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1980 Austin Princess


vulgalour

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Re the knocking noise from the head

 

Mine was doing this

 

It was a failed water pump bearing. The water pump isn't anywhere near the head but the noise was being translated up through the block very efficiently. Check for slack in ancillary moving parts before writing off the engine.

 

 

Phil

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Thank you!  I just had a listen and it was indeed coming from the water pump.  Turned the car off and gave the pulley a wiggle and there's play in the water pump bearing.  That would have taken me forever to find.  I'll find a replacement and get it ordered.  Annoyingly, the pump that's on has only lasted a couple of years, I put a new one on back in 2013 because the one that came on the car had a bearing that sounded like it was full of gravel.

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I wouldn't be surprised if they were using Tic Tacs instead of steel.

 

Let's have an update. The recent hot weather, which I'm lead to believe is something called 'Summer', has put paid to me wanting to don protective gear and do welding. Especially so, in fact, because the unit has this amazing property where on a hot day it's hotter inside and on a cold day it's colder inside. Probably something to do with it being an ex-RAF hanger with no insulation. Anyway, I digress.

All has been running fairly smoothly, with a couple of niggles. The dieseling/running-on problem I had seems to have been down to the fuel mix being a tiny bit lean and knackered spark plugs, having sorted out both these things I appear to have fixed that problem, even in the really hot weather we've been having. Then, a little while ago the fuel gauge wouldn't read more than 7/8ths full which led to me overfilling the tank and spilling petrol all down the side of the car because I was sure it should take more fuel. More recently, the fuel gauge started going up and down at random and yesterday it stopped working altogether. Today I determined to start fault finding and naturally the fuel gauge was working again, sort of. There's 3/4 of a tank of fuel in the car at the moment but the gauge read here.
43085909042_5b0fe6128c_b.jpg20180701-11 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

It bobbed up and down a bit when idling, I turned it off, had a bit of a think of what I might check without removing the dashboard, and then went back to it. The gauge then decided it wanted to work normally, but only up to half tank. I suspect it's a faulty gauge or voltage regulator. both known issues on these, and I've already replaced the regulator once when the previous one failed randomly. It's a dash out job to investigate and since I want to refinish the dashboard to match the interior properly, I decided to order some veneer and have a go at doing that rather than painting it. I've never done veneer work before but the theory seems simple enough if I take my time and given the simple flat shape of the dashboard, I'm hoping it doesn't give me too much grief to spruce up. If it does give me too much grief I've always got my fallback option of paint.

The other irritation was discovering the occasional knocking noise is actually a failed waterpump bearing, on a waterpump that's not more than 6 years old since it was one of the first things I replaced when I got the car. Fortunately, they're not too difficult to get hold of and a new one was delivered for a total cost of £15. I've not fitted it yet because it's been too darned hot and it's difficult to swear at annoying bolts when there's sweat running into your eyes. I've been keeping an eye on leaks too, and it wouldn't be a BL product if it didn't leave its moniker everywhere it stopped. That said, it's a very small moniker these days, so I'm just choosing to live with it and deal with bigger problems.
41324949980_b3da456e69_b.jpg20180701-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The summer has been less kind on the rear window stickers, which it is steadily destroying. The Leyland Princess one hasn't been in there very long, the Autoshite one a few years and is now suitably foxed, and the RR one has been in there pretty much since 2012 and appears to be slowly catching fire.
43085911132_ce72b9f64b_b.jpg20180701-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

43085911632_46f6a3c550_b.jpg20180701-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

It's also been seriously dusty here lately. Car seems to need washing daily, but nobody has time for that. Look at the state of this.
43085912612_784b14f241_b.jpg20180701-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

So mostly all I've been doing is driving the car and using it as a car. I'm enjoying it too. It's been a little while, so here's where we are with the bodywork and paint. I actually repainted the rear driver's side wing today when the weather had cooled down a bit and it turned out okay, even though there's welding work still needed on that panel. Having more of the car in the correct colours makes the work to do seem much less daunting and I'm looking forward to cracking on with the welding and last bits of paint once the weather has cooled down a little bit.

28266479907_14a25963e6_b.jpg20180701-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

28266478717_8ddac50d08_b.jpg20180701-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

41324950280_5f5b577747_b.jpg20180701-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

28266477877_3aaa94586c_b.jpg20180701-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

41324952310_2303f1f3cd_b.jpg20180701-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

43085913392_604623dca1_b.jpg20180701-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Might do the water pump tomorrow, we'll see how I get on.

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Has Mike got a variable resistor in his box of electrical stuff? It could be then set to known resistances (service manual) using a multimeter and then connecting across the fuel sender lines at the tank. That way you should find if it's the sender or at the dash end.

 

I suspect it may be a stuck sender. My MGB got stuck at quarter of a tank a lot of the time. Turned out the resistive wire had a ridge in, bunched up and pulled off. This caused it to stick.

