle and some unsavoury language I managed to get both bumper bolts on. One went on really easily, the other one was a nightmare. That bumper bracket is a rubbish design and I hate it. On about the 8th or 9th attempt and for no apparent reason the bolt found the nut and did up. I then turned to the lights, and I spotted that the drivers side indicator was a bit frosted up compared to the other one so I opened it up and found it had loads of rusty damp gunk in it and had been subject to a superb PO bodge involving lots of hot glue gun glue. (I'm sure Porsche didn't send them out of the factory like this). I think I'll be looking for another one of these units soon.

 

 

I connected up the headlamp washer pipes and they worked fine, but the windscreen washers didn't. Spent ages trying to work out why and disconnected all the pipes I could until the blockage was cleared and they started working. I've got 2 jets on the passenger side and one on the drives, and I can't see any way of accessing or removing the washer jets to get better than that. They might be heated but they don't work.

 

 

Thought I'd test the lights before screwing them back in, and found that my passenger side driving light flash didn't work. Swapped the units over and worked out it was the bulb, couldn't find one anywhere local but a chum who's an AA bloke had a rummage in his van and we found one. Hurrah! Lights down bumper light flashing restored.

 

 

 

The bumper lights screw into some odd hexagonal inserts that push into the bumper holes. The blue bumper was missing most of them so I had to get creative with some 5mm wooden dowel poked in from behind and some 4mm self tapping screws to screw into the dowel. Worked OK. 

 

 

 

With the bumper and lights back in and working it was time to fit the headlight covers. They went on fine with their new screws from the OPC and they're an oasis of decent paintwork at the front of the car. They match the replacement wing perfectly which is great.

 

 

 

I filled the washer bottle with finest Poundland windscreen washer liquid, zip tied the aerial to the inside of the wing so that it wouldn't move (no aerial hole in the wing yet), bunged some petrol in and gave it a wash ready for tomorrow morning's MOT. All done just as it got dark. Fingers crossed!

 

[inconsistant]

Monday morning, 7.45am and It wouldn't start, even with a jump from the other car. 

Ran fine yesterday afternoon. Effing cars.

[inconsistant]

Had to run to the garage with my son to let them know, I didn’t have their number it was only about 1/4 mile up the road. Thought I was going to have to pay for a missed MOT but they said it was fine and they're pop over and try to get it started later.  I did take the battery out and charged it last week, and it started and ran last night. It was really cold and frosty though so I think I was being over optimistic this morning though. I should have checked the weather and put the cover on over night. I'm also now convinced my cold start circuit isn't working (again...) and will need to investigate as a priority.

 

My son did make me grin when I was explaining what the MOT test was all about and he asked if it stood for Motors Over Three.

 

----

 

Later in the day update: garage got it started and tested it. 

Failed on:

Rear no plate lights not working, 

Headlight aim out

Emissions high@ 7.5%

 

----

 

Even later in the day update: MOT issued!

 

Yay, MOTed for another year. I can officially either weld to MOT standard, or hide bad welding to MOT standard.

[inconsistant]

MOT on the Monday, and on the Friday evening I drove it up to the NEC Classic car show. And I'm very pleased that it got me up there and back without any bother. It is a fine car... not used for 10 weeks then a 175 mile journey and didn't miss a beat. And I couldn't see any of the dodgy primer job or mismatched Gulf racing blue bumper from where I was sitting. Worked out 34mpg brim to brim over 350 mile round trip.

 

NEC car park shot for proof:

 

[danthecapriman]

Must admit, I actually quite like the blue front end...

[DodgeRover]

For a man who said he couldn't weld when I met you they look pretty good!

I was going to suggest panel beating the damaged but solid wing back into shape but you've got one step ahead.

 

SGS welding gases are far better value than hobby weld.

If you get desperate you can buy a small spool of no gas flux core wire from machine mart - some people get on ok with it.

[mercedade]

 

 

Later in the day update: garage got it started and tested it. 

Failed on:

Rear no plate lights not working, 

Headlight aim out

Emissions [email protected] 7.5%

 

----

 

Even later in the day update: MOT issued!

 

Yay, MOTed for another year. I can officially either weld to MOT standard, or hide bad welding to MOT standard.

