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1980 Austin Princess


vulgalour

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125/10 for the change to the thread title :D

 

for radio fitting Staaag also has a non standard hole for the radio

 

two fixes are 

 

https://robsport.co.uk/index.php/online-shop/shop-stag/product/6922-radio-fitting-panel-for-centre-console

 

and

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag-Modern-CD-Radio-Mounting-Fascia-Plate-Black-satin-finish/162956131818?hash=item25f0f13dea:g:Ck4AAOSwU4FaQq-C

 

for the two knob type radio head units you should aready have the bits you need with the old head unit

 

post-3439-0-52083500-1523367899_thumb.jpg

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That's what used to be fitted and it was rubbish.  You couldn't properly secure it because of the unique (rubbish) way in which the Princess dashboard is made so you just ended up with a head unit that would always wobble and gradually slide off-straight.  I don't want to go back to that.

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Trolley-block method is just to jack the door up to the desired location?  Presumably bending the hinge a tiny bit in the desired direction to counteract saggy hinges?

Correct, just don't overdo it. Works well if the hinge mountings are rust free.

They used a fancy bar to do it on the assembly lines. Probably still do.

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Richard:  It had a metal plate and braces on the back, it's just a poor design and difficult to keep solid.  Doesn't help that mine's been in and out of the car a bajillion times.

 

May have found something approaching a solution though in the form of this little box that is very close to what I had in mind. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMSL-SA-36A-Plus-Bluetooth-Digital-Hi-Fi-Stereo-Amplifier-AMP-USB-CoaxialOptical/123048155782

 

It's not terribly expensive and is compact and presumably quite light.  Don't need the Bluetooth functionality so the aerial can go and it would need a different power adaptor but otherwise it's the right sort of thing for what I'd like to do.  Mike's suggestion, that one, on browsing about and trying to find a solution to the imaginary device I've conjured in my head.

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Hate to rain on your parade, but I don't think the boot lamp switch is the problem or at least not the only problem. The only way a faulty switch by itself could cause a fuse to blow is if it was switching the live supply to the lamp, which it isn't, and shorting to earth.

Since the lamp supply is permanently live (via the fuse) and the switch connects the other side of the lamp to earth to complete the circuit, an open-circuit switch would mean that the light does not come on and a short-circuit switch would mean that the light is on all the time. Neither of these things would blow a correctly-rated fuse if the boot light itself is OK.

If disconnecting the wire from the switch cures the short I would suggest that the problem is with the boot light itself. The only thing which springs to mind immediately is that the lamp has developed a short circuit across the bulb, or the bulb itself is short-circuited, and the switch is not turning off, either because it too is short circuit or more likely not being pressed in enough to be disconnected when the boot is shut. Hence it is the lamp or the bulb which is providing the high-current path to earth and blowing the fuse.

Try removing the bulb from the boot light and measuring the resistance across the bulb. It should be low (a few ohms) but not zero. If it is zero, try another bulb. Also measure the resistance across the bulb contacts with the bulb removed. This should be open circuit. If it low or zero ohms the problem is with the bulb holder.

Good luck!

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That does make more sense of it.  For now I'm just leaving the boot light disconnected so it's not causing me issues, especially since it's not a vital bit of kit and doesn't really illuminate anything that well when it does work.  We'll fix it properly when/if we upgrade the boot lighting in the future.

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Would this be suitable for tunes? Fifteen quid delivered.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Kentiger-V10-Bluetooth-Hi-fi-Class-ab-Stereo-Super-Bass-Audio-Power-Amplifier/2254345478?iid=361958832265&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49131%26meid%3D7c2be3bf6360444d81a1c13403ea99f3%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D123048155782%26itm%3D361958832265&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

12V input so powered straight off battery, takes USB and MicroSD (plus Aux input). Has a little display and FANTASTIC KNOBS. Actually looks pleasingly retro.

 

Here's a video of a similar one - some seem to take Aux on the front, some the rear, some are SD and some are Micro SD.

I'm sure you could disable those bloody awful LEDs

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Interior is back together again and, because of UV damage to the crochet rainbow seat covers, a different rear seat blanket is installed.  All the tops of the seat covers had fading and, in some places, degradation of the yarn itself.  The new blanket shouldn't be as badly affected since it's a different yarn that seems to be more UV stable, but I will be replacing it with something in a better colour for the interior at some point, maybe orange or tiger print...  Rear seat cover is actually essential, Princesses really suffer from bad UV damage to the top of the rear bench and while this one isn't too bad, the top of it is faded and I don't want it to get any worse.  Refitting the centre console was an absolute chore, the screw holes seemed to keep moving, but it's all in now and tidier as a result.  I need to give everything a proper deep clean at some point, I've noticed the handbrake in particular is a bit grubby.