[Video]

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Had a pounds shillings and pence till in reserve too, just in case the metric system didn't catch on. 

 

I remember as a smol kid being in the local butchers on Lodge Lane in Liverpool. There was an old lady in there saying that she was going to stay with her daughter in Wales where they wouldn't have funny bloody new coins. I hope she was right.

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If it the sender then that is An Problem because it'll mean faffing with that stupid locking ring that doesn't lock properly again.  So let's hope it is the dash stuff as suspected.  It could just be a loose connection, or just that the Princess is having one of her moments.

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Since the mercury has dropped a little, let's ignore the fuel gauge which has gone back to not working, and the water pump which is working well enough, and do some welding instead. Not much, mind, it's hot in the overalls.

 

28307454597_d94372a68c_b.jpg20180703-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

That's the big patch done.  There's just the bits on the side and the corner, most of which it looks like I can salvage from the orange door on the car, and then it's the much simpler job of repairing the outer skin.

43177077111_c2822cab41_b.jpg20180703-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I might have that done this week since the first week of the month is always a bit quieter with work and even if the temperatures stay high, I should at least be able to plod through these last repairs.  When the door is welded up I'll finally be able to get it in paint and get the front wing sorted too.  It's not going to be a lot of fun to do the alignment but once done it shouldn't need doing again for a long time.

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It was lovely and cool when I started today, soon became unbearable at the unit as the day went on.  Still, got some more welding done and very nearly finished one side of the door.  The rusty bits were very rusty but also very localised so it was surprisingly easy to cut back to good steel.  This was really the most solid bit that I removed, which is the bit just under the door latch.

43197874161_e872a84e14_b.jpg20180704-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I'd taken the worst of the spare doors I'd got in with me, a rear passenger door.  It was too far gone to repair, really, but ideal for offering donor sections once it was stripped down.  I've saved all the fixings, latches, and glass because they're they sort of bits that are very difficult to source and always useful to have as insurance against future mishaps.  The door skin isn't much use as a door skin due to lots of dents and rust, but it is a really large piece of useful steel.  It also looks like the inner frame has useful shapes to help with the remaining door repairs too.

29326355528_d760aa1b5b_b.jpg20180704-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

It took one of the pressings from the rear door to replace the rusted out section on the front door as it was exactly the same.  I also took a folded edge from the inside frame of the spare door to repair the rotted out different edge on the door I'm repairing which saved me quite a bit of time fabricating the shape neatly.  The welds are fresh from the gun, they'll look better once I've given them a tickle with the flapwheel and splashed a bit of paint about.

43197873841_d94bdbe602_b.jpg20180704-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to finish off the corner of the inner frame and maybe even finish off the outer skin.  Fuel guage today has read empty, just under the red, quarter gauge, in the red, half gauge (for about a second), and just peeking up out of the red.  I'm looking forward to pulling the dashboard this time because the new veneer has arrived and I have all the tools, glue, and varnish needed to re-veneer.  I've never done veneer work before so it'll be interesting to see the theory put into practice, it looks straightforward enough, it's a lot like wallpapering and I'm pretty good at that.

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I was going to just use a bunch of bricks separated from the veneer by a towel or similar.  That vacuum bag idea is inspired, though perhaps less ideal for my application since the dash panel is full of holes for dials, etc.  A great solution if I was building from a fresh plain panel and drilling the holes afterwards, that's today's new thing learned.

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Vacuum bag veneering a piece with holes is fine as long as you're careful with where you spread the glue if using contact adhesive. Edd China did it on an early episode of Mike Brewer gets Edd to spiv up shite Wheeler Dealers (XJ-S I think) on a centre console piece which had many holes for gearstick, handbrake etc.

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The temperature dropped considerably today, so that made progress lots easier.  After replacing the missing corner of the inner frame, I marked out and chopped off the bottom of the outer skin where needed.  Repairing the inner frame wasn't too difficult, though the repairs even when dressed back are clearly not professional.  Really, I needed to dismantle the door into component pieces and spend a very long time fabricating repair sections rather than just making it solid and I genuinely haven't got the time for that.  I can redo this all in the future if I desperately want to win trophies at shows, but for a daily driver it's perfectly acceptable.
 