 

 

As always, a fantastic read!

 

Details needed on the MOT pass - what was the emissions fandango all about then?

[Angrydicky]

Tell you what Rich, your welding is coming on incredibly well. GR8 thread too, 10/10.

[Parky]

High praise indeed from The Rt Hon A.Dicky who is a pretty mean sparkly stick pilot himself

[coalnotdole]

I've just spent the last hour reading through this thread from the very start ( having totally missed it before! )  Really enjoyed reading your write ups. Congratulations on the MOT.

[Felly Magic]

Ratlookyo, just need to slam it, add a roof rack & pineapple...Ooops sorry it's not a clapped out VW Polo I bet you are chuffed with those 2 wings, saves you a lot of aggro, result on MOT too, happy days

[beko1987]

Wow! Just read this for half an hour, 10 minutes ago I forgot to swallow and drooled all down my shirt I was so engrossed!

[somewhatfoolish]

I connected up the headlamp washer pipes and they worked fine, but the windscreen washers didn't. Spent ages trying to work out why and disconnected all the pipes I could until the blockage was cleared and they started working. I've got 2 jets on the passenger side and one on the drives, and I can't see any way of accessing or removing the washer jets to get better than that. They might be heated but they don't work.

If the jet is still blocked giving it a wazz with compressed air will/should shift even the most determined clog, or if you don't have a compressor a bicycle pump would be a suitably shite alternative.

[DaveDorson]

Damn it, I don't half miss having a 924.

 

No Dave..  remember the end goal..

 

*wanders off to ebay to look at buggered old 924s again*

[petermcpete]

No thread hijack intended, but have you ever had a problem with the temperature gauge?

 

Mine seems to be having electrical issues. It shows that it is running very hot...but then but killing the engine and immediately turning on the ignition it shows it sitting bang central where it should be.

 

Any ideas?

 

[inconsistant]

Sorry, not sure. Mine's the 2.0 litre one, from your sig looks like yours is the 2.5 924S and I've no idea about that engine other than knowing what it looks like. When I bought mine the temp gauge didn't work but a replacement temp sender fixed that, it was cheap and straight forward job but difficult to get to so I paid someone to do it.

As a novice I'd suggest swapping temp gauges or checking the sender, but I really haven't got much of a clue (see last 14 pages for more details). Might be worth trying the owners club forum?

 

https://porsche924.co.uk/forum/

 

They seem to know most stuff on there, and questions get answered in minutes/hours rather than days/weeks.

[inconsistant]

Time for another catch up on 924 ownership shenanigans.

 

December

In December 2017 I organised a 924 themed Scalextric Breakfast Racing meet for a bunch of 924 people, where all 924 activity was indoors and small scale. The event was inspired by the exciting release of the first ever (almost) Porsche 924 slot car, the gorgeous looking Falconslot 924 as raced at Le Mans in 1980. Unfortunately these Falconslot 924s don't share the handling characteristics of the real life cars, to much frustration and disappointment. At £60 a pop we thought they might be awesome but they were so bad that we gave up trying to even get one lap of the epic track we set up.

 

 

 

It was still lots of fun though as we had plenty of other Porsches to run

 

 

January 2018

Back to full sized cars and New Years Day in recent years has meant a trip to Brooklands for the New Year’s Classic Gathering, but due to a geographically inconvenient family commitment I didn’t make it there. It did make a nice change to start the year with a stinking hangover though.

 

February

It's easy to forget just how practical these cars are, and with the rear seat down I managed to rescue my mountain bike from the station and into the boot. Sporty AND practical!

 

 

Have some frost pix, because it was a harsh but pretty winter.

 

 

 

 

This winter saw no gaffer tape around the sunroof for the first winter since I’ve owned it. Instead, Poundland’s finest damp traps (50p each) were cunningly deployed in footwells and on the centre console carpeted area and repeated autumnal Vaseline rubbings all around sunroof seal plumped it up enough to create a convincing weatherproof seal. And not daring to open the sunroof all winter helped too. Along with the lack of holes in the battery tray and drivers inner wing/footwell this has helped keep the winter on the outside of the car, which has made a real difference to the lack of damp on the spring side of winter.

