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1980 Austin Princess - 21/01 Update


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2691 replies to this topic

#2671 OFFLINE   Mr_Bo11ox

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 10:48 PM

I must admit that when I was changing my Ambassador clutch back in the day it panned out exactly like this, I was sure that I could do it without dropping the engine. I couldn't obv but still spent ages trying.
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#2672 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 11:26 AM

I must admit that when I was changing my Ambassador clutch back in the day it panned out exactly like this, I was sure that I could do it without dropping the engine. I couldn't obv but still spent ages trying.

 

Four cylinder - no chance.

 

Six cylinder - yup. Despite being wider.

 

Issigonis must have been a frustrated gynaecologist and practiced painting his front hallway via the letterbox.

 

Only BMC/BL would end up with a state of affairs such as this. Disgraceful I say.


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#2673 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 11:35 AM

Issigonis had nothing to do with these awful wedge shaped things,or the allegro,or the marina...mmm seems theres a pattern emerging.



#2674 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 12:33 PM

Issigonis designed the 1800 power unit and it's weird arse about face clutch. It was to use the standard B Series block and crank with a flywheel bolted to the end, not spinning on a primary gear as per the Mini. Yet the Maxi engine was an Issigonnafail? design and the Princess/Allegro were basically improved/ruined (delete as appropriate) Issigonnawork? designs.


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#2675 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 12:47 PM

He didnt design the bodywork that shrouded it all to make it harder to work on though (unless the 1800/maxi was also a ballache,in which case i will gladly retract)



#2676 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 01:36 PM

The 18/22 was much, much easier to work on. Also much less rot prone and a better car all round although I do like an 18/85.

 

A good 2000 Princess does/did drive very well.


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#2677 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 04:02 PM

I'd rather work on this than a Mini, that's all I'm saying on the subject.

 

---

 

Today was all about the dirt and taking even more things out of the engine bay.  This has been both fortuitious and annoying.  I wanted to remove the scruffy steel coolant pipe that runs under the radiator both to tidy it up and for better dirt removal access.  The first annoyance was the old wire clips which, as is usual, needed cutting off since they're were seized completely solid.  I'll be replacing them with jubilee clips as I've done elsewhere when working on the car.

39675904272_3d4cfc1381_b.jpg20180115-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

As soon as I removed one of the clips that clamps the pipe to the radiator support brackets, water started coming out.  That's not a great thing to have happen and I knew what to expect.  Sure enough, there's a big hole caused by corrosion.  Even more annoying is my spare pipe I salvaged from the orange car has perforated in the same place to a lesser degree.   I'll either get one of the originals repaired or a new one made up in copper or stainless, dependant on cost.  I haven't got a pipe bender to DIY this so someone else can make it for me.  It's a normal failure on a Princess this one, I've seen a few other cars with the same issue.

38809054105_ffebc415fd_b.jpg20180115-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

After that and moving a few things out of the way, it was the tedious chore of removing the grease.  It did look like underseal until I started cleaning it off and found that it's very clearly old engine oil and road grime so at least it wasn't too tough going to remove.  There's a few areas where the paint has come off and surface corrosion has started so I'll get those bits dealt with and repainted while I'm in doing the rest of it.  I'll also go around with some thinners  on a rag to get rid of as much of the rubbish overspray that's all over the engine bay which will go some way to cleaning things up and making it all that bit more uniform.  Happily I haven't uncovered any horrors,  just bits that need cosmetic fettling.

39675903682_372c8dbf58_b.jpg20180115-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

39706922851_6d92e5c80f_b.jpg20180115-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

39706922231_ac2c85fe1d_b.jpg20180115-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

39706922081_e71ffcc311_b.jpg20180115-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

It's looking much nicer in there now and will be a more pleasant place to work once I'm done.  Made a start on the clutch housing but didn't get far, that's fairly disgusting in comparison and will need a fair bit of effort to sort out.


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#2678 OFFLINE   Noel Tidybeard

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 10:29 PM

might i suggest citreon cx mirrors they seem to be so cool that even mclaren used them on the f1


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#2679 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 04:54 PM

You may suggest CX mirrors.  I've never seen an affordable set and they're not really right for what I want to do, but they do look like a good mirror.