Anyway, after chopping out another enormous section of the door bottom I could get a section taken from the door I'd cut up and tack that in.
29347223498_1b0e684ce5_b.jpg20180705-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
 
Then it was just a case of spending an age putting tacks in.  Then tacks between the tacks.  Then tacks between those tacks.  Then welding every third gap between the tacks.  All in an effort to keep the temperature of the panel down.  This worked, but my panel cutting skills left something to be desired so it's going to definitely need filler when I dress the welds down.
41408709250_9d4f1e82f7_b.jpg20180705-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
 
Dealt with the two minor rust holes in the odd places and then doused everything in rust converter because I didn't have time to get paint on this today.
41408709610_b635884054_b.jpg20180705-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
 
29347222698_d1c445e70e_b.jpg20180705-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
 
I'm happy enough with it.  I would have liked to have done a better job but I haven't the tools, skills or time to do that so I'm going to chalk this one up to experience with lessons learned for the next door I do.  It's also only the second door I've repaired so I do need to cut myself a bit of slack.  Next job is to dress the welds back, fill on the inside where required, and paint the inside only.  I think I'm then going to fit the door to the car before foldiing the lower edge properly and before painting it so that I stand a better chance of getting a nice even gap at the bottom.  Then I can drill the drain holes, paint the door, and build it back up again.
 

I'm fairly hopeful that realigning the wing and door and getting the paint work done will go fairly quickly and the car will very suddenly look very good all at once.  I'm going to probably put off repairing the last door (rear driver's) until I've done the lower rear wing repairs and got the new rear lights in.  It's all quite exciting now I've got this driver's door sorted.

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Today could have gone better, it could have gone worse.  I only intended to do a trial fit of the repaired door and fold the outer skin over.  That progressed into dressing back the welds and getting it as close to being read for filler as I could.  It's not the finest repair in the world, but it'll certainly do the job.  I was going to put the drain holes in, but Mike has the only working drill with him today elsewhere.  Still, the door is as finished as I can make it before the pretty stuff now and it should do the job for a few ,more years, I hope.

 

41430914720_b1b02f5bb5_b.jpg20180706-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

41430914650_9aec4ef7da_b.jpg20180706-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Since the driver's door was off, I thought it'd be a good idea to get the wing stuck on properly.  I abandoned my idea of converting it to bolt on because, honestly, I cba.  When I started this I could, but now I most definitely cannot, so if it gets replaced in the future I'll be cutting it off and may consider converting to bolt on then.  After much faffing and clamps and more faffing and clamps I got the wing lined up as well as it would with everything else and welded it to the cleaned up wing rail.  When I've got the drill I'll put a few more welds in on here, so don't worry about how few there are for the moment.

41430914640_39f2cbdb63_b.jpg20180706-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Got the edge that joins the valance tacked together.  I'm not going factory for the join, I'm just welding it smooth and flattening it all off when I'm done.  I need to get this on the ramp or stands or something to do it properly, I hadn't the patience today to do more than tack weld it in place.

41430914580_1c7ba3db9b_b.jpg20180706-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The most satisfying bit was getting the headlight surround area stable again.  The gaps on both my plastic headlight surrounds have always been terrible and they're about as good as they're willing to get now.  The gaps on both are the same, so it's balanced at least.  There's more work to do here, things are tacked together so it's stable enough, but there's some more welding and a little trim alignment fettling to be done in the near future.

41430914480_fa4f3b3838_b.jpg20180706-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Then there was a problem.  After getting everything all tied togther nicely I closed the door and... it didn't close.  The panel gap between the door and wing had gone.  Now, I went around everything and adjusted things and moved things and fannied about for ages to try and figure this out until I eventually admitted defeat and decided to instead slice the back edge off the repaired wing and weld it back on about 2mm further forwards.  This was difficult and stressful to do because I was too hot, I was not taking the time I should to be making a really nice job of it, and I was a bit fed up.  I was also really eager to get the car back in one piece properly so I could get home for something to eat.

41430914540_db0090cefa_b.jpg20180706-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I sorted out as much of it as I needed to so that the door would open and close again, tidied up, and went home which is where I took the pictures in this update.  I am at least happy that the panel gaps are better, not perfect, but certainly better.  This job was still easier than the last round of welding, and the next job of dressing this back and finishing the welds will be easier still.  Each job will continue to get easier, because each job is progressively smaller now.  I hope.

 

41430914330_38b6105fda_b.jpg20180706-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Welding did not happen today.  Instead I stayed at home and did paint, getting regular football updates from the cheering of the neighbourhod.  I gather we won.  I don't care about that though, I care about getting paint on this door so I can fit it to the car and have a window that actually opens.

 

29390407078_49afcb6fe4_b.jpg20180707-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I didn't do any filler work on this at all as the bits that are visible are going to be easier to do the filler work on the car and the bits that aren't visible, I'm not putting filler on.  There is literally no point putting filler on bits of this car you cannot see, so I will not waste my time on it.  At least not this year.

42541897654_714b21ae1c_b.jpg20180707-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

43259960231_36984db1ff_b.jpg20180707-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Amusingly, I now have the drill but both times I've gone out today I've forgotten to get the drill bits (only got masonry ones here) for putting the mirror and drain holes in, and have also forgotten to get the door glass since I can't use the one in the orange door because of rotted out window guides.  That's okay, it's the weekend and a scorcher, so it gives the fresh paint a bit of time to harden before I start bashing chunks out of it fitting the door back to the car.  No welding happened either, it was almost too hot to be painting in the shade and it's definitely been too hot to be driving a car with no air conditioning and a window that you can't open.

