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What is value are these please ?  I want to sell them . . .

 

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Genuine BMW, original Pannier Liners (the pair) and small tank bag (if I can find the base straps) in good to very good / rarely used condition ?  They are from my 1996 K75 Ultima, which I sold a few months ago, so would fit the panniers of that era, ie., the colourful K1, the K100, K1100 and K75 range, and possibly also the R900 and other R-series models.?

 

A new 'Genuine BMW Side Touring Case Left Pannier Inner Liner Bag' for the  R1200 RT  is £106 (each side) < here >.  And a new 'Genuine BMW Motorrad Rear Tank Bag Rucksack' for the R1200GS Adventure < here > is £217 ..from Motorrad Direct.  

 

However a pair of aftermarket pannier liners can be bought for less than £40 inc P&P.   So their value must lie somewhere between £40 and £429 ..if these were new.  However they are not, and although in generally very good condition I noticed today that the tank bag has a small hole through the corner of the plastic map pocket.  

 

Does anyone belong to a BMW owners / riders club &/or knows what someone with a prized K-series has or would sensibly pay for a decent set of soft luggage / liners ?

 

Thanks,

Mr. desperately trying to raise some money Bfg  ;)

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On a work avoiding day today, 3 tip runs and then washed the bike which I didn’t do when I put it away cos I’m a tool and now it needs many cleanings.

 

Also fired up townmate which took 4 kicks to go. Still it has sat still since New Year’s Day.

 

Anyone know a bike specific valeter in the NW?

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What is value are these please ?  I want to sell them . . .

 

attachicon.gifP1300613 BMW Luggage liners.jpg

 

Genuine BMW, original Pannier Liners (the pair) and small tank bag (if I can find the base straps) in good to very good / rarely used condition ?  They are from my 1996 K75 Ultima, which I sold a few months ago, so would fit the panniers of that era, ie., the colourful K1, the K100, K1100 and K75 range, and possibly also the R900 and other R-series models.?

 

A new 'Genuine BMW Side Touring Case Left Pannier Inner Liner Bag' for the  R1200 RT  is £106 (each side) < here >.  And a new 'Genuine BMW Motorrad Rear Tank Bag Rucksack' for the R1200GS Adventure < here > is £217 ..from Motorrad Direct.  

 

However a pair of aftermarket pannier liners can be bought for less than £40 inc P&P.   So their value must lie somewhere between £40 and £429 ..if these were new.  However they are not, and although in generally very good condition I noticed today that the tank bag has a small hole through the corner of the plastic map pocket.  

 

Does anyone belong to a BMW owners / riders club &/or knows what someone with a prized K-series has or would sensibly pay for a decent set of soft luggage / liners ?

 

Thanks,

Mr. desperately trying to raise some money Bfg  ;)

 

Stick them on eBay and let them find their own value, you may be surprised, you may be disappointed, its hard to throw a number out because to me they are worth nothing as I don't have a k series.

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Fuck this Atala.

It's not ever going to run right with the engine and electrical system it has.

 

I need to find another 2 stroke engine with electrics that'll work. Pondered shoving a C90 engine in it but it's just wrong.

I know all I need about the engine and electrical system to know it has to be swapped for something else.

Anybody see any Tomos, Puch or other such engines, or basket case bikes with engine potential, please let me know, this thing is making my piss itch!

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Evening all,   Just dropping in to share a few tidbits I've been doing on 'Katie' over the past couple of afternoons.

 

The old girl's not shite to me ..but neither is she polished and glitz either . .

 

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^ she's on m' lift for a few minor jobs (..ok, cleaning might be one of them !).   

 

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She's an early Sunbeam S7 (post-war, frame number 986. ..first registered on 22nd March 1948.   So not old, just eight-and-one-half years ..older than me  :-D 

 

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^ Foremost task was to replace an annoyingly weeping sump gasket. I can live with a wisp of seeping but I'm embarrassed by incontinence when it drips !  ..so I drained the oil and dropped the sump. 

 

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This early model features a really daft bit of design detailing ..a rebate in the (very shallow) sump pan to locate its oil filter box.  The problem is that the rebate cuts across the mounting holes, so a single gasket over the top doesn't work. 

 

There's no gaskets specifically made for the early S7 now,  so I had to make one (or three !?) myself. .

 

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^ the first I made to fill that rebate.. And yes., the middle is yet to be cut out

 

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^ The filter box will sit on that inset cork and is pinched in place by the crankcase. I've bedded the gasket in place with gasket sealant. ie. its underside face is now glued to the sump pan.  I then cut two more pieces, one to go around the outside of the oil-filter-box flange and another to sit over that and the flange.