 

---

 

Useful things arrived in the post today in the form of many, many seals and gaskets.

24876279937_dd07519c7a_b.jpg20181701-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Before I can fit those, I need to finish tidying up the engine bay, mostly by getting rid of the woeful  overpainting that has been coming off every time I clean up in the engine bay.  Now is the best time to get rid of it.  I'm not sure what paint was used, it's  quite thin in most places and applied by brush.  There's no prep underneath but it's pretty stubborn to remove.  I was going to use thinners initially but decided on 400 grit paper so I could deal with the rust blebs at the same time and prep the surfaces for fresh paint.

38847220235_b0aaba82d5_b.jpg20181701-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

After a while of sanding I'd got about a third of the surfaces cleaned up and ready for the next stage.  Nice and smooth now without the multiple paint layers so hopefully I won't get issues with paint reactions when I put the fresh top coat on.

39036597024_08dbb128ec_b.jpg20181701-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

There was a suspiciously thick bit of paint around this area and some surface corrosion.  Hit it with a wire wheel to reveal nice clean metal so I'm not really sure what's going on in this area.  There's also  quite a lot of little dents and paint chips on this arch,  I'm guessing from a less than careful engine removal in the past when the clutch was last done since all the damage lines up with bits on the pulley side of the engine.

24876279517_226b48ae08_b.jpg20181701-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

For ease of access, I removed the heater hoses and unbolted the brake lines.  I didn't want to remove the brake lines completely, I'm trying to avoid turning this into restoration work since it's only supposed to be a freshen up while the engine is out.  It will all be done more properly if I ever get the funds together for a  proper repaint in the future.   Just seems silly not to tackle all these scruffy areas while I have good access.  All the little bits of corrosion, bad paint and such were cleaned back and flatted down to an acceptable degree before getting a good dose of rust converter.

24876279737_f480bfbc92_b.jpg20181701-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I'm going to have to remove the brake servo and clutch master  cylinder to do the paint in that area and since I can do that with the engine back in I'm leaving that corner alone for now.  I'll do the inner arch this side before the engine goes back in as it too has that horrible overpaint that needs flatting off, I just didn't have enough time to do that today.

38847219995_c7fa344e6b_b.jpg20181701-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

You can see where I've been today at least.  Took a few hours because it's all fiddly and has to be done by hand since I don't want to go back to bare metal on this.

38847220175_49bcbf2976_b.jpg20181701-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Tomorrow I'll get the engine mounts removed,  degrease anything I've missed and hopefully get the rest of the paint prep completed.  I'm going to be slowed down by paint drying times too, it's not too cold for painting, it's just cold enough that drying times are longer than usual.  At least there's not really any rust to speak of on the areas left to deal with now.  The other job I'll need to do is replacing the coolant hose and I'm going to try using the rubber coolant hose we have with two connectors to link it to the existing rubber hoses instead of getting a custom metal one made.  It's not a high pressure system so the clamps and brackets should be sufficient to keep a rubber hose in place and since I've already got the bits to do this the cost is  £0 and there's no need to wait on parts or things to be made.


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#2680 ONLINE   Tadhg Tiogar

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 05:16 PM

You may suggest CX mirrors.  I've never seen an affordable set and they're not really right for what I want to do, but they do look like a good mirror.....


With a CX-style mirror body going for about £150 each (more if aimed at TVR / Lotus / MVS Venturi), that's probably not a practical proposition.
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#2681 OFFLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 06:22 PM

You are brave, painting at this time of year. I never bother til springtime, mine either blooms badly or gets microblisters!

#2682 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 07:44 PM

Don't know that I'd risk it outdoors, but in the unit the temperature stays fairly stable and doesn't tend to go below freezing so I can (and have) risk it.  There' s no way this job can wait until Spring, I need to be driving it, not making it pretty.


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#2683 OFFLINE   Mr_Bo11ox

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 07:45 PM

Nice work Vulg!!