 

 

I also chose the bitterest weekend of the winter to swap the stereo and speakers over, despite having had them for months. Analogue Blaupunkt Bristol out, Digital Lubeck in. Original spec comedy sound 'paper over a comb' speakers came out and a lovely pair of JBL jobbies went in. I ended up out on the coldest weekend of the winter doing this job, which also needed the doors open too so I couldn’t even hide away from the worst of the weather inside the car.

 

The stereo swap was easy, other than needing an extra aerial adaptor off of eBay. I got the Lubeck stereo off of Cobblers who had installed a headphone wire to plug in an iphone/ipod which works really well. I'm now double digital: digital tuning with presets, which really adds to the late 80's experience and digital music via my music device of choice.

 

Before:

 

 

After:

 

 

The JBL speakers I bought earlier in the year stick out of the doors a bit so the grill isn’t flush with the door. I think I’ll make up something to hide the sides of the speakers to tidy up the gap between the speaker and the cover grill but in the meantime, well, you know when you have used wood screws to fix a job you’re not going to get that feeling of a job well done. Which I don't.

 

Speakers:

 

 

 

 

 

[inconsistant]

I took the car to the Black Swan Classic car breakfast meet near Guildford where I lowered the tone of ‘exotic corner’ quite significantly with my work in progress paint job.

 

 

I enjoyed the variety on show which was remarkable for such a cold, damp morning, there were some really interesting specimens, not just your standard well polished classic British sports car +sporty Ford fodder... I especially liked (despite being slammed) the early Audi 100, the white NSU TT being used as a daily, a lovely copper brown mk1 VW Scirocco and a 924 inspired 80's rotary Mazda RX7, as these were all cars I was writing about at the time in an article for the owners club mag on the history of the ex NSU factory at Neckarsulm where VW/Audi built the 924, so it was good to see them in the flesh and chat with the owners.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

March

 

Due to bad weather the car remained unused for a number of weeks. Having spent all that time and effort on the car in the autumn I couldn’t bare to subject it to other people’s heroic bad weather driving, or the salt on the roads. But the main reason was that the car was starting to become difficult to start.

 

Oh look, some more snow:

 

 

 

 

And when the snow melted I noticed something up with my lovely, lovingly reconditioned and resprayed headlight covers. Cock. The lovely paint job that I’d spent far too much time and effort getting perfect, now has loads of crazing.

 

 

 

 

But this wasn’t a balls up. Oh no, this was a learning opportunity. And I learned that there are two types of paint, Cellulose and Acrylic… and that Halfords Acrylic primers don’t mix with the Cellulose Alpine White paint I’ve got from Paints4u. 

 

 

Ideally I would have preferred to have learned this before painting them, but after feeling massively deflated I decided that it was probably best that I found this out on the headlight covers rather than a whole wing or the bumper. So now I’m OK about it, I’ve bought some UPol5 high build primer that’s cellulose based and I’m raring to go with the rest of the paintwork upgrades. But not yet, need to wait for better weather.

 

The car rapidly went from struggling to start to completely failing to start, it just clicked when I turned the ignition, and then nothing happened, not even dash lights. I was too busy with decorating to have a look, then a mix of bad weather and going away for Easter meant the car sat there for week after week waiting for me to have the inclination to try to diagnose the problem. A year or so ago the trusted mechanic I use noted that the starter motor might be on it's way out and suggested getting it refurbed and I've not done anything to it since then so I wondered if this might be it giving up. I should really have asked him why he suspected the starter.

 

I tried to use my patchy at best beginners knowledge of how cars work to methodically go through all the things that might be making it difficult to start over winter. The battery was only about 18months old and wasn't a cheap one, and mysteriously it did the same clicking thing when I tried to jump it form the other car.

 

I suspected a combination of things, mainly I suspected that I didn't know what the problem was. I also suspected my old battery charger wasn't working properly. I checked the battery with my multimeter and it was 11.97v before and 11.97v still after 48 hours of charging. That may be the reason why I had to keep 'charging' the battery but it still struggled to start.

 

Thanks to the generosity of TheMoog, who let me have his spare charger for the cost of postage, (this place, etc...) I now know that my old charger didn't do anything except turn its charging led light on for prolonged periods. The new Moogcharger got the battery up to 13v overnight. Brilliant!