 

26543046907_5802c0904c_b.jpg20180412-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

41371699402_5f32749472_b.jpg20180412-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

26543046597_4137f80088_b.jpg20180412-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Had a go at sorting out the very annoying driver's door today which has been sagging since I bought the car.  Sometimes the sag seems to be caused by the hinge pin moving too much, sometimes it doesn't, I've never really got to the bottom of it.  However, Des suggested I try jacking the door up with a block of wood which may reset things that might just have drooped with age and use.  On the passenger side that worked moderately well and the door frame no longer contacts the B pillar at the top, the panel gap is a bit more even, and it shuts a bit better.  It's not perfect by any means, but it's okay.

27583970218_8f7d8fa9bf_b.jpg20180414-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The driver's side was more problematic.  I repeated what I did on the passenger side and got some small improvement on fitment, but it was still catching on the B pillar at the top because of the door sagging.

40561673125_2b356c8696_b.jpg20180414-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

27583969018_ffb2bfd428_z.jpg20180414-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The bottom of this door is a bit tender, has been all the while I've owned it, and when I moved the jack and wood for a better place to lift it, the block of wood vanished inside the door.  Looks like the tender bit is actually rotten now and it needs a repair to the frame and door skin.  I've got a spare door and some steel so it's repairable, but it made the realignment a little more difficult.

40561672205_7154247b70_b.jpg20180414-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Not quite as effective having the block to the front of the door as I can't really lift and bend things to counteract the sag as effectively.

40740784364_98f13399c5_b.jpg20180414-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I got the door close to shutting without catching the B-pillar and then resorted to moving the latch on the door and the pin on the B pillar to help me out.

40740783764_5ea676d956_b.jpg20180414-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The door gap is at least even now but the whole door seems to be pushed back about 2mm or so too far.

40740792674_eb7f6130ab_b.jpg20180414-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I'm going to drop the door off, knock the hinges forwards a couple of millimetres and refit the door.  I'll pull the wing off when I do this too so that I can repair it properly, a job I've been putting off for ages.  I don't think this issue is from the damage it got in my care because the door was like this when I got it, I think this is a more historic problem, and a little persuasion with a large hammer should see it right again.

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I don't want to paint the pillar until I'm sure the door isn't going to catch on it and rub the paint off, like it has on the passenger side.  One small job seems to lead into much larger small jobs to put this right, it's super annoying.  While fettling today I was really unhappy with the line of the replaced sill and the bottom of the repaired rear door, the panel gap is all over the place.  It's fixable, of course, just really time consuming to get right as all cosmetic jobs tend to be.  So I'm going to start on the most annoying bit, which is the driver's door, and work my way around the car from there, fixing as I go.  Seems the most sensible course.

 

In better news, the new windscreen seals are now approved for production - it's been a slog getting the right profile - with a lead time of 5 weeks, so hopefully I'll have that to fit to replace my leaking seal by June when I'll no doubt uncover even more things I don't know about that need fixing.

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  It's not perfect by any means, but it's okay.

 

 

Glad to see you've adopted the British Leyland ethos, life shall now get easier.

I wonder if an engine crane and sling or ratchet strap / roof joist through the window frame of the crusty door would be better. 

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Getting that door to fit properly with everything else could take many lifetimes.

BL had millions of attempts at the good-panel-fit carry on, and their scientists eventually declared "it's fucking impossible".

Am not specifically knocking BL.

 

Have you considered taking a skim off the upright edge of the door with a grinder? Not too much, just enough to avoid contact, and done neatly. Then black paint, as mentioned above. (Serious reply).

In the scheme of things no one's going to notice (except us, hahahahaha! :-)), and it's just part of the character of the car.

"Good panel fit on a BL car????".

- Boring, dull, dull, dull.

 

Means more time available to do other jobs.

 

Or just chop the top doorframes off and make cool pillarless doors. Although that may unintentionally also lead to windowless doors. But they'd close ok without striking at the top.

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Des:  I wouldn't want to risk it, the window frame on these doors isn't that strong, even if I could get the crane or whatever high enough to actually lift it.  "It'll do" does seem the most practical approach.

 

Jee:  Shaving bits off the doors doesn't fix the problem.  The panel gaps aren't the annoyance so much as the frame catching on the B pillar and the door not latching properly when you try and shut it, both problems that I've fixed enough that I don't need several slamming attempts to shut the door now.

 

I'm digging the orange one out in a bit and swapping that on so I can repair the beige one off the car, doing the bottom edge repair is going to be lots easier with the door off the car. and I don't really want to work on the Rover today.

