Made the executive decision to leave the front wing alone for now. After considering how difficult it is to take on and off because of having to take the door off, I decided it would be wiser at the moment to repair my original driver's door and have it painted and ready to go on before doing this wing. This way I won't have to then remove and refit the door again after doing the wing, I can do both at the same time. So today I made a start on that. Limited time again because I only have 2-4 hours a day spare on work days so I didn't get into the welding. Also, there was almost no filler on this panel but that's because there was so much paint on it you didn't need filler. In places there were five resprays evident not including the quick tart up I'd done with the purple pre-MoT. Happily, overall the door is in reasonable shape (for a Princess door on a car that lives outdoors all year round).
20180516-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
20180516-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
Removing the lock escutcheon was a bit annoying, got there in the end when I figured out which bits came apart and which didn't. The rust staining under the waist trim turned out to be the usual Princess problem, something that's much more advanced on the orange door. A fiddly repair, but not too daunting. Further down the panel there's also a tiny hole about the size of a stonechip, which was a little strange, hopefully that will just fill with a quick blob of weld like doing a trim hole.
20180516-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
Leading edge was much better than anticipated. This was still wearing mostly just factory paint and is in good shape so I've only attacked the obvious problem areas here rather than stripping it right back to bare metal. Nice to find a good solid bit of door where I expected problems.
20180516-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
Equally, the lower edge which I had thought was really bad, was actually fairly honest. There's not a great deal that needs replacing here and even the historic repair in there is done well. Whoever replaced that square of door bothered to cut out the rot and shape the patch piece well enough that I'll leave it alone, no point undoing adequate work. The trouble with these doors is that the drain hole isn't the lowest point water sits and because of the way they're made, you can't put drain holes in lower down. The only solution, really, is to fill the bottom of the doors with cavity wax until it's coming out of the drainholes and seams and hope it never dries out enough to trap moisture.
20180516-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
The only negative surprise was on the trailing edge under the door latch where there's always been a blob that looked like thick paint. It was actually filler. There's a strengthening panel inside this part of the door which looks to be unaffected beyond a bit of surface rust. Rather than chop out what must have been very small holes back when this was bodged, whoever did it decided to put enough filler on that it nearly smoothed out the panel pressing and ignore it. Worked pretty well until I poked it, in all fairness.
20180516-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr
Now I have to decide whether to do the outer skin or the inner frame first. I don't want to lose my reference points on either but I'm not in a position to be putting the door on and off the car repeatedly to check fit. It's also not a job I'm skilled enough to do with the door on the car. I'll probably make a template of the outer skin, repair the inner frame after cutting away what I need to of the outer skin, then repair the outer skin, seal, and paint. I'm going to try and take it slower on this repair as I want to do better than I did with the other door I repaired which ideally needs the sill edge redoing as it's ever so slightly off. I want to get good at doing door bottom repairs, the sort of cars I like owning always need this job doing so it would be a useful skill to master.