 

April

 

So rather than try to sort out the problem I thought my time and money would be better spent buying a battery cover. My battery might not be doing what it's supposed to, but it would look smashing... the car doesn’t start but in a superficially tidy under bonnet fashion. The isolator knob on the -ve terminal spoils it a bit but I might take it off anyway.

 

 

May

 

Bank hols weekend and I was finally in the right frame offend to investigate the starting problem after not being able to use the car for a month or so. I suspected it might be the starter motor, but others on the internet and in real life with better carskills than me suggest it was either a break in the circuit or an earth problem.

 

I removed and cleaned up all earth connections under the bonnet even though I knew they were clean and tidy, and I jacked/axle standed the car and crawled underneath to check the wiring loom to starter and alternator, not really knowing what I was doing but that the advice I was given suggested it was a break in the circuit somewhere. I finally got it to start by putting a jump lead from the engine block to the -ve batt terminal but still couldnt work out what the prob was. I took the jump lead off and it wouldn't start again.

 

 

I had just done this because it was suggested, I didn't know what it was doing or why the jump lead from engine block to -ve battery was doing to make a difference, but I sort of worked out that it was bypassing the earth lead from engine to body and then the earth lead from body to battery, to make the circuit back to the battery.

 

So that must be where the problem was, between the engine block and the battery negative terminal. Which was what Stan and others were saying and I was pretending to understand. Knowing that the connection at each end of those earth leads were clean and tightly fixed I totally didn't understand. So I gave up, we had a BBQ, washed down with a lovely Sheppys Cider I'd recently imported from the outskirts of Taunton, and afterwards I was laying on the bench with my eyes shut enjoying the warmth and trying to work out what on 'earth' (see what I did there) was wrong. Then it struck me, like a smacker oblurdy which comen out f't I never thorcus before... the only thing it could be was the battery isolator knob I put on the -ve terminal years ago when I had a battery drain. I'd checked the connection to the earth lead, and the connection to the battery but I hadn't checked to see if the windy in and out knob itself was making a good connection.

 

 

I unwound the knob completely, and the underside that makes contact was really tarnished and there were some mild scorch marks on the surface. I cleaned both sides up with emery cloth, squirted a bit of WD40, replaced it and it now the car starts first turn of the key every time. I even went for a quick victory lap of our road and it was fine.

 

It was a bit frustrating that it was something so straight forward but at least I've now had a good poke around the starter wiring loom and know that's all ok. And probably a good lesson not to overlook the blindingly obvious just because I suspect it might be something bigger.

 

 

With the car back on the road I decided to go mad and do two car meets on the Sunday of that weekend. In the morning I went back to the Black Swan Ockham breakfast meet for a bacon roll and a wander around the assembled classics:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then in the afternoon I headed to Bangers Diner on the A249 for the Autoshite Smoll Kent Meet where I felt my car looked awesome parked up next to a C reg Skoda Estelle in fetching beige. It was smoll but perfectly formed, including RobT's dad's nice top of the range Rover 400 GSi, Joeyspud's Honda CRX with the removable roof panel, and Egg's very rare and oddly proportioned 3 door Mazda 323C from the 90’s. And OutlawBob's dirty stinking bypass pollutin' Alfa of much clag. Oh to see such awesome overlooked and mundane cars that no one in their right mind would be in the least bit interested in! Nice to see some known and unknown AS faces too and have a sensible chat about all sorts of car related rubbish. My 924 got referred to at one point as ‘Optimus Primer’ which I quite liked. Not all these photos are mine and I can't remember which ones I stole so apologies in advance for stealing.

 

 

 

 

 

So in all a relatively trouble free first half of the year. Which was nice.

[inconsistant]

June

 

As I sort out and tidy up the front of the car I'm making a list of stuff I ned. A couple of plastic clip type cable management things for the wiring to the front lights, a set of headlamp washer tubing as mine are caked in overspray, and some bumper lights and indicators. My drivers side indicator had been bodged at some point with hot glue gun and imagination... 