 

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^ two pieces glued together and with the holes - it looks like this. It'll fit face down over the filter box, with the box's flange sitting in this rebate. 

 

The glue and sealant will sit and dry overnight & perhaps tomorrow too, before I fit it.

- - -

 

My next little job was something many of you are not familiar with, not at least on a regular basis .. that'll be greasing (nipples) in the brake linkage, suspension and wheel hubs.

 

And then when that was done, I adjusted the back brake .  .

 

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^ The back brake-lever is on the LHS side on most old British bikes. ;)   This one then has a rod linkage (the chrome rod seen alongside the tool box) which activates a lever on the end of a cross-link bar (seen disappearing across the frame to the other side of the bike, behind the tool box ).  NB. The rear brake light switch is an aftermarket item ..because this vintage of bike didn't have brake lights.  Come to think of it I recall the law changed ..was it later that same year ? ..to make them compulsory.

 

On the other side of the bike . . .

 

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^ That cross-link comes out on the RHS, just under the tail end of the in-series gearbox. A lever on its end is actuated as the cross-link bar rotates, and that pulls on the chrome brake rod (running parallel with the drive shaft ..but for its kink around the suspension). And then finally.. another levered shaft through the rear drive's bevel box, to the brake drum situated within.  

 

The short n' long of it is that these all ought to be correctly orientated and adjusted - for maximum leverage.  ie., those levers need to be as near to 90o angle to their operating rods as practical and any 'play' needs to be adjusted out. First however the back brake has a car type adjuster . . .

 

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^ on the RH forward side of the rear drive / brake back-plate is a square peg (..in a round hole) that many of you who've had drum-brake cars will be familiar with adjusting. It's a very good system - but not a common feature on motorcycles, as most used adjustable bowden cables. And then of course things went across to disk brakes with hydraulics.

 

I bought this bike several years ago but was in dismay with the quality of some of its cycle-parts restoration (done in the early '80's, although I'm sure the engine has very recently been rebuilt) and the way bits of it had been put together.  The cam-follower shaft for example had been put in back to front, so oil couldn't get into it ..to thereafter lubricate the rockers and overhead camshaft.  Clearly the last owner hadn't done any miles on the bike ..because otherwise the camshaft would certainly have died a most untimely and painfully skidmark death.  And fortunately I'd spotted the error during my 'new bike' pre-start checks (before riding these bikes I check the lubrication is actually getting to their camshaft) so again no damage was done.   But when I rode the bike I realised it needed more sorting than I had the time for., so I put it away for a rainy day  (..today wasn't wet as it happens).

 

One of the jobs on the list was to establish why the back brake seemed to have 4" of travel and then didn't work. 

 

Today I found that four-sided brake adjuster pin was wound all the way OUT  :mrgreen:  ..tight against its stop.  Perhaps the restorer thought "Vintage bike brakes are always like that mate" ..and so didn't dare ride the bike.

 

Actually the brakes on this model are surprisingly good ..once they are adjusted correctly. And its performance and handling ..despite having no damping to the front forks nor its plunger rear suspension is better than most other immediate post-war bikes  (..sports types, Vincent, etc. excepted).  It's darn comfortable too !

 

With a little progress (..in the right direction) made - That'll be all for tonight, 

I bid you a sheltered one.

Bfg. B) 

- - -

 

p.s. Not having a good back brake on a vintage bike is something to be very wary of.  Why ?  ..Because all motor-cycles of this era were designed to be braked front & rear, both in unison together. Ostensibly this was to prevent the front end from diving, which adversely effects steering geometry and balance - but there were practical reasons too...  Wheel hubs and brake drums were most commonly made of cast iron or steel.  And as far as was practical - the front brakes were made as lightweight as practical. As a consequence they were small drum brakes that didn't work very well.  But this was safer ( ! )..because the forks and their spindly wire-spoked wheels bent too much anyway. :shock:   

 

Rear wheel hubs were bigger because they very often had the drive-chain sprocket bolted on, so the brake was also larger and the spokes were shorter / stronger.

 

Sports bikes used larger diameter aluminium wheel hubs / brake drums, very often with cooling fins. (NB. shorter spokes = stronger / stiffer wheels). And also aluminium brake back-plates. For the same weight these bigger brakes were much more effective. Their forks were made more robustly or else had an additional cross-brace (either above or just under the mudguard) to help prevent their twisting.  NB. aluminium also dissipates heat better than iron or steel. 