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Setting the door-latch position can be a bit of an art. Maybe there's a body-shop procedure beyond trial & error that some of the specialist car-bods on here know about. Or something on youtube?

 

It's very satisfying when a door just clicks shut.

And most annoying when the one on the other side has to be slammed. Or opens on a bumpy corner (a mate had a knackered Mk4 Cortina Ghia with a rear pass door like that and he didn't always remember to tell passengers about it).

 

If the orange door is better, or a better fit, obv worth going plan-B and just keeping it on and repainting it in the current Vulgcess colours. Then fit the existing one into the nearest skip and see how it likes that.

 

Black front seats and orange carpet looking good BTW. Carpet was well worth the time and effort, these things always a little bit 'experimental.

Watched a Brewer Owld-Ahht-Yer-Aand early this morning. He had a gorgeous met blue Fiat Dino 2400 coupe with black leather seats and orange carpets. The original factory-orange carpets, in great condition. Looked fantastic.

He got Ed / Edd to swap in good quality custom-made ones. Very nice handcrafted ones. But in black.

Noooooooooooooooohhhh !!.

 

 

Owld-Ahht-Yer-Face Brewer.

- SLAP !

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This job went surprisingly well.  I believe this is the first time I've taken the driver's door off.  Initially I did tape the door switch down but the tape wasn't strong enough, so I disconnected the bulb instead, didn't want a flat battery or, worse, a melted interior light.

27604782348_a846db100f_b.jpg20180415-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

With the door off I could check the hinges out.  There's no play in the bottom hinge, but there is a little in the top one, so I knocked the hinge pin out.  Annoyingly, the replacement pins I've got are all bottom hinge pins which I can't really use in the top hinges and you can see on this one that there is some wear.  It's not enough to cause the sagging/alignment issues I'm having so I just cleaned it up, greased it, and put it back in after knocking the top hinge forwards a bit to counteract the sag.

27604782448_c994651c46_b.jpg20180415-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Realistically, I need to whack both hinges forwards a smidge more with a larger hammer than I had to hand today and that should sort out the alignment but I'll also have to pull the wing off because it's quite tight to the door at the moment due to it being slightly deformed.  First fit of the spare door was quite positive.  The gaps are more even all around now and the sag is much reduced.

27604782068_b381b56678_b.jpg20180415-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

41433773832_3f5653603e_b.jpg20180415-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

You can see here where the swage line of the wing is pushed in too far, closing up the gap.  I can sort this out when I remove the wing and repair it, the panel just needs a little massaging to sort out the clearance.  Surprisingly the door doesn't catch the wing, though it does come very close!

27604781718_eeaabb37a1_b.jpg20180415-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The spare door is probably a bit far gone to repair having looked at it with a critical eye compared to the one that came off.  There's rust in places that are going to be difficult to repair and several stress fractures in the frame and outer skin.  It's also slightly deformed on the lower edge, so it doesn't line up quite as well as it might with the car.  I can repair it if I have to, and I may well do so because having a spare panel is useful.  For now it's ideal for filling the hole while I repair my better door and with Princess doors being quite difficult to find in any condition, I do have to work with what I've got.

40762430054_a8f8c17bc7_b.jpg20180415-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

After a little more fettling I had the door fitted and annoyingly even though it's in worse condition than the one I'm repairing, it fits the car better!  The lock works with the key I've got which saved me swapping the more awkward linkages over, it just looks dreadful.

41475984331_8ee5a3ebb2_b.jpg20180415-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

On screwing the window guides back to the door frame I was a bit confused at first as to why the window would drop happily enough but wouldn't go up evenly.  Turns out that one of the guides for the window regulator rollers has rotted away completely so the back edge of the window doesn't lift evenly and tries to drop into the door.  Because this is likely to be a chore and I don't want to go for the window out of habit, I didn't refit the window winder.  If nothing else, that'll be good motivation to get the door I removed repaired and back on the car.

27604781188_576c77e733_b.jpg20180415-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I reattached the weather strip/stainless trim and the door mirror to complete the day's work and loaded the spare door into Mike's estate.  I hope to be tackling the repairs and repainting the door I removed over the course of this week.  If I can find a new or really good pair of upper hinge pins that would be neat too as every little will help with alignment.

27604780538_b485ed2fba_b.jpg20180415-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

 

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It's shorter and lighter so I wouldn't have the wobbly issue so much.  I also thought from the picture initially that it was smaller than standard DIN, which again would have been easier to fit, potentially in the lower centre console.  However, on looking up stats on these units most are only rated at 30W (per speaker, max 4 speakers) so it's actually a little underpowered as a complete unit for what I'm thinking of doing.  I'm looking at fitting something in the 50-60W range instead so I'm back to the drawing board a little bit on this one.

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