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#2684 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 19 January 2018 - 05:27 PM

There's still snow, but it's not snowing, and the snow was melting so I chanced a few hours at the unit today since I'm desperate to get the Princess mobile again.  MoT is in April and I feel like I've barely driven it since the last one!  Should be an easy pass then, right... right?  Probably.  I removed the air horns and the wiring loom that was in the way.  Going to need some fresh P clips and screws to put the loom back in as the old ones mostly fell to bits on removal, at least removing them allowed me to get to the little rust blebs underneath them and deal with those.  I remembered to take the car's original head in with me so I could get the little cam cover bracket off  as the replacement head doesn't have one.  Once I've cleaned it up I'll probably redo it in VHT silver so it blends in with the aluminium head nicely.

39750183702_0c505ce04f_b.jpg20180119-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Removed all the engine mounts, laid them out on the box lid so I know which ones go where, and they'll get degreased before being fitted.  Apart from the big steel washer, nothing needs painting on these since they're lovely cast aluminium and big chunky rubber bushes.  I'll just scrub them clean and repaint the washers black so  they look nice and smart again.

39750183412_c20c9e4087_b.jpg20180119-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I gave the thinners a go on what paint was left to remove and it made the job a bit quicker than what I'd done already, mainly because the remaining overpaint was very thin.  Dosed up the freshly cleaned areas with rust converter which stopped me being able to paint the front sections today.  It already looks much better, just for being cleaned of dirt and flakey paint.

39750183042_34ccb9c327_b.jpg20180119-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Temperature was touch-and-go as to whether or not I could risk repainting the bulk of the engine bay once I'd finished the laborious task of masking off the  brake lines.  I decided not to mask off the displacer adaptors since they're bare steel and a little extra protection certainly wouldn't hurt, but I did  mask off the schrader valves so at least it looks like I give half a hoot about this job.  Then it was a tentative spraying of zinc rich primer (which I've found is great at slowing down rust on BL stuff compared to regular primer) to see if the temperature was okay before risking some top coat.  The paint behaved fairly normally going down but the temperature had dropped a lot by the time I was finished so I may come to this tomorrow and find it's all a mess.  Time will tell.

39750182702_c3a3dd06f8_b.jpg20180119-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

39750182402_8d4c689295_b.jpg20180119-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

28003419869_2e9b6ed70a_b.jpg20180119-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

It looks so much better now.  When I unbundle the newspaper from that corner it's going to stick out like a sore thumb, I'm just not prepared to dismantle my braking system to do that area at the moment, especially since it can be done once the engine is back in.


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#2685 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 06:24 PM

Fortunately when I checked on the paint today it wasn't too bad.  There's a couple of less-than-perfect spots, but that's okay, this is only a freshen up.  I gave the whole engine bay a warm over with a heat gun before applying the final coat of beige and more heat gun just to help things along.  For the most part this worked really well and with the heater on in the unit and temperatures above freezing for a few hours it meant the paint was even hard enough to start on the next phase: assembly.

 

First up, let's get those engine mounts and brackets degreased.  A thankless, disgusting job if ever there was one.  Definitely worth doing, all the same, since it will make maintenance and leak spotting much easier.

39090545884_0bf27f8ab0_b.jpg20180120-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

There's a handful of rubber items I need to de-paint which I'll do at home as I'd left the thinners there instead of taking them to the unit with me.  Won't take long to do and will improve the look of these considerably.  The horseshoe shaped piece is the rubber insert for the cold air intake pipe bracket while the two little acorn type things are the bonnet bumpstops.

38901538515_bd73249031_b.jpg20180120-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Lots of time spend with degreaser, a toothbrush, the desk grinder wire wheel thingy and VHT silver to get all four engine mounts and bracketry nice and smart again.  I opted not to repaint the washers on the engine mounts because they look okay enough next to the rubber mounts as they are.  The cam cover bracket spruced up really easily.  Wiring loom was rerouted loosely, I couldn't find the P-clips to replace the ones that broke.  I may do a little bit of extra wrapping to tidy up a couple of wires and attempt to improve the look of the wiring in the engine bay, it's fairly messy on the O series cars as standard, especially when compared to an earlier B series car.

38901538325_2768b6d1d2_b.jpg20180120-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Unmasked everything, reinstated the heater hoses with new jubilees, the washer bottle and pump, and the large cold air intake pipe and coolant pipe  bracket that I repainted in VHT silver like the rest.