 

 

and the bumper lights don't match. One is clear and has a plastic housing and the other is frosted and has a metal housing. This is apparently an early version. I'd like them to match ideally so I'm hunting down replacements

 

 

 

July

 

So far this year my 924 has been reliable. Ugly, but surprisingly reliable. The starting problem was the accessory that I added and didn't look after so I can't blame the car for that. It's been a bit weird to take it of the road when nothing is wrong or needs fixing. But I really need to sort the front paint issues that I started in the autumn, and finish off tidying the welding I did on the inner wing. Any bare metal was covered with red oxide primer over the winter and it now needs making nice.

 

A quick recap before I make a start:

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, what a mess! 

 

So I whipped of the front bits of the car, and this time the bumper, valance, drivers wing and associated bits and bobs all came off in about 30 mins rather than the two weekends it took in the autumn. I thought my badge panel was removable but even though I undid the bolts along the engine edge it refused to budge and looked like it might have ben spot welded on, so I decided not to damage it trying to get it off and to paint it in situ.

 

I've been reading up and on the welding forum they mentioned these 'Poly Abrasive' discs for removing paint that are a bit less harsh than flap discs, so I bought a couple and tried them out on a scrap panel, and they're pretty good. I think they're sponge but set solid with something with abrasive sand in them to take the paint off.

 

 

 

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-stripping.htm

 

 

The paint comes off nicely and isn't too harsh on the metal underneath. Although they do wear out a lot quicker than a flap disc or know wheel. Anyway, I recommend them.

 

I'd red oxide primer'd over the bare bits so it was quite uneven where the paint had come of in flakes. I decide I'd remove the primer back to metal and start again.

 

 

 

 

I then went over it with some finer wet and dry to remove as much rough as I could

 

 

 

 

Then covered it in Jenolite rust remover as recommended by someone, It's thicker than the other stuff I've used in the past which makes it much more controllable as it doesn't run.

 

 

 

I also used the poly abrasive wheel on the grinder to remove some of the surface rust behind the bumper, around where the bumper brackets fit on and where the cable management things clip onto the bodywork. These were treated with Jenolite too.

 

 

 

 

 

Next job was to go over the bare/treated metal with some acid etch primer so I got started masking off all the other bits

 

 

I went over it all a couple of times with a light dusting:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's where I am so far, hoping to make some progress this weekend. 

I had some useful recommendations and links I've got some over-paintable Wurth stone chip 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3x-NEW-WURTH-Underseal-Underbody-Stone-Guard-Under-Seal-500ml-SPRAY-MASTER-GUN/263295528147?hash=item3d4da2ecd3:g:I2AAAOSwTM5Y0sUL

 

to do the valance and to cover the inner wing weld repairs, and some strips of seam sealant 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/332389805180?chn=ps

 

so I can get the drivers wing back on properly and permanently. I'll be pulling the passengers wing off soon to see what the inner wing is like on that side... after last year's welding action I'd like to catch any problems as early as possible. And this time I'm really looking forward to getting stuck in rather than dreading what I might find. I just hope I can maintain the enthusiasm to the end!

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

Excellent news and reporting dude..... Primer is doing well and the dry interior over winter is a major achievement! I too 'tried' out those abrasive discs as I intend stripping the Trump saloon and Spitfire in the coming month(s). Didn't use on a scrap piece first though - oh no - smart bollocks here tried it on his crash helmet he'd spent weeks getting smooth for a repaint...... straight through to fibreglass shell - FU******* 

 

I wasn't aware Jeniolite can be painted over - or did you rinse it first? I know some are, some are not - just wondering.

[inconsistant]

According to their website:

 

 

JENOLITE No Prime removes rust, provides a seal to prevent its return and allows surfaces to be painted over without the need for a primer. Suitable for over coating with most traditional paints. Other properties include good chemical and salt spray resistance. Provides a barrier to water vapour, oxygen and carbon dioxide. Also provides excellent resistance to bacterial growth.

JENOLITE rust converter does two jobs in one – it gets rid of the rust and converts the once rusted area into a stable surface, ready to paint.

[Skizzer]

Cracking stuff. That’s proper bo, that.

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

HA HA - MOST* traditional paints.......... they do josh! 

 

Saying that - hope you don't get a reaction like the last job..... good luck fella.

[barrett]

Nice to see this back on the front page. Probably my favourite thread on AS.

[danthecapriman]

Great progress! Can’t wait to see the painted article...