 

Nearly there now though.  I'm excited about how much better the car is going to look in a couple of days.

43259960021_5235903e9c_b.jpg20180707-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Trouble with sharing tools is you sometimes have to put jobs off, that's why I haven't put the repaired door on the car today.  Instead, I waited until it was cooler and headed over to the unit to see what jobs I could finish off.  There was an incident with weld splatter going down my ear so that made me down tools a bit early.  Even so, I got plenty of little fiddly jobs done.  Jobs like the front wing seam I hadn't finished (this was actually the last job, doing the underside is when I got the inside of my ear welded).  There's a bit more to do on this, I have to let in a small 2"x4" patch where the wing is a bit thin underneath but I'll do that on the lift when it's free to avoid ear-weld interface.

43232127112_5ebfab5bd4_b.jpg20180708-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Flattened off the welds on the other end of the wing and did a little trimming at the bottom so it follows the line of the sill better.  The panel gap disappears at the bottom as the bottom of the wing isn't actually secured yet, I need the drill and suitable drill bits so I can get that attached with bolts or weld and then the gap will pull something like again.

42377178245_649904742f_b.jpg20180708-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The biggest job was doing the rear lower quarter section.  My repair piece is a little crude, I couldn't get my head around the bit of the panel where the curve of the wing meets the flare of the arch so I got it as close as I could and I'll profile with a small amount of filler.  Also welded up the bumper hole which will be on the receiving end of some filler as well.  There's a small piece of arch to replace here too, something I can do later since it needs thinking about for the best approach.  I also need the car up in the air a bit so I can do the join between the outer and inner wing underneath the car that I couldn't easily get to today.

42377177915_b4c7741008_b.jpg20180708-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

There's very little welding to go now:

- driver's rear arch return

- passenger's rear wing lower corner

- new rear light buckets

- rear window surround repairs

- upper C pillar trim holes (6 of, easy job)

- rear driver's door lower corner repair

 

It all feels a lot more managable and definitely more in the realm of tinkering than slogging now, so I'm starting to really enjoy myself.

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Got a little further today.  I've been very patient about getting a pair of Austin A30 sidelights for an idea I've had for ages which I nicked from the Citroen DS of old.  High level indicators.

 

43256893492_c647e7cd42_b.jpg20180709-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

29436692378_c7153884dd_b.jpg20180709-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

They're only designed to be supplementary at a level more common for modern drivers.  The high level brake light made quite a difference so high level indicators felt sensible.  I wanted something that would blend into the rest of the car and options were very limited.  I didn't want to go modern and had tried a few things before settling on these.  The only issue was the price, with pairs often going for £50+ which is frankly insane.  My pair cost me about a tenner  It took a while to find a spot I liked them, I wanted them to be fairly invisible, even though they're a substantial chunk of chrome, and to flow from the line of the gutter as much as possible.  This was the best location for them to go so that everything could be installed.  I still need to add some grommets/rubber washers to prevent water ingress, I just have to wait for some of the correct size to arrive.  Inside the car you can access the nut on the back by simply popping the interior C pillar trims off and the wires can run straight down into the boot since it's open from the gutter all the way to the bottom of the wing.  Routing the wires is really easy with lots of space to work in.

29436692298_d5bf5bb89b_b.jpg20180709-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

43256893892_635e816ac8_b.jpg20180709-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

It's been pleasantly overcast and cool today so between other jobs I did what filler work I could before it got late enough that I had to get paint on.  The areas I've done are presentable but, like a few other small spots, will need me to go back later to make them perfect.  For now, I'm happy that the areas painted look smart.  The rear wing is lots better now there's no a hole in it.  Not really sure how I got overspray on the rear tyre, everything was covered up.

29436692188_2533094eb9_b.jpg20180709-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Top of the wing just over the side repeater had a dent.  You can't see it now, of course.

43256893392_f72bb71fda_b.jpg20180709-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The paint wasn't drying fast enough to mask so I did a rush job to just finish this corner.  I can redo the overspray bits when I've a bit more time.

29436692098_fef10fe977_b.jpg20180709-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Front end looks hugely better.  When I've finshed the wing-to-valance seam underneath I can get this all painted properly.  It's just nice having it look fairly uniform at last.

43256893172_3b55165149_b.jpg20180709-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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I can't for the life of me remember how a standard princess looks at the front but are you getting a ram air effect at higher speeds? It can lead to a weak mixture and stalling coming down to idle from speed.

 

Glad to see you making progress, I hope to see this tootling around in the flesh one day

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