39090545784_ea6a808410_b.jpg20180120-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I'm actually quite proud of this job, for a 'quick freshen up' it looks so much better than I expected.  Even the brake component corner isn't as terrible as I feared it might be.

38901538145_cefbbdbd93_b.jpg20180120-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

We're now on reassembly, which is always much more enjoyable than the pulling apart and cleaning bit.  I'm hoping the job goes fairly smoothly from this point and I'm excited to see what the engine bay will look like with everything all properly cleaned up and presented nicely.

 


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#2686 ONLINE   320touring

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 06:52 PM

Top work - I reckon the morris would benefit from similar once I have floors in it:)


Satisfying being able to see progress with every bit you do, ain't it
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#2687 OFFLINE   plasticvandan

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:01 PM

Very nice,I would be tempted to clean what you can see around the servo and touch in with a brush to finish it off.
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#2688 OFFLINE   Mr_Bo11ox

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:04 PM

Good stuff Vulgarelli
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PIGEONZ NEST

CHECK OUT MY AWARD-WINNING SHITE-FIXING BLOG HERE

"THE 2.3 POWERTRAIN IS A SILENT IS AS A FISH, AND IT PULLS LIKE A GREAT"
"The engine has airbrushed skulls on it"

"Car shows are full of mentals talking tosh"

"I promised her I would waxoyl her Polo"


#2689 OFFLINE   Bren

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:05 PM

Great job. Nothing worse than a grotty engine bay - and no excuse for this on a modern as there are acres of plastic.

You are doing a grand job.
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#2690 OFFLINE   Shep Shepherd

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:06 PM

You make things look so easy - I'd run a mile at the prospect of doing a job like that, even on The Volvo.


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#2691 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:22 PM

Very nice,I would be tempted to clean what you can see around the servo and touch in with a brush to finish it off.


It is tempting, but I'll be pulling that all out to remove the black paint anyway so I might as well do it properly then.

#2692 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted Yesterday, 04:04 PM

Mike and I braved the cold to see if we could make some progress on this job.  We were hampered somewhat by the heater running out of fuel so didn't get massively far.  Importantly, we did get the old clutch off which was fairly easy, here it is on the left next to the new one.

39817705621_06a136fd94_b.jpg20180121-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Release bearing off too (old on the right).

24947462587_f2595770f3_b.jpg20180121-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

It is fair to say the clutch is dead, almost down to the rivets in fact.

39817705231_25b72c067f_b.jpg20180121-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Other things of note is that the release bearing has significant amounts of play in it and the rattle that the old clutch made when the hydraulics were bled was the splined hub being loose.  I got  just about as much use out of the old clutch as I think was possible as a result, so this was definitely an unavoidable job.  One nice thing on checking the new clutch over was that it's stamped "Fly Wheel Side" so you can't get it in the wrong way around.  I've never seen this before and it's super sensible!

39817704941_28de5964c5_b.jpg20180121-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Got the new kit bolted loosely in place once I'd checked that it absolutely definitely matched the old one.  I've got a little bit more fiddling about to do before we align and tighten this up fully but at least now it's ready to go for the next stage.  Mike spent as much time as the temperature would allow to clean and wash out the inside of the clutch housing, which I don't have a photo of, and we called it quits when the snow started coming down along with the temperature!

24947461907_6763b63bc1_b.jpg20180121-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

One item added to the shopping list is a new rubber  boot for the clutch arm that goes through the housing.  This old one is not only covered in overspray but also  degraded and crumbly, it barely keeps anything out.  If anyone has one up for grabs, please let me know.

39817704711_e895759df7_b.jpg20180121-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

39817704571_6b61b7468d_b.jpg20180121-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Then it was time to down tools and go home because the unit was icy cold and the snow was getting heavier.  We didn't want to end up with cars stuck in the icy car park outside the unit so Mike and I made a hasty retreat home.  Rover's pretty good in the snow and ice really.  It would benefit from some winter tyres, the ones fitted aren't so great when the temperature gets as low as it is today.

24947461647_ef897e29da_b.jpg20180121-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

24947461137_5b4390535b_b.jpg20180121-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr


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