 

The Sunbeam S7 (and later the S7-deluxe) used cast-aluminum back-plates, and its front and rear brake (drums & pads) are the same size.  When very narrow 6" front drum brakes were commonplace, these were 8" in diameter and also had wider drums / brake pads. Its famed 'fat tyres' disguise this underlying benefits and also that of their wheel's much shorter / stronger spokes.   Sunbeam's more sporting S8 model (introduced in 1949)  had BSA A10 front forks with a steel brake back-plate, and its front brake drum was narrower and only 7" in diameter (..those forks and wheels are not stiff enough for more).  The early S7's front forks, aside from the top and bottom steering yokes - had a substantial cross brace (over the mudguard. see my first photo) and then the mudguard and its stays are also very strongly built. The additional cross-brace was dropped from the later S7-deluxe model.

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Looks like a Cagiva Elefant 125 with a coating of Nato green and a rack.

 

Think the engine is as Mito, most will have been imports from France or Italy anyway so full power (30ish hp?)

 

Pretty rare in the UK in any form I think, a jap equivalent will be easier to find for sure.

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Looks like a Cagiva Elefant 125 with a coating of Nato green and a rack.

 

Think the engine is as Mito, most will have been imports from France or Italy anyway so full power (30ish hp?)

 

Pretty rare in the UK in any form I think, a jap equivalent will be easier to find for sure.

 

I'd love a Japanese equivalent but they're all so spendy. Any recommendations for a cheapy?  I've found one of these Cagivas on leboncoin for €700..

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I'd love a Japanese equivalent but they're all so spendy. Any recommendations for a cheapy? I've found one of these Cagivas on leboncoin for €700..

What dept? May be able to bring one back for the £50 the ferry charges for a moped rack on the back of the camper if you could wait for June/July if it’s not the other end of France from dept 22.

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My VFR has done 85K now, and though it still runs perfectly the handling is busted - it feels very 'odd' in bends, it's all a bit 'wheelbarrow' (stop me if I'm getting too technical here).  The fork oil hasn't been changed in about 5 years/40K, so have spent the afternoon replacing it.  Old stuff didn't look great.

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Too stormy to try it but I'm hoping it'll sort it; rear shock has never had any attention though, but I need to strip most of of rear of the bike to remove it.  

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Oh yes - tiny but beautifully formed. 

Add 25 stone Northern Bloke for comic effect.

 

Nice one. A mate had one of those on his bench in 1000 pieces for years - eventually he persuaded me to buy it and I put it together over a weekend for a laugh. I was going to insure it, but then a friend of a friend offered me £££ for it so off it went.

 

It was a nice looking little thing, I will have a hunt round for some pics...

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Right then, let's talk Vision...

 

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Much was there hilarity at the test centre...

 

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"While you're here, I've got something you'll love."  "Really? Oh go on then, shove it in the van with the other one." :rolleyes:

 

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All done and dusted!

 

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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-vision-50-1989/401716875820?hash=item5d8831122c:g:j98AAOSwYXVcdVZy:rk:6:pf:0

 

Hells bells!

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I have a sudden desire to own one of these ex French-military Cagiva 125 two strokes. This one seems a bit salty, wonder if I could get one cheaper from France? 

 

Anyone know anything about them? 

 

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I can say it is not a Mito engine, as it is aircooled. More likely to be the Moto Minerelli engine (as fitted to a number of Fanticmodels) as Fantic were taken over by Cagiva at some point or other. Not bad engines, as very tunable and not too fragile-got to be worth a punt at 700, surely?

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Finally got a spare hour to wash the Versys and take a few pics

I’m looking for 1500 firm to a shiter .

Starts runs and rides fine . Has been a daily rider for the previous owner so some corrosion around the frame welds etc but a good weekends tinkering would have it looking pretty tidy

Data tool alarm with spare blips / keys . Full book pack etc

Tyres are a bit low and squared off , few more thousand commuting miles but I’d change them for pleasure riding personally .

Side stand is a bit worn and lets it lean a bit more than ideal .

I’d ride this anywhere tho and it’s comfy / economical post-17246-0-54011300-1551724531_thumb.jpegpost-17246-0-44398800-1551724760_thumb.jpegpost-17246-0-06187000-1551724777_thumb.jpegpost-17246-0-74993400-1551724794_thumb.jpegpost-17246-0-65879900-1551724814_thumb.jpegpost-17246-0-83762800-1551724831_thumb.jpeg

post-17246-0-65090300-1551724851_thumb.jpeg

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1000 in for it's Mot.   52 plate K2 

 

Pass - 

 

1x exhaust slightly noisy (dB killer refitted)

1x front tyre approaching limit (imminent replacement if it sells for decent price)

1x chain slightly tight (it's bang on when adjusted last week but I'll recheck it).

 

12k on clock.

Bobbins, RedScorpion can.

 

Rest bog-standard.

 

£2500 as is. (AS)

 

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Better pics to come.

 

Previous mx injury and wire in shoulder means sit up and beg style. New ad in